How do my LBJs look?

[eddielasvegas]

So a recent post about LBJs (thanks [MENTION=10950]Brian[/MENTION] and [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION]) got me to thinking about mine and maybe changing them since my '01 is at 170k miles.

How do mine look? Can you determine function by a visual inspection?

There is no wheel free play when I jack up each wheel and test that way.

Thanks all,

Eddie

 

[jross20]

170k? Personally I I would change them. My plan is to change them every 40k, as cheap as they are it's worth the peace of mind. Haha

 

[JMat]

I'd just replace them... Very cheap insurance and they're easy to do. On my '98, I didn't know any better, I let it go until 2018 with 320K miles on the vehicle and they were still tight and neither boot had cracked. I wouldn't do that again, though.

 

[spartacus]

I changed mine and they were pretty stout no play. I just did for abundance of caution. I drive rolling mountain roads and don't want to have a mishap.

 

[Dom8706]

Hm. This is a good idea. Not sure if the PO changed them or not. Peace of mind is always nice. Is there a recommended brand or just Toyota oem?

 

[danwyl]

OEM is the way to go. Not worth saving money on such an important part. Make sure you pick up some new bolts at the same time

 

[TheSaturnV]

Virtually a unanimous vote to replace with OEM only. Got mine for $108 each on Amazon.

 

[Thebeastlives]

170k? Personally I I would change them. My plan is to change them every 40k, as cheap as they are it's worth the peace of mind. Haha

Every 40k? That is a bit excessive no? These vehicles are over 20 years old in most cases so yes the issue is coming up often but every 40k isn't necessary. It is more like a combination of years and use that cause failure. I think more like 100k and/or 10 years which is very similar to the schedule on the timing belt.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Thank for everyone's replies. :thumb:

They will be changed over the next couple weeks.


Eddie

 

[3bears]

easy enough to do. Couple of hours max if no rust and right tools.
You can get the tools for free ( rent) at Orielleys or other. Small pitman arm puller for tie rods, large pitman arm puller for lower ball joint.
You will need a torque wrench that goes to 105 pounds. They have them too.

 

[jross20]

Every 40k? That is a bit excessive no? These vehicles are over 20 years old in most cases so yes the issue is coming up often but every 40k isn't necessary. It is more like a combination of years and use that cause failure. I think more like 100k and/or 10 years which is very similar to the schedule on the timing belt.

It's only like $220 for oem I think, worth it to me to never have to worry about it again. Haha
:reddance:

 

[jross20]

Thank for everyone's replies. :thumb:

They will be changed over the next couple weeks.


Eddie

Make sure you only use OEM lbj's

 

[rkntoy]

Every 40k? That is a bit excessive no? These vehicles are over 20 years old in most cases so yes the issue is coming up often but every 40k isn't necessary. It is more like a combination of years and use that cause failure. I think more like 100k and/or 10 years which is very similar to the schedule on the timing belt.

The "use" part of the combination is why I swapped mine out after 30k miles.

 

[phattyduck]

So a recent post about LBJs (thanks [MENTION=10950]Brian[/MENTION] and [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION]) got me to thinking about mine and maybe changing them since my '01 is at 170k miles.

How do mine look? Can you determine function by a visual inspection?

There is no wheel free play when I jack up each wheel and test that way.

Thanks all,

Eddie

As others have said, visual inspection is insufficient (torn boots = replace, but they can be bad without any visual problems).

They must be checked with the front wheels off the ground, using a pry bar and a dial indicator. Since the ball joints are under tension in all other situations, they must be off the ground. Then you pry between the arm and steering knuckle to check for play. I don't have the spec, but basically any movement means the joint is bad.

Replace if you have any doubt, OEM only here. It is the one major suspension problem/risk - and it can total your truck if they fail.

-Charlie

 

[eddielasvegas]

Thanks again all for comments and info. And only OEM for my LBJs.



Eddie

 

[Kanoe]

They must be checked with the front wheels off the ground, using a pry bar and a dial indicator. Since the ball joints are under tension in all other situations, they must be off the ground. Then you pry between the arm and steering knuckle to check for play. I don't have the spec, but basically any movement means the joint is bad.

-Charlie

Totally agree. I just wanted to add that this test is awkward as anything to do. Hard to set up and hard to get repeatable results. The time schedule is going to be a better bet for most, me included.

 

[snydmax]

Per [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and his LBJ video, you need some fairly sophisticated equipment to measure the tiny amount Toyota says is too much play.

I decided to do mine at 155k chasing some play in the steering and a wobble. The looked fine with the “jack the truck up” and wiggle method, but one of them felt looser once removed.

Also a good idea to get new bolts and use loctite... heard tell of the bolts failing before the joint itself


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