How To: DIY 3rd Gen 4Runner 8" Retrofit Elocker Wiring

[Lamer]

Operation

Most likely if you're reading this the only thing your elocker came with was the harness that plugs into the elocker itself. On this harness you have two plugs. One plug with 2 wires that controls the locker detection switch and another plug with 5 wires that controls the locker motor and locker motor limit switch. On the other end of this harness you will have a couple more connectors that would plug into another harness. These you don't need, so cut them off and strip back the wiring. Begin soldering the wires to your provided cable. Please note you will have 7 wires total. You will have two white/black wires, one coming from the 5 wired plug and another from the 2 wired plug. These will be spliced together and ran as one wire. A good tip at this time would be to write down what color wires are corresponding with your wires off the elocker harness. You will need to know this later when installing the switch. If you are using 3 runs of 2 conductor I would suggest numbering both ends as of your provided cable so you know what red & black wire goes to what since you have 3 pairs of the same colored wire. 6 Conductor will have all separate colors so it makes it a bit easier.

After you have successfully connected and ran your elocker cable to the front of the cab you need to run your 2 conductor for your power to the switch. Splice in an in-line fuse holder on the positive wire side with a 10A fuse. When you have ran all the wires, now is the time to connect the negative wire lead from the elocker cable to the black negative wire lead coming from the 2 conductor that you ran to the battery. After this, begin connecting all your female connectors and finally install the connectors to the back of your switch and place in whichever spot you want. You will most likely have to cut a little bit of the edges on the location to get the switch to fit in there. Notice, you will need to make two small jumper wires for running your loops for the switch. See pictures and diagram below. These diagrams are based off the cabling I ran. Please DO NOT associate the colors I ran with yours unless they are exactly the same.

two questions:

1: with this method, the E-locker ECU is not required? (yes/no)

2: with this method, I can lock my e locker any time I want? (yes/no)

 

[kolelt]

two questions:

1: with this method, the E-locker ECU is not required? (yes/no)

2: with this method, I can lock my e locker any time I want? (yes/no)

Correct. So you need to be careful when locking it. SLOW DOWN OR COME
TO FULL STOP. Because it will lock up at any speed if presses ON. Factory ecu doesn’t allow the elocker to engage over 5mph.


Anyways , I have a question. My elocker just stopped working. I’m going to be re doing the harness. Because the 12voltguy harness sucks! Absolutely horrible. The wires are super thin!! I’m also going to be using the LowRangeOffRoad switch. With that said. I hope that will fix my elocker. Assuming it’s the wiring. I have a power probe. Any tips on how to test the elocker motor ?

 

[JWaldz]

two questions:

1: with this method, the E-locker ECU is not required? (yes, not required)

2: with this method, I can lock my e locker any time I want? (yes)

See above red!

 

[JWaldz]

Any tips on how to test the elocker motor ?

There's a few videos out there about "bench testing" the motor. Meaning testing the assembly on a work bench or similar. Just apply power to the motor, wire up a switch, and check the operations to see if it's unlocking or locking. This will tell you if it's operational.

 

[Lamer]

See above red!

man thanks for the quick response!

just picked up a complete locking rear axle with full intent on doing exactly what you did. just not sure when haha

 

[Scramble]

There's a few videos out there about "bench testing" the motor. Meaning testing the assembly on a work bench or similar. Just apply power to the motor, wire up a switch, and check the operations to see if it's unlocking or locking. This will tell you if it's operational.

If you have the factory RR e-locker switch, how hard is it to wire over the aftermarket ones? Or is it the same 1-8 that you have pictured in your OP. My FROR harness came with a switch but I'd rather make it look factory.
Thanks,

 

[JWaldz]

If you have the factory RR e-locker switch, how hard is it to wire over the aftermarket ones? Or is it the same 1-8 that you have pictured in your OP. My FROR harness came with a switch but I'd rather make it look factory.
Thanks,

I honestly don't know the answer. The factory switch probably has a different operation cus it goes to the ecu first vs going straight to the motor.

If you confirm the factory switch is just a momentary Double Pole Double Throw 8 circuit switch it's just simply tracing down what circuit does what and matching it to my schematic.

 

[Scramble]

I honestly don't know the answer. The factory switch probably has a different operation cus it goes to the ecu first vs going straight to the motor.

If you confirm the factory switch is just a momentary Double Pole Double Throw 8 circuit switch it's just simply tracing down what circuit does what and matching it to my schematic.

I'm thinking different cause of the ecu, I'll figure it out. Thanks!

 

[JWaldz]

I'm thinking different cause of the ecu, I'll figure it out. Thanks!

If you're concerned with the switch face looking ugly OTRATTW makes some nice switch faces.

 

[Lamer]

question about the switch...

you say we need an "8 circuit DPDT *Momentary* Switch"

does that mean a "ON/OFF/ON" switch? where one "ON" is engaging the locker, and the second "ON" is disengaging the locker? and the switch always returns to the center position right after you press it?

or

is your OTRATTW switch a two position? (ON/OFF) and does it hold the ON position?

these might be dumb questions but I am uncertain what you mean by "momentary" and any clarification would help. thanks!

 

[kolelt]

I just installed this switch from lowrangeoffroad. Im pretty sure mine was a 10 pin from them.

However, i fallowed this and the diagram of lowrangeoffroad website. Wired everything in.

With this switch, you have to hold it till it locks in? Correct? same goes when unlocked? Vs just hitting a button then waiting till it locks it for you?

Also, i hold the button till i no longer hear the motor engage. But I don't feel the rear locking up. My elocker was working and locking before. However, I had 12voltguy harness. Something happened with switch or the wires. The switch wouldn't send power to the locker. So I ended up completely ditching it and getting lowrangeoffroad switch. Creating my own harness. I hear the motor engage, but I don't feel the rear binding or the switch light up

 

[Mark_BC]

You have to hold the switch for about at least 10 seconds if I recall correctly for it to engage/disengage. After about 30 seconds it stops.

I checked to see if it's locked by jacking up one wheel and trying to spin it while the other is firmly on the ground and unable to spin. ANd transfer case in neutral so the driveshaft can spin freely.

 

[Klondike4Runner]

Apologies for reviving an old thread, but I have just installed the switch and harness per the guide but the switch won't light up when engaged. Is it supposed to light up?