How Necessary is a Panhard drop bracket or Adjustable Tracbar?

Atrox Caeda

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So here's the deal, currently I have coilovers up front running at about 0.5in over stock height. I'm planning on throwing some LC 8 Wraps in the rear within the next couple weeks and cranking the fronts up to match the height as close as possible. I have ES9000 shocks ready to be put in with the rears. I also have a diff drop kit coming. So, my question is this... do I need to get the rear brake line extension and the panhard drop bracket or adjustable tracbar, or can it wait and be done a couple weeks later or is it even necessary at all? Input appreciated.
 
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You're going to find very different view points on this. I tried doing the drop bracket and it did me no good since I'm raised quite a bit, OME 861's. I have the adjustable tracbar because the axel would have been pulled way to the right like it did on my last 3rd gen before I got the adjustable bar.

But, you also have people who say they didn't need it or didn't want to run it because it causes issues with the drive shaft hitting your gas tank skid.


It's going to depend on what you have it set up for and what will work best in your situation.
 
It is optional but should be done eventually IMO.

I have had 8 wraps for a month or two and no panhard modification has been done yet... rides fine.

Edit (forgot to add):
I plan on doing a drop but I am concerned that the toytec drop bracket will not stand up to abuse without adding additional side support. So I am looking at options and considering making my own and paying someone to weld it up.

The reason for a drop over an extended(adjustable) bar is the angle of the bar and how that affects handling, especially at higher speeds. The greater the angle of the bar, the more side-to-side movement of the rear axle during compression. Extended bars also cause problems with clearance between the driveshaft and the gas tank skid when compressed because the whole axle is being pushed to the drivers side. You can pound the skid back with a BFH but I think that's a bandaid.
 
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Good to know. I feel like adding an elevated bracket off the axle would actually be a better option since it would be moving on the same plain as the factory mounts on the frame. I may try to fab something up in that case.
 
I ran 890s without a drop or extended. When I went to the 891s, I added a ToyTec drop. It really cleared up the "wag the tail" that you will get without one. The drop allows the PHB to move in a more vertical arc, like stock. When you raise the back, the PHB will now have a more diagonal arc which will cause the tail to pivot as its compressed. Drops and extended bars will re-center the axle after lifting. Without, the axle will be off center and will cause the rig to track sorta sideways. Extended bars will re-center the axle but can cause the driveshaft/gas tank skid contact. Drops will minimize this contact. Extended bars will still have a diagonal arc. My gas tank skid (see link below) will eliminate this contact (when the bar is properly adjusted). Steve and I worked together to eliminate this contact.

The drop MUST be bolted AND weld on. Some of us have also added/welded another brace back to the frame to stabilize the drop.

The verdict: Yes, re-centering the axle will restore some of the factory road manners. I'm running about 4",5" of lift and the rig handles as good or even better than stock. I travel the country at legal speeds and the rig track perfectly straight.

Those that say that its not needed probably haven't experienced with and without.
 
I currently have LX450's in the rear with ES9000s for a Land Cruiser. I intend to get the extended panhard bar from Sonoran Steel eventually. But for now it has been great. My .02 cents.
 
I am in the sAme boat with the pan hard bar I am running the 890 it may just be pulled like .25" but I can see it. I like to do thing the right way I don't like riding down the road and someone thing hey look his stuff is not centered I do it all the time I don't think I need a drop bracket because the angle is not that much more than stock but I did shell out my 175 buck to SS for the adjustable panhard bar in the long run I think do it right the first time this away when I do upgrade is will be less to buy down the road.
 
As some of the beginning posts have said, there are a few ways of looking at it.

1) Drop may damage bracket and need bracing. I haven't put mine through hell, but have tested it without issue. There are LOTS of people on here who don't have damaged braces, but I can see it happening. It's not thick metal.

2) Not sure if it's one or the other, but the driveshaft can hit the gas tank skid. Also your grease nipple will be torn off.

