How are you 5th Gen brake calipers doing?

Replace the brake lines

My 2004 SR5 went through two sets of calipers. The first was the factory original on the passenger-front-side where one of the two pistons was seized around 160K (who knows how long it was seized before that as I really did not notice any braking issues). The tire shop replaced the one caliper when went I went in for Tires.

About 12K miles later I went in to a trusted, local mechanic for a brake job as the rotors were warped. The local mechanic said I had the front passenger brake caliper seized. I told him that was the same story the tire shop gave me a year ago and the caliper was a new replacement. Once he heard that the next logical choice was to replace the brake lines that get to each wheel after the metal lines. After he swapped those out, he said the rubber lines were shot on the inside. I did get a new pair (both front) of calipers along with the new brake lines.

I don't think I got "snowed" by any of the two shops. Each replaced caliper did look shiny, new and clean as I did take the front wheels off and inspected them to make sure.

You may want to change the rubber brake line hoses to the calipers along with whatever calipers you end up with.
 
at 50k miles my front calipers needed replacement (2013 4runner). Agressive driver, salty roads nearly 6 months/year though. You can get rebuilts on ebay for less than 140$
 
No problems with 4th and 5th gen callers or brakes

My 03 with 212k is to going strong with original rotors and calipers. My 13 is all original at 20k. It's got to be the warm, dry climate.
 
Tried installing new rotors and brake pads on my 2010 SR5 last night. Got to the driver's side front caliper and one of the pistons is seized. New calipers are on their way!

Looks like the drivers side front caliper seizing is a pretty common issue.
 
Tried installing new rotors and brake pads on my 2010 SR5 last night. Got to the driver's side front caliper and one of the pistons is seized. New calipers are on their way!

Looks like the drivers side front caliper seizing is a pretty common issue.

I wouldn't call it common. 4th Gen, common. 5th Gen, not common.
 
Reviving this thread, hoping someone can chime in if they've experienced this.

Replaced pads and rotors 2k ago

Used TRD pads but hated the dust and replaced with the Akebono/OEM mostly due to brake squeal last week. I also replaced the pins and retainers.

I thought the pads were the issue since I didn't notice any issues with the pistons. I took everything apart last night and tested the pistons and they seemed fine on both sides.

The squeal is constant at low speeds, and then sometimes cyclic with no brake applied. Same sounds when braking as well. Sometimes no sound at all.

Any help would be much appreciated. I'd hate to buy a new caliper unless it's the only fix.
 
My drivers side is pulling again.

Replaced a frozen oem caliper with a 5th Gen Rock Auto, Centrics 14144588 11/22/2016.

Now I have to remember to replace it with a like kind.

LEXUS GX460 2010-2018
LEXUS GX470 2003-2009
TOYOTA 4RUNNER 2010-2018
TOYOTA SEQUOIA 2001-2007
 
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Brake calipers

I have a 2010 4R Trail. Drive in Louisiana (flat), but take it to Colorado 2 times each year for a month each time. Drive in the mountains and off-road. No problems with the calipers. Replaced the original pads (only because I was going to Colorado) at 120,000 miles and still had 40% left. Now have 140,000 miles with no problems.
 
Hey everyone, I'm a 4th Gen guy looking for some info from you 5th Gen guys. There's a writeup in the 4th Gen section where someone took 5th Gen brake calipers and installed them on their 4th Gen in hopes to alleviate the horrible seized brake caliper problem we have. I searched to try and find if you guys have the same problem, but my searches didn't turn up much (which is a good thing I guess). Anyway, have any of you had problems with frozen/seized calipers?

The calipers between the two look almost identical (the pistons on the 5th Gen are sliiiightly larger), so it makes it hard to believe there was a major design update to help prevent the problem, but hey, if they work they work.

I appreciate any feedback. I have a seized caliper (my fifth one) and I'm thinking of doing the swap if it may prevent it from happening again.

Hi Skott,

My 2012 Limited only had 13,475 miles on it on 6/6/16; only four years old. The Calipers never seized, but the hardware (guide pins) did freeze-up due to sitting in my driveway for a week at a time. The way that I noticed something was wrong was, when at highway speeds; 75-80 mph and slowed it down, I got a trembling steering wheel; characteristic of warped rotors as a result of the front calipers/pads locking up or dragging the pads on the rotors at all times!

I took it in to my mechanic and told him to pull the wheels... "I need the front rotors turned!". He checked the front brakes and showed me the fatigued, blueish color rotors and completely worn pads. I asked him why are this vehicle's brakes worn at 13,475 miles? He said: "It's NOT the calipers that are causing the trouble, but the hardware/guide-pins got rusted from just sitting".

