How long do you let your 4Runner warm up?

MarkBlack

New member
I have a 1997 4Runner with 140k miles on the engine. 300k on the chassis.

I live in sunny southern california.

I was wondering how long you guys let your cars warm up in the mornings (70-80F)

I searched the forum and didn't see any discussions about this topic. I feel I must have missed it.

I typically wait around a minute or 2. And that's typically whens the RPM's take the first drop.

Should I be waiting longer? I want to keep this 4runner forever, so every little thing helps.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Warmup Times

Generally a few minutes, at least— until the temp gauge moves a bit. Then slowly creep around until it is at operating temp, before driving to normal acceleration/load

Also these run best at 65mph or less for best mileage. 70 somedays
 
Living in the tropics I have never warmed up my vehicles, ever. I just get in start it and go. I am sure I will catch flack but I am not driving a delicate flower either. I also don't do 10 second burnouts coming out of my driveway so that helps
 
Here in south central PA around the time the fan goes quiet and the idle does it’s first drop I start driving.

Basically when the engine goes closed loop. That’s when the idle starts dropping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Wait for what?

I just start it (could be anywhere from 20-115 in texas), put in gear and Go.

Doesn't complain but then I don't "dog" the engine/trans even when they're fully warmed up. I save that for the Porsche!
 
TLDR at bottom...

This is an issue with which I'm way more familiar than I'd ever wanted to be. I've got almost 3 decades experience as a motorcycle mechanic (do all small engines though), and MC riders have long been "let 'er idle till warm" and "let 'er idle to keep her in good running condition over the winter" people. Those engines Known to have been idled a lot, when opened up, tend to show WAY more cylinder scoring, ring wear (and the associated oil burning/low compression/blow-by), and are the ONLY engines I've encountered in otherwise good running condition that have developed warped heads and blown head-gaskets in an "all of a sudden" way.

These are due to idling... maybe on the extreme side were someone started an engine and Just let it idle for 30 minutes, once a month, for 5 months... but it's an indicator of what you're doing when idling a cold engine. You simply have less oil flow, less lubrication, uneven heat dissipation (tends to concentrate at the top of the cylinder where the "bang" occurs), etc...

It's better for the engine to be used, lightly, as soon as it can take it. The 5vzfe engine? I've had it to -40, where F and C read the same temp, started and was on my way right after buckling my seatbelt. Vehicles with carbs are a little more fickle, my '66 Beetle takes almost a minute before it'll idle on its own when below freezing, and I'll do a lap of my driveway (about a mile) before heading out on the road just to make sure it's warming up... otherwise it bogs pretty bad and is a hazard as I live right on a 55mph highway.

So, 4runner I start, put in gear and go immediately. Same's true for every modern fuel injected vehicle I've encountered.


TLDR: Extended idling is bad, there's no need for it and it causes more damage than just Gently driving just as soon as the engine will allow, regardless of temp. (all use causes damage, also known as 'wear')
 
I just start up and go. It helps that mine is in a garage in winter. As winters can be mild or nasty some years.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the post - I was wondering about this myself. Intuitively, it feels wrong to start driving when the engine hasn't yet "settled." This winter I've gotten into the habit of letting the engine warm up, more for my own comfort than the engine. But I was wondering if it was unnecessary. Sounds like it was worse than unnecessary...
 
Thanks for the post - I was wondering about this myself. Intuitively, it feels wrong to start driving when the engine hasn't yet "settled." This winter I've gotten into the habit of letting the engine warm up, more for my own comfort than the engine. But I was wondering if it was unnecessary. Sounds like it was worse than unnecessary...
The synthetic oils really help in reducing engine wear.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
I watched a video from engineering explained talking about letting a vehicle warm up before driving/or not warming it up before driving it. YouTube. <<< link.
The best way to warm a vehicle up is to just drive it, if your in 70-80f

It's been in the low teens to right around freezing here and I fire it up and let it idle for maybe a minute before driving it. I just take it easy on the gas pedal due to fluids being cooler.
I don't think warming it up before driving it in warmer temps is gonna benefit it much. Maybe let it run a few seconds before just bang shifting it in drive.

Last year we had temps as low as -40 degrees and I was running 5w30 with no oil pan heater. The worst part was the power steering fluid was gelled up so I would do lock to lock a few times before driving, also the brake pedal was hard to press which was due to a bad brake booster check valve. The fact you don't deal with freezing/below freezing temps very often I wouldn't even bother with warming it up because it puts more wear and tear on the engine. Just like police cars may have 150K on the odometer but the engine has 6000 hours of idle time due to sitting still. I don't ever understand people around here who let their cars run for 15-30mins. before driving. I would rather spend that time driving home from work then sitting at work not getting paid. Good post and question though! :nicethread:
 
Aluminum piston clearance in an iron block is larger when cold than hot, ect.....
Aluminum expands more than iron and steel.

