How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)

[jjrraass]

The lift is an ICON stage 2 with the adjustable track bar. 2" in front and 2.75 in the rear.

 

[TK-422]

Another thank you to all that contributed to this thread. I removed the UCA and coilover as one unit last night. I went thru this thread this morning and using a jack and ratchet strap the sway bar went on way easier than I thought it was going to be. I will tackle the rear suspension next weekend.

 

[mwray8909]

Another thank you to all that contributed to this thread. I removed the UCA and coilover as one unit last night. I went thru this thread this morning and using a jack and ratchet strap the sway bar went on way easier than I thought it was going to be. I will tackle the rear suspension next weekend.

The rears take less than half the time. If you need a hand next weekend I believe I'm free. Let me know.

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[adam2562]

apparently there's uneducated people running around on the Facebook groups spreading tales that KDSS equipped 4runner's cant be lifted.. i cant wait till they read this thread after i went back and forth with them about it( they said Toyota told them you cant do it, i tried and tried to explain how wrong he and they were)

 

[jrandom]

apparently there's uneducated people running around on the Facebook groups spreading tales that KDSS equipped 4runner's cant be lifted..

Huh? Really, shit, does that mean my truck is going to explode into a massive ball of fire?

 

[toyohtadude]

Huh? Really, shit, does that mean my truck is going to explode into a massive ball of fire?

Only if it is lifted with KDSS....

I think a lot of the newer generation are just too damned lazy to investigate on their own and willingly accept anything on blind-faith. Not this old man.... :cheers:

 

[adam2562]

yea, he tried to pull the "i work for toyota" card.. at one point he gave up and he might have realized he was defeated. but wouldn't admit it. he didn't wanna believe me even though i installed my own.

 

[paddy1337]

Sorry for the uneducated question. I don't have a KDSS vehicle, but plan to acquire one at some point. My goal is as much capability while retaining all KDSS functionality.

When you are lifting your trucks w/ KDSS, are you gaining articulation (compression, droop, both?) or keeping the same amount of travel on a vehicle that's higher at static ride height?

If you're gaining travel, how much can be gained front and rear before KDSS is the limiting factor?

This stuff is very interesting...

 

[Cytronus]

Great write up and comments in this thread. Nice to see.

I'm a new 2016 Trail Premium owner with KDSS. I just ordered an ICON Stage 7 kit with the ICON rear bump stops and shin guards and will be doing the install myself with a couple local SF Bay Area forum guys who own 3rd gens (since I just upgraded from a 3rd gen). Any local 5th Gen'ers are welcome too, as it might be a valuable learning experience if you have similar lift plans.

I'll be renting a shop with a lift to make the install easier vs. floor jacks. I want to prevent the KDSS bar from hanging when disconnected so as not to damage the KDSS reservoirs. I saw the comment about ratchet strapping and wondering what to ratchet the KDSS bar to? The axle? And will that require 2 straps - one on each side to keep it fairly level? Pics would be helpful if anyone has any.

Lastly, has anyone tried to combat the KDSS lift lean - 1/2" - 3/4" lower passenger side with spacers on the passenger side and did it work? I saw the comment earlier in this thread about the passenger side of the KDSS system/sway bar being locked in a fixed position while the driver side has the piston/reservoir system with travel tolerance to lifting but not really certain this is true. Any expertise or experience here will be very helpful.

I will do a write up with photos of my experience. I'm going to try like hell to get in without a lean if possible.

 

[TK-422]

I left mine in the driveway overnight with both ends disconnected and the center KDSS mounts were loosened so it could sway free. I jacked the sway bar near the KDSS ram then stuck a jack stand under it overnight.

Like the first post (Step 10) you connect the passenger side first then as you use a jack under the KDSS ram to slowly bring the drivers side up and at the same back with a ratchet strap between the sway bar and the LCA to pull them together.

The brackets that connect the sway bar to the LCA have to hook in underneath the LCA then swing the top back as it goes up.

I used a cheap 1" sacrificial ratchet strap and just cut it off when I was done.

Great write up and comments in this thread. Nice to see.

I'm a new 2016 Trail Premium owner with KDSS. I just ordered an ICON Stage 7 kit with the ICON rear bump stops and shin guards and will be doing the install myself with a couple local SF Bay Area forum guys who own 3rd gens (since I just upgraded from a 3rd gen). Any local 5th Gen'ers are welcome too, as it might be a valuable learning experience if you have similar lift plans.