"I cannot turn the rotors because there's not enough meat on them to remove that wobble, I did a "Run-out" on them; they'll need to be replaced!". This may not be exactly what the OP started this thread about, but I feel it is related because the pads stopped gliding back off of the rotors, which created the same result! 'Best to you',

rig
 
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"...I thought the pads were the issue since I didn't notice any issues with the pistons. I took everything apart last night and tested the pistons and they seemed fine on both sides.

The squeal is constant at low speeds, and then sometimes cyclic with no brake applied. Same sounds when braking as well. Sometimes no sound at all..."

Hey Justin,

Don't forget that some of this vehicle's 4wheel-drive features actually use the brakes to function e.g., VSC, A-trac/traction-control...etc.

rig, cheers!
 
Hey Justin,

Don't forget that some of this vehicle's 4wheel-drive features actually use the brakes to function e.g., VSC, A-trac/traction-control...etc.

rig, cheers!

This is going to sound real dumb, which is why I didn't update...
The service tech gave me a measurement of 6 or so mm on the rear pads, but they were probably closer to 2mm since that was my squealing issue. In the truck the sound was very deceiving and seemed to be coming from the front. :shrug:
 
This is going to sound real dumb, which is why I didn't update...
The service tech gave me a measurement of 6 or so mm on the rear pads, but they were probably closer to 2mm since that was my squealing issue. In the truck the sound was very deceiving and seemed to be coming from the front. :shrug:

Yeah Justin,

I've already explained my situation with the front Guide-pins rusting out; causing the front brakes to wear out prematurely, at 13,000 miles, truck was four yrs old. But the rear pads (unlike the vehicles of yesteryear), will wear out in half or a third the time/mileage of the front brakes; due to the electronic 4-wheel drive controls. When I had the tires rotated, I had the mechanic check the rear pads. It's a good thing I did.

I only had maybe one or two mm (tops) left on the rear pads before the "wear-indicators//Squealers" started to rub the rotors. So I ordered a new set of rear pads online: ebay, a legitimate company by the name of U.S. DIRECT PARTS or Hart! I went with the OEM Ceramic pads; they also offer them in Semi-metallic... I also ordered the hardware kit just to be safe!

The rear brakes are different than the front brakes. The "Guide-pins" are packed with a lubricant and sealed in a rubber pin sleeve so they don't rust. I paid $29 bucks for the pads, and the hardware was $9 bucks! Hart offers "FREE PRIORITY S&H"! 888/801-2790. I installed the rears in my driveway using the factory bottle jack in the cargo area, and it took me about one hour 15 minutes on the first one, and about 45 minutes for the other!

They also sell performance rotors for our 4Runners; but I didn't need anything like that. I noticed the great control over the quick braking RIGHT AWAY! I mean this thing stops like never before, and I didn't even buffer or turn the rotors, just threw on the new pads and I achieved Excellent braking from just doing that! Hope this help's anyone who's needing to replace the brakes; front or the rears! 'Best to you',

rig
 
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97K miles and no issues...replaced rotors and brake pads (almost on second set) and they are great with zero noise too! (unlike the squeaky OEM pads/rotors)
How am I on a second set of rotors at 60k? What do you recommend I replace them with?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Thumping Calipers?

I was having an issue with my front brakes. Just about 4 months after installing new rotors and pads, I was getting a significant shaking of the steering wheel while braking. I thought - how could I need pads/rotors already!?!

On the front passenger side, the outside pad looked warped/burned (see photo). The calipers looked fine and one of the pistons had gotten so hot, that any rust had been burned off. The pistons retracted easily and the brakes worked fine. I haven't noticed any thumping noise/vibrations yet. Thoughts on what caused this?

bees_by_the_sea-albums-issues-picture54583-20190222-123810-2-b.jpg
 
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2014 SR5 with 166K miles. Left rear brake had uneven pad wear at 145K miles. Front edge of both pads worn down. I took apart and cleaned and lubed the slide pins on the caliper and put it back on. I should take a look to see how they're wearing.
 
I think it is a function of climate. I live in the snow belt here in Boston, with lots of salt on the roads. Salt plus aluminum brake caliper housing plus steel piston = battery (dissimilar metals corrosion).

I've gone through so many calipers on my 4th gen that I've lost count.

Have you done your own work on the brake calipers for the 5th Gen? They are not aluminum.
 
my front passenger caliper was staring to seize at ~10k miles. swapped out with stoptech big brakes with 6 piston calipers up front hah.
 

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