[MENTION=92557]DuvallRunner[/MENTION], There is a pretty good possibility its the shaft. I recently replaced mine with a couple of remanned ones and had the same problem on the passenger side after 2 seals I pulled it out and checked the part the seal rides on and compared to the old one. There was no line where the seal left a mark like the original one so I exchanged it for another remanned one and sure enough it had the wear mark from the seal so I think the first one had been machined just enough so it wouldn't make a good seal. Hope this helps.
How to install new CV Axles
- Thread starter settytb
- Start date
The damn cv axles have been my nemesis the last few days. I can get it in and out now very quick, and I have learned the rebooting process well, however I have no faith in the special metal bands. Anyway. My problem now is the axle seal. I have a brand new one, but I am not 100 percent on its orientation.
Which side goes in first? The flat side or the side with the thin flap on it?
Which side goes in first? The flat side or the side with the thin flap on it?
Doozi
New member
The flat side goes to the inside. The outside doesn't really give you much area to push on and that's probably why they have a Special Service Tool (SST). I made my own SST by turning down a PVC coupler... the inside diameter fit nicely around the part of the seal that sticks out, but the coupler was too thick to fit inside the diff housing as I pushed the seal in. I spent a lot of time tapping and checking to make sure it was going in evenly. Just tapped it in until I was certain it sat against the lip in the diff.
If I remember correctly, you can see the metal part of the seal on that flat side.
If I remember correctly, you can see the metal part of the seal on that flat side.
Ahhh. Thank you thank you. I bought a new seal but put the old one in last time to get a feel for how to press it in by hand. Turns out I put it in backwards. I may put the old on in the right way now and just test it.
It slid right in backwards, I'm assuming the new one would be tougher to put in?
Anyway, this whole problem started because I thought the seal was stuck in there and was supposed to have come off with the axle. Even though it didn't when I did the cv axle the first time. Got cocky and thought I knew more than I did. Thanks man, let me know any other pointers you have. There are a lot of cv axle threads out there!
It slid right in backwards, I'm assuming the new one would be tougher to put in?
Anyway, this whole problem started because I thought the seal was stuck in there and was supposed to have come off with the axle. Even though it didn't when I did the cv axle the first time. Got cocky and thought I knew more than I did. Thanks man, let me know any other pointers you have. There are a lot of cv axle threads out there!
Kmvreter
New member
Actually the 4th Gen is 217 ft-lbs per the '04 FSM. Both documents state 217.
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zopperman
Moderator
Interesting, my 03 repair manual has 173 too...but I also see 217 on another page of the manual thats identical to the one you posted.
nj636
Banned
definitely interesting, i've never come across the 217 ft-lb spec. I use Timken bearings in my assemblies and they state 173 as well. Regardless, torque the nut don't just hit it with an impact gun.
Brutalguyracing
New member
properly installed seal for reference and I would add a torque wrench to the tool list. The 35mm axle nut has to be torqued to 173 ft/lbs to ensure a long life out of the wheel bearing.
dam you need a new camera.....
and you seem to be missing some sort of bearing????
and i would go 173lbm on the axle nut as the front end is a tacoma front end....
nj636
Banned
Maybe more shots would do and different angle. Just like when you take a picture of a model. I thought something is wrong with my eye sight. But thank you, that picture helped a lot explain things. 
nj636
Banned
Maybe more shots would do and different angle. Just like when you take a picture of a model. I thought something is wrong with my eye sight. But thank you, that picture helped a lot explain things.
no problem! Yes that picture was from over the winter when I installed the ECGS bushing in the diff.
Glad it helped
Brutalguyracing
New member
It could have been in better focus
Thats all im saying
Thats all im saying
paraordnance
New member
This is really great write up for starters but I made some shortcuts and it works great!
1) I skipped the 17 mm sway bar endlink from the knuckle. Doesn't have to come out. Mine just would not budge with WD40/penetrant or even impact gun. Both sides rusted solid. I would have to cut them out if ever need to be replaced. Just ignore them. Take 2 x 19 mm and that's it! Literally 2 bolts, swing the rotor out to the side and hammer away at the axle. After taking axles 3 times in 24 hours I can replace CV axle in 20 min per side including taking tires off. If you have impact its as easy as removing two 19 mm bolts at the bottom. The longest part is draining oil and filling back the differential. I seriously cannot believe how easy it is (kudos to Toyota for such a great design) .
2) Sliding hammer/STT is not mandatory at all. I actually preferred without one. I had sliding hammer rented but by the time you get the 4" clamp on it secured I can remove the whole axle. Couple blows from 5 lbs sledge to the pry bar and axle comes right out. As OP noted, go heavy and easy.
3) Seals. Oh yeah... You probably asking why I had to do it 3 times. They are bit.. to set them properly. Particularly the passenger side. The driver one went in easy from first time but the right hand side gave me some stress. After doing it 2 times and having leaks I set the new seal to the new CV axle before I installed it back and it worked! See picture for reference.
I'm showing old axle and old seal but you get the idea. Apply some grease to the new seal. Point copper/flat side of seal to the differential housing, align it against dust cover and carefully slide the whole thing in. It worked!
Hammering seal in is not a best solution. I wrecked one (slightly caved in) from too much force. There is also dilemma on how deep it has to go. This way dust cover will push it in as far as it has to go. And I had no leaks after
Hope this helps. Good luck!
1) I skipped the 17 mm sway bar endlink from the knuckle. Doesn't have to come out. Mine just would not budge with WD40/penetrant or even impact gun. Both sides rusted solid. I would have to cut them out if ever need to be replaced. Just ignore them. Take 2 x 19 mm and that's it! Literally 2 bolts, swing the rotor out to the side and hammer away at the axle. After taking axles 3 times in 24 hours I can replace CV axle in 20 min per side including taking tires off. If you have impact its as easy as removing two 19 mm bolts at the bottom. The longest part is draining oil and filling back the differential. I seriously cannot believe how easy it is (kudos to Toyota for such a great design) .
2) Sliding hammer/STT is not mandatory at all. I actually preferred without one. I had sliding hammer rented but by the time you get the 4" clamp on it secured I can remove the whole axle. Couple blows from 5 lbs sledge to the pry bar and axle comes right out. As OP noted, go heavy and easy.
3) Seals. Oh yeah... You probably asking why I had to do it 3 times. They are bit.. to set them properly. Particularly the passenger side. The driver one went in easy from first time but the right hand side gave me some stress. After doing it 2 times and having leaks I set the new seal to the new CV axle before I installed it back and it worked! See picture for reference.
I'm showing old axle and old seal but you get the idea. Apply some grease to the new seal. Point copper/flat side of seal to the differential housing, align it against dust cover and carefully slide the whole thing in. It worked!
Hammering seal in is not a best solution. I wrecked one (slightly caved in) from too much force. There is also dilemma on how deep it has to go. This way dust cover will push it in as far as it has to go. And I had no leaks after
Hope this helps. Good luck!