I'll be renting a shop with a lift to make the install easier vs. floor jacks. I want to prevent the KDSS bar from hanging when disconnected so as not to damage the KDSS reservoirs. I saw the comment about ratchet strapping and wondering what to ratchet the KDSS bar to? The axle? And will that require 2 straps - one on each side to keep it fairly level? Pics would be helpful if anyone has any.

Lastly, has anyone tried to combat the KDSS lift lean - 1/2" - 3/4" lower passenger side with spacers on the passenger side and did it work? I saw the comment earlier in this thread about the passenger side of the KDSS system/sway bar being locked in a fixed position while the driver side has the piston/reservoir system with travel tolerance to lifting but not really certain this is true. Any expertise or experience here will be very helpful.

I will do a write up with photos of my experience. I'm going to try like hell to get in without a lean if possible.

 

[Flingwinger]

I put a ratchet strap around the front Kdss piston and snugged it up before removal of the sway bar. You can strap the ratchet strap completely around the piston assembly and onto itself, this will hold the cylinder in position but still allow it to pivot. When it came to reinstalling, I installed the passenger side bracket loosely then removed the strap. I then used the jack to manipulate the piston and the ratchet strap around the Drivers side LCA-sway bar - a point on the frame to pull from. It took just a couple minutes of finding the right position with the jack and ratcheting the bar in to get it done up. Not much trouble at all. With the help of this guide I was able to install my icon kit in 4 hours on my own on the garage floor.

 

[pbcolt]

How long did it take you guys overall do to the lift and UCA's (if you did them). I don't have the space..or confidence..to do it myself so I'll be paying for a shop to do the install. Trying to figure out what a reasonable cost for install is. Lift is OME with Camburg Ball Joint UCA's.

 

[mwray8909]

How long did it take you guys overall do to the lift and UCA's (if you did them). I don't have the space..or confidence..to do it myself so I'll be paying for a shop to do the install. Trying to figure out what a reasonable cost for install is. Lift is OME with Camburg Ball Joint UCA's.

I can help you out man a shop is going to charge you like 400 or so. I did my own.

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[WannnaBeTRD]

Want to thank you for posting the helpful, detailed instructions. My '16 is now a few inches taller thanks to all of you. Appreciate it.

 

[Brandonium]

So how many who have lifted with KDSS have experienced lean in the front? As far as I am concerned for a process to be complete AND successful all the results from the lifting process need to have a process to follow for remedy. I'm surprised that some in this thread are ok with a lean bias towards one side. I would not be one of those people who would be 'Meh it leans but it's fine with me'.

That being said, I read in the LC forums that some who experienced lean bias on one side did so because they disconnected KDSS while the vehicle had the wheels on the ground and that KDSS re-calibration was necessary but when they disconnected KDSS with the vehicle off the ground that there was no lean.

Before I dive into this it would be nice to know why some are experiencing lean while others are not. Having spacers on hand just in case this happens to you seems like a band aid no?

Would be also nice to know if those who replaced the entire assembly via pulling down the LCA experienced any lean since they didn't have to disconnect KDSS in the front. I'll be replacing the entire assembly OME BP51's so I would feel better not disconnecting unless there's a better answer as to why people are getting the lean.

 

[jpachard]

So how many who have lifted with KDSS have experienced lean in the front? As far as I am concerned for a process to be complete AND successful all the results from the lifting process need to have a process to follow for remedy. I'm surprised that some in this thread are ok with a lean bias towards one side. I would not be one of those people who would be 'Meh it leans but it's fine with me'.



That being said, I read in the LC forums that some who experienced lean bias on one side did so because they disconnected KDSS while the vehicle had the wheels on the ground and that KDSS re-calibration was necessary but when they disconnected KDSS with the vehicle off the ground that there was no lean.



Before I dive into this it would be nice to know why some are experiencing lean while others are not. Having spacers on hand just in case this happens to you seems like a band aid no?



Would be also nice to know if those who replaced the entire assembly via pulling down the LCA experienced any lean since they didn't have to disconnect KDSS in the front. I'll be replacing the entire assembly OME BP51's so I would feel better not disconnecting unless there's a better answer as to why people are getting the lean.

So, here is my experience, along with some explanation of what's causing the lean.

The lean is caused by a couple things, first by different spring rates and preload( see later topic on spring perch settings), second by the fact that one side of the sway bar in the kdss setup is fixed in height, final cause is vehicle loading such as fuel loads, driver weight etc, etc.