3) Without, your axle isn't centered. Mostly offroad this won't matter that much

4) Adjustable doesn't level bar for proper articulation pattern.

5) Lower the bar level the worse the high center is. Ie, putting drop on drivers side is ideal, but doesn't fit (well).

Look into all the alternatives and make the decision that's best for you. I went with the drop because my truck won't be offroaded in too many extreme locations, however I have tested it quite a bit with probably 15 tire rubs this weekend. Mostly I use the truck for exploration. I have dirt bikes and dual sports for more gnarly stuff that are cheaper to fix and run!
 
i had 9 wraps with stock pan bar in stock location, still rubbed gas tank skid plate(stock), but maybe 2wd's are different.
 
i am waiting on my panhard drop bracket to come in the mail should be here tommorow. i am going to bolt this up to the axle side to lift the bar up with my 890's to see if this helps out. to me its worth the shot.
 
Just as I thought... all good responses and not a correct answer to find. I think I will do it without one and see how it does. If I notice the tracking is bad I will address it. Always easy to add it if I need than to shell out and not need it. Thanks for all the input guys!
 
I've wondered about this myself as I gain a better understanding of my Runner. I have one cuz I bought the SS 1.2A kit, which is the only kit SS sells anymore (Steve discontinued the 1.2).

Here's a link to the SS website where there is a ton of info on why you should have one. I know Steve is trying to sell a product, so use your own judgment. Hope it helps a bit.

4Runner - Fully Adjustable Trac/PanHard Bar (1996 to 2002) - $175.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
 
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When I went to the 891s, I added a ToyTec drop. It really cleared up the "wag the tail" that you will get without one. The drop allows the PHB to move in a more vertical arc, like stock. When you raise the back, the PHB will now have a more diagonal arc, which will cause the tail to pivot as it's compressed. Drops and extended bars will re-center the axle after lifting. Without, the axle will be off-center and will cause the rig to track sorta sideways. Extended bars will re-center the axle but can cause the driveshaft-gas tank skid contact. Drops will minimize this contact. Extended bars will still have a diagonal arc. My gas tank skid (see link below) will eliminate this contact (when the bar is properly adjusted). Steve and I worked together to eliminate this contact.

The drop MUST be bolted AND weld on. Some of us have also added/welded another brace back to the frame to stabilize the drop.

The verdict: Yes, re-centering the axle will restore some of the factory road manners. I'm running about 4",5" of lift and the rig handles as good or even better than stock. I travel the country at legal speeds and the rig track perfectly straight.

Steve Schaefer @ Sonoran Steel states on his website that he stopped selling the drop because he found it ineffective...

anyway, I would like to order your gas tank skid; how much is it?
 
Steve and I talked extensively about panhard bars and drops.
Steve was very helpful with ideas on how my gas tank skid would clear the driveshaft when using his extended bar, which it does do.

My skid can be ordered here Place Order « Lil' Skip's Offroad . As of now, the skid is $325 plus tax and/or shipping, depending on where you are located.
 
Good to know. I feel like adding an elevated bracket off the axle would actually be a better option since it would be moving on the same plain as the factory mounts on the frame. I may try to fab something up in that case.

Has anyone made a bracket for the axle side of the bar?
If this is the best option why are brakets only available for the frame side?
I am going to move up to 890's in the back from 906's and will need to address the panhard bar just thinking if I am already going to pay someone to weld on the toytec bracket I might as well have it dont right and put the extension on the correct side, No?
 
Has anyone made a bracket for the axle side of the bar?
If this is the best option why are brakets only available for the frame side?
I am going to move up to 890's in the back from 906's and will need to address the panhard bar just thinking if I am already going to pay someone to weld on the toytec bracket I might as well have it dont right and put the extension on the correct side, No?

That is a good question I'd love to hear some good answers lol. I don't know much about these and have just started researching it myself.
 

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