How much do you guys pay for your oil changes?

$17 bucks for Valvoline maxlife high mileage synthetic blend at wally world. $4 bucks for a motorcraft oil filter also at wally world. Mine takes about 5.75 quarts so I just used some Mobile 1 5w/30 I had laying around for the .75 I needed.
 
which weight should it take? i just bought my 98 a couple a weeks ago. was an older guy. he got the oil changed using synthetic at a local shop but he didnt know what they used. should i use fully synthetic 5W30?

i get full synthetic for my subie and its $22 for 5 quarts of the Valvoline platinum, like $4 for filter
 
which weight should it take? i just bought my 98 a couple a weeks ago. was an older guy. he got the oil changed using synthetic at a local shop but he didnt know what they used. should i use fully synthetic 5W30?

i get full synthetic for my subie and its $22 for 5 quarts of the Valvoline platinum, like $4 for filter

5w30 is what most run. 5w20 is next most popular.
 
I pay zero. This is not an advert, but don mcgill Toyota dealership in houston does two free oil changes a year for all 'yotas over 100k. I never drive enough to need a third. Been getting them free for over 4 years now.
Just moved, so now I need to find a new answer...
 
I use castrol gtx 10w-30 (about $20 with the oil tax and stuff) and a toyota filter (about $4), so it's pretty dern cheap
 
Oil change time, I supply trusted garage owner with my purchased synthetic oil & filter / sourced cross boarder.
His skillful apprentice builds GM 4x4 mud-trucks and performs the fluid work / great guy to shoot the breeze with, around the hoist.
- $15 labor on my 2008 RAV4, no grease fittings
- $20 labor on my 2000 T4R SR5, lots of grease fitting

^^ Congrats jmferg on your prestine Gen3.
- I found a really good 1 owner one (2000 T4R SR5 3.4L) in January, but rare in Northern rust belt areas.
California, has all the good solid iron...he-he.

Spec's & Capacity - these links will help:
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
2001 TOYOTA 4-RUNNER 3.4L 6-cyl Engine Code 5VZ-FE
2001 TOYOTA 4-RUNNER 3.4L 6-cyl Engine Code 5VZ-FE - AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide

For the money, better oil out there than Mobil1 / which has probably been reformulated (aka changed).
I use to be sold on Amsoil Synthetic / expensive but very good, at extended oil frequencies.

Vehicle fluids - all I run:
a) Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 Synthetic / made from clean Natural Gas, as base stock / on-line reviews are fantastic.
- Walmart.com has 5qt jugs, at $27.88 US / free shipping to specified store
b) Amsoil has one of the best synthetic media oil filters, but pricey.
FYI - WIX makes Amsoil premium filters, their Platium XP series / so buy the WIX 51516XP, at RockAuto.com
- larger capacity one, that used in older Land Crusiers
c) Amsoil Severe Gear oil SAE 75w-90 is my top choice
d) Also I use Amsoil Racing Grease / due to extended oil changes.

^^ Easily expect to get 8,000 mile oil changes (or 13,000 Km.) / while the used oil still maintains a clean honey color.
 

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I do my own changes on my 4Runner but with my wife's MK3 Ford Focus Ford only charges $27 out the door for semi-syn and that's worth it to me.
 
Question, anyone else use castrol full synthetic ?

I'm trying to figure out why castrol adds titanium in their regular synthetic blend ?

Another question. I just recently switched from castrol gtx conventional oil to castrol edge full synthetic. And after my first oil change , after switching to synthetic and then draining the first synthetic. The oil was kinda dirty looking compared to when I had regular conventional oil. 3k-4K intervals.
 
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I just find it really funny that all these HARDCORE 4x4 HELL YEAH guys are scared of getting a little dirty for like 30 minutes every few months. :hiding:
I know it's a bit repetitive, but I like changing the oil. I like getting under the vehicle and taking a look around, and I like wrenching (even piddly stuff like oil changes).
Not sure what people are talking about with the oil mess either; the stock skid plate comes off in 3 minutes and then you have a straight shot to the filter. You have to try to make a mess.
Maybe an issue if you have a supremely unruly aftermarket engine skid-plate that's a PITA to remove, but then, that's your own fault.


On my Altima I have to JACK UP THE VEHICLE AND REMOVE THE TIRE to get to the filter, per the FSM. Much easier and almost the same price to have someone else bother with it for $30.

I know that reputability changes from shop to shop, but with removing a wheel, that just seems like a whole lot more that can 'go wrong' with NOT going DIY.
It bothers you just to do that every few months; what if you were the 'low guy on the totem pole' at the shop and got stuck changing oil all day every day? I'm sure your Altima is not the only vehicle that needs a wheel removed to access the filter.
He's probably attacking all the lug-nuts he can with nothing but an air impact, just out of trying to get 30 repetitive jobs a day done. Probably not at all torqued to spec, and we all know what that means.



I've seen too many signs at quick change places (where I get my state inspections done) that say they are not responsible for stripping drain pan holes. So some 16 yo jackass strips the plug, and I can't sue when my engine dumps all its oil with me going 70 down the freeway? Yeah right.