My preference is to get my vehicles as close to level with a full tank of gas and driver on board. Coming from a race car background, we try to get the load on each corner as close as possible, relative to the platform. What I mean by that is a Porsche 911 will carry more weight on its rear wheels vs a Mini Cooper that will carry more on the front due to vehicle layout. As a side note, I haven't corner balanced my 4Runner yet but would like to in the coming months.

All this said, on my truck, I chose to run the trd pro shocks up front. When I received the shocks, Toyota set them up with the drivers side perch in the upper position, thus adding more preload to that spring and as a result, more lift. I installed the shocks and noticed I was getting significant lean to the passenger side. Partially due to the different spring rate and partially due to the fixed side of the kdss sway bar being on the passenger side in front. Luckily, I was able to change the spring perch on the passenger side shock up to match he drivers side and now my truck sits level. For those with the Bilstein trd shocks or the 6100 and other series this technique can be applied in order to get the desired result.

Long story short, with kdss, you should make sure you select a shock package that allows you to adjust preload to attain your desired leveling, yet in my experience it seems to be pretty close. The fuel and driver loads seem to balance out the static passenger side sway bar mount.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, James


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[Brandonium]

That does help! I know that shock and lift packages vary so not all is equal but having a general idea of why many are having the lean and a way to address it helps.

The BP51 has the ability for adjustments with both rebound and compression as well as preload adjustments (via spring compressor tool).

I guess the best way to approach this is to install and see how she sits and if there is bias to one side then dig in and adjust preload on that side?

So, here is my experience, along with some explanation of what's causing the lean.

The lean is caused by a couple things, first by different spring rates and preload( see later topic on spring perch settings), second by the fact that one side of the sway bar in the kdss setup is fixed in height, final cause is vehicle loading such as fuel loads, driver weight etc, etc.

My preference is to get my vehicles as close to level with a full tank of gas and driver on board. Coming from a race car background, we try to get the load on each corner as close as possible, relative to the platform. What I mean by that is a Porsche 911 will carry more weight on its rear wheels vs a Mini Cooper that will carry more on the front due to vehicle layout. As a side note, I haven't corner balanced my 4Runner yet but would like to in the coming months.

All this said, on my truck, I chose to run the trd pro shocks up front. When I received the shocks, Toyota set them up with the drivers side perch in the upper position, thus adding more preload to that spring and as a result, more lift. I installed the shocks and noticed I was getting significant lean to the passenger side. Partially due to the different spring rate and partially due to the fixed side of the kdss sway bar being on the passenger side in front. Luckily, I was able to change the spring perch on the passenger side shock up to match he drivers side and now my truck sits level. For those with the Bilstein trd shocks or the 6100 and other series this technique can be applied in order to get the desired result.

Long story short, with kdss, you should make sure you select a shock package that allows you to adjust preload to attain your desired leveling, yet in my experience it seems to be pretty close. The fuel and driver loads seem to balance out the static passenger side sway bar mount.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, James


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[Flingwinger]

I don't have any lean and the front coils are set at the exact same height on both sides. The rear spacers however are slightly different in thickness to compensate for fuel tank weight, truck measures even left to right for both front and rear wheel wells. If there was lean on the front, I'd let the springs settle by driving for a couple days then adjust one side or the other to compensate. Take it for a drive over some bumps between adjustments. It's amazing how much my springs settled in a week.

Took me 4 hours to install on my own, on the garage floor. It's not bad, don't even need many tool.

 

[jpachard]

That does help! I know that shock and lift packages vary so not all is equal but having a general idea of why many are having the lean and a way to address it helps.



The BP51 has the ability for adjustments with both rebound and compression as well as preload adjustments (via spring compressor tool).



I guess the best way to approach this is to install and see how she sits and if there is bias to one side then dig in and adjust preload on that side?

Yes, exactly. Something I forgot to mention is I went with .5" toytec spacers up front as well in order to get the lift I wanted. It's always best to try and get the desired lift and leveling through mechanical means first, then use the preload to do the fine tuning. The goal is to use as little preload as possible in order to keep the initial suspension travel as soft as possible.

Once again I hope this helps, feel free to pm me if you need any help.

Cheers, James


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[Brandonium]

I definitely will.. and when the time comes to do my particular setup I'll document as best as possible to add to this. :whip:

Yes, exactly. Something I forgot to mention is I went with .5" toytec spacers up front as well in order to get the lift I wanted. It's always best to try and get the desired lift and leveling through mechanical means first, then use the preload to do the fine tuning. The goal is to use as little preload as possible in order to keep the initial suspension travel as soft as possible.

Once again I hope this helps, feel free to pm me if you need any help.

Cheers, James


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