Here it goes. This is my first write up and unfortunately I don't have any pics and Don't want to do it again anytime soon. From me having to do it 5 times in the last 2 weeks I hope this will help those so you don't have my problems...
Tools
1 21mm socket
1 19mm socket
1 17mm socket
1 35mm socket
1 10mm hex head socket
BFH (big effing hammer)
Also a rubber mallet is a plus...or just hit the old axle with the big one as it's coming out anyways.
1 short prybar (12 inches)
1 long prybar (36 inches)
little screwdriver and little hammer to pop off the dust cover
Materials
1 new/remanned axle
1 cotter pin
1.5 quarts of gear lube 80/90 or 75/90
Removal
1. Jack up the truck, take off the tire.
2. Take off the two 19mm bolts under the bottom of the rotor that attach it to the control arm.
3. Take off the sway bar endlink from the knuckle 17mm nut.
4. Get a screw driver and pound it in to pop off the outside black dust cover. (be gentle and patient don't deform it just go slow and work your way around the cover.)
5. Take out the cotter pin that hold on the little thingy around the big hub nut.
6. Take a 35mm socket to the hub nut. (I used an air impact and it came right off....good luck with a big bar
7. Take a rubber mallet and hit the center threads of the old axle to loosen it from the hub...make sure it starts moving a bit. A few good whacks should loosen it up.
8. Have a buddy swing out the rotor a bit while you push the threads through the hub (possibly some light taps with the hammer to get it through) Also, DON'T pry on the inside of the hub...could screw up some bearings.
9. Now you got the outside out...use a slide hammer (who has one of those?) Or a pry bar and a huge hammer...HUGE being the keyword. I used a 10 lb sledge. But just light swings on it. The weight is the key. You can't wind up anyways...just some light/medium taps with the huge hammer and it should start coming out. Keep the taps coming until you can wiggle it... (good to have a buddy on the other end supporting the axle some.)
10. Get a bucket, the gear oil will start dripping out (smells worse than death)
Install
1. lube up the new axle with grease. Make sure C-clip opening is facing up.
2. Set it in place and push it in as far as you can with your hands.
3. Get a really big pry bar (~36 inches) and thread it in there to get on the lip of the axle.
4. Use said HUGE hammer...and some gentle taps and it will go in.
5. Move the rotor out a bit and thread in the other end into the hub (easy)
6. Put the hub nut back on. along with the sway bar nut and the bottom control arm bolt and voila all done. and the tire...
BTW refill with oil using 10mm hex socket
The reason I did it 5 times is because my seals were leaking oil like crazy afterwards so after getting it all together I've had to redo each side seal (PITA).
The Side seals are Toyota part number
90311-47013 for the PASSENGER side
and I believe 90311-47012 for the DRIVER side...still waiting to get the right one. (WHY oh WHY are they different sizes???)
The 12 is smaller than the 13.
~10 bucks for the 47012 and 18 bucks for the 47013
I recommend replacing these seals too while you're at it so you don't have to do it again like me.
Just use your little pry bar and pry them out of the end (be mean to it). To install just set them in flush with the outside...and let the axle push it back in when you hammer it in. That way you don't have to deal with more leaking.
Notes: You don't need to take sensors or upper ball joint or hub or anything else out. This is literally 2 bolts and 2 nuts...that's it. Trust me i've done it like 5 times now and with air tools I can get it out and back in in about 45 minutes...Before I figured out the HUGE hammer with light/medium taps I spent an hour and a half trying to get the new axle in and out. but just go BIG on the hammer and light on the hits and you're golden.
I haven't seen any good CV axle right-ups on this forum seen a taco one and an FJ writeup but they took way more off than needed. Hope this helps everyone and if anyone is doing this and wants to add pics...much appreciated.
Tools
1 21mm socket
1 19mm socket
1 17mm socket
1 35mm socket
1 10mm hex head socket
BFH (big effing hammer)
Also a rubber mallet is a plus...or just hit the old axle with the big one as it's coming out anyways.
1 short prybar (12 inches)
1 long prybar (36 inches)
little screwdriver and little hammer to pop off the dust cover
Materials
1 new/remanned axle
1 cotter pin
1.5 quarts of gear lube 80/90 or 75/90
Removal
1. Jack up the truck, take off the tire.
2. Take off the two 19mm bolts under the bottom of the rotor that attach it to the control arm.
3. Take off the sway bar endlink from the knuckle 17mm nut.
4. Get a screw driver and pound it in to pop off the outside black dust cover. (be gentle and patient don't deform it just go slow and work your way around the cover.)
5. Take out the cotter pin that hold on the little thingy around the big hub nut.
6. Take a 35mm socket to the hub nut. (I used an air impact and it came right off....good luck with a big bar
7. Take a rubber mallet and hit the center threads of the old axle to loosen it from the hub...make sure it starts moving a bit. A few good whacks should loosen it up.
8. Have a buddy swing out the rotor a bit while you push the threads through the hub (possibly some light taps with the hammer to get it through) Also, DON'T pry on the inside of the hub...could screw up some bearings.
9. Now you got the outside out...use a slide hammer (who has one of those?) Or a pry bar and a huge hammer...HUGE being the keyword. I used a 10 lb sledge. But just light swings on it. The weight is the key. You can't wind up anyways...just some light/medium taps with the huge hammer and it should start coming out. Keep the taps coming until you can wiggle it... (good to have a buddy on the other end supporting the axle some.)
10. Get a bucket, the gear oil will start dripping out (smells worse than death)
Install
1. lube up the new axle with grease. Make sure C-clip opening is facing up.
2. Set it in place and push it in as far as you can with your hands.
3. Get a really big pry bar (~36 inches) and thread it in there to get on the lip of the axle.
4. Use said HUGE hammer...and some gentle taps and it will go in.
5. Move the rotor out a bit and thread in the other end into the hub (easy)
6. Put the hub nut back on. along with the sway bar nut and the bottom control arm bolt and voila all done. and the tire...
BTW refill with oil using 10mm hex socket
The reason I did it 5 times is because my seals were leaking oil like crazy afterwards so after getting it all together I've had to redo each side seal (PITA).
The Side seals are Toyota part number
90311-47013 for the PASSENGER side
and I believe 90311-47012 for the DRIVER side...still waiting to get the right one. (WHY oh WHY are they different sizes???)
The 12 is smaller than the 13.
~10 bucks for the 47012 and 18 bucks for the 47013
I recommend replacing these seals too while you're at it so you don't have to do it again like me.
Just use your little pry bar and pry them out of the end (be mean to it). To install just set them in flush with the outside...and let the axle push it back in when you hammer it in. That way you don't have to deal with more leaking.
Notes: You don't need to take sensors or upper ball joint or hub or anything else out. This is literally 2 bolts and 2 nuts...that's it. Trust me i've done it like 5 times now and with air tools I can get it out and back in in about 45 minutes...Before I figured out the HUGE hammer with light/medium taps I spent an hour and a half trying to get the new axle in and out. but just go BIG on the hammer and light on the hits and you're golden.
I haven't seen any good CV axle right-ups on this forum seen a taco one and an FJ writeup but they took way more off than needed. Hope this helps everyone and if anyone is doing this and wants to add pics...much appreciated.
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