I let my rig warm till the needle starts climbing. This is 130 or so on my coolant gauge. Then go easy till full operating temp.
The engine isn’t technically idling as described above. It’s still turning 1k at that point. I don’t think it drops to 750rpm till somewhere past 150.

I have no idea if warm up helps, but in my mind it’s helpful to let the aluminum expand a bit and get some oil pumping around and purging any air out.
 
It can be situation dependent for different owners. I have 2 cold start situations. Home to work, then work to home 5 days later.
Home - Start it and let it idle until the infotainment system boots up, 10 seconds? Idle drops about then. Idle in gear 200 yards to the front gate, checking the horses along the way. Once out the gate it's 20 mph for 1½ or 2½ miles to the closest paved road. All warmed up by then.
Work - It initially idles a bit longer. Pull my tractor behind it. Move essentials to 4runner. Start 4runner and move it 30 feet out of the way. Leave it idling as I walk back to the tractor and park it where the 4r was. Walk back to 4r and drive <10mph 50 yards to gate. 30 mph for another mile to main road. All warmed up

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Never. Turn it on an go. Fuel injection, modern oils, even 1997 build tolerances...I just do not worry about it.

I am in California, if I were back in Vt where grew up, on the coldest days I would probably wait half a minute, about as long as it took me to get bak out and scrape the windshield and mirrors.
 
If it's cold,<40, a minute or two. If not, as soon as the idle drops or about 30 seconds.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Never idle to warm up the engine. It’s better to gently drive to warm up. With no load on the engine it takes 10 times longer to warm up and the most wear occurs during warm up. Naturally you want to reduce the time it takes to reach operating temperature as much as possible.

Key on, seatbelt on, shift to D, and Go.

Even when it’s below 0 degrees outside here, my temp gauge hits 183 degrees within 5-6 minutes of driving. If you were to sit and just idle it would barely start to get warm in that same amount of time.
 
Start and go. I live on top of a big hill, so it's just coasting until I get to the bottom, in either direction. By then, the idle has dropped and the heat is working before I ever hit the accelerator.

If it's 20°F or below, then I'll go start it and let it run to warm up the interior. If I have to, I'll just drive, though.

I'm receptive to the idea a cold idle is worse than moderate operation.
 
I usually let it warm up until the fan drops down in RPMs. Typically 15 seconds or so. I'll get in the car, immediately turn it on, and then put my seatbelt and get music playing through my phone. Typically it's been 15 seconds by then.

You really don't want to let it run a lot at idle. 15 seconds is plenty long enough to let the oil sufficiently circulate. After that you should start moving. As others mentioned, running a lot at idle is how you get carbon building and other issues.
 
Idling has low combustion pressure which causes more blow bye at idle putting more combustion by products in the oil.

Open loop puts so much more raw fuel into the oil it’s not even funny. I always let it go closed loop before driving.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have an UltraGauge that shows me exact engine temp. I'll usually warm it until the temp reaches 10-15C because that's when oil really thins up and can better support hydrodynamic lubrication. When it's 0C approx 30 sec, -10C approx 2 mins, and -45C approx 5 mins.
 
I have more experience than some less than others. I have worked on everything from Old Fords, chainsaws, Fire Engines and now 5 4runners Engine rebuilds / Head gasket repairs. I live in Temecula so not far from you I don't wait for the engine temp to start to move and I don't just hit the key and hammer the throttle hard first thing in the morning on hot or cold days.

I start the engine I take a moment to scan over the gauges for problem lights Batt, oil pressure, CE then listen for any odd noises about 15 to 20 seconds. I put it in gear listen for any other odd noises and then drive it easy until at least 3/4 of it's normal warm up range. Then I drive as needed. Long Idle times are not all that harmful but really don't do the engine any good either. So what I am after is the engine oil to make it's way around all the internal parts (15 seconds) and then the engine to get into near normal range before asking a lot from it.

My last new car was a 2001 Accord had 270,000 miles with no trouble with all the regular services. With the engine work I did on the 2 2001 4runners I hope to get 200,000 miles from each from were I'm at right now. :usa2:

One thing to add is it not uncommon in Socal for people to just get into a car that sitting there idling and take of with it.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,311
Messages
3,554,082
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top