FYI for everyone; my dad used to work at Firestone. While they may charge the consumer '$x.xx' per labor hour, or '$x.xx' per engine/tranny/diff oil change, they pay the technician a set flat rate amount per job, regardless of how long it takes him. If it takes him 5 minutes, or 2 hours, he gets paid the same.
So pretty much, the technician is 'financially encouraged' to be as fast as possible to get as many 'flat rated' tasks squeezed into the day as he can. He makes more money that way. There's a bit more to the pricing structure than that, but that's it in a nutshell.
This may not be the case for all shops, but just an FYI.
This does not speak 'quality' to me.

Also, I use Wal-Mart Synthetic and filters. $20. Have used Valvoline High Mileage Synthetic blend before too.
 
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Oil change time, I supply trusted garage owner with my purchased synthetic oil & filter / sourced cross boarder.
His skillful apprentice builds GM 4x4 mud-trucks and performs the fluid work / great guy to shoot the breeze with, around the hoist.
- $15 labor on my 2008 RAV4, no grease fittings
- $20 labor on my 2000 T4R SR5, lots of grease fitting

Walmart carries 5w-30 penzoil ultra, but not 0w-20?...lame

my 4runner has enough leaks with the mobil1 EP.

i would love 0w-20 for our newer cars.
 
I buy my oil at Wal-Mart and then instead of going home, I take it to the dealer to have it changed with a factory filter.

In fact, I just did this today.

$33.79 after tax for oil (One big jug and one single quart of Mobil 1 5-30).

$25.09 after tax for the oil change, filter, and crush washer thing. Looking at my receipt it looks like I wasn't charged for the filter which happens quite often. However, the dealer I went to today (lifts were not working at my normal dealer) I could actually watch them change it, and the filter was replaced. I think I'll go here from now on.

So grand total of $58.88.

I do this for a few reasons.

1. I am lazy

2. I don't care who you are, oil is messy

3. Disposing of oil is annoying

4. When I access my Toyota Owners account I have record of every single oil change I have ever had.

5. I actually like sitting in the dealership for an hour or so and watching mindless television while drinking free espresso.

A guy in the past on my Mitsubishi forum has built a $6k drag motor. They forgot to add oil on first fire up. Motor was toast.

They could:

Underfill = you're ****ed
Overfill = you're ****ed
Not tighten drain plug = you're ****ed
Over tighten drain plug = you're ****ed
Not even change your oil = you're less ****ed

Big risk to save $15 (at most), and 15 minutes.

Let me count the ways:
1) Stripped drain plug
2) Drain plug on but loose, so it eventually falls out, your oil drains out and maybe you burn up your engine if you don't catch it quick enough.
3) Oil Filter on but not tight - Oil leaks out and again you possibly burn up your engine.
4) Forget to put oil in - like the two above, burned up engine.
5) On a less damaging note - they either strip or forget to put all the skid pans bolts on.

Been doing my own oil changes since 1982. I'm now of the opinion that I will do a much more complete and detailed job working on my rig than anyone I pay to do it for me as long as I do my homework before I attempt something. There are good mechanics out there, but when it comes down to it, I trust myself more than I trust someone else who might be rushing, having a bad day, hung over or whatever their issue happens to be that day.

Edit: I just saw [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] beat me to it.

:party:you guys are awesome :fro:
 
Change it myself with the cheapest (API certified) conventional oil I can find: Supertech 10w30, True Value store brand 10w30, and most recently Shell conventional at home depot. I try to stay at $13 dollars or less for my 5 quart jug. Run my changes about 5,000 miles.

363,000 miles on the cheap stuff. Stuff is coming out after 5,000 miles, save your money.

Takes about 15 minutes and relatively clean. If you don't like or want to do it yourself it is a free country.
 
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Attempt at being a manly man, or perhaps a paranoid old fogy on a truck forum, take 2.

Had to change the oil on my twenty-one year old 530i which has gone an impressive twenty-one years with having all regular maintenance done by supposed stoned teenage slackers at dealers and indy shops without A. blowing up, or B. rear ending a 3rd gen 4Runner and getting totaled by the trailer hitch receiver because the stoned teenage slacker forgot to tighten the brake line fittings.

I got some Mechanics gloves at harbor freight so I wouldn't skin my knuckles from dragging them on the ground again while trying to look manly. Also purchased the new filter and 8 quarts(I shit you not, this 3.0L V8 takes that much oil) of Rotella T6. So I got the car on ramps, drained the oil, and removed the filter. At this point I was in shock. Why? There was no mess. At all. That was cool. And It only took about 25 minutes.

But I still had to drive around with 8 quarts of dirty ass oil to dispose of it, and that just sucks. Plus I still felt dirty as hell afterwards. And I didn't do any better or any worse of a job than my dear trusted professional. AND I wanted coffee.

So I ended up dropping off the Audi at the dealer to get a service and noticed how A. Nobody cared about stoned teenage slackers and B. none of the cars blew up or rear ended 3rd gen 4Runners because the stoned teenage slackers forgot to tighten brake lines(they won't get totaled since they are fairly new, but the 3rd gen still wins anyway).

So yeah, I guess this DIY experience wasn't as dreadful. The Audi dealer had coffee to make up for it too. Not too big on the cheap Dunkin Donuts stuff though.
 
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A buddy of mine took his Tacoma to some oil change place, and they ended up leaving a McDonalds cup full of oil in his engine bay!

Needless to say, he wasn't happy.
 

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