UnphazedT4R
New member
Great information in this thread....thanks to all who contributed! Looking forward to selecting and installing a lift on my new silver 2016 TEP W/KDSS.
How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)
- Thread starter eddiebx
- Start date
Congratulations on the purchase, you will love it. Just make sure to try out the Crawl control and trac in an area you are familiar with on both ascending and descending terrain, it feels funny at first but the capabilities are really impressive.
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mattyrides07
New member
[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]- I'm going to install my ICON suspension on my KDSS momentarily. Depending on the results of your instructions I'll either owe you a beer or a punch in the face... I'm hoping for the beer. *fingers crossed*
Seriously though, thanks for your time and effort building this post.
Seriously though, thanks for your time and effort building this post.
mattyrides07
New member
I ended up calling it a night early. Everything is pretty straight forward. The KDSS is a PITA trying to get back on the front though. Rear end tomorrow and mount tires.
mwray8909
New member
Ratchet straps are your friend. That's what we used and it made life 10Xs easier.
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craigster59
New member
Ok, here it is in a nutshell. I've got a '16 Trail Premium w/ KDSS. I've got a Toytec 3" ultimate lift with SPC UCA's ready to install. I've talked to a few suspension places in SFV and Santa Clarita and the blank stares and sketchy responses from their techs have me reconsidering farming it out (hey, I'm a busy guy).
After reading numerous threads, I think I may just tackle this on my own with the help of my son. I've been wrenching many years on Toyotas I've owned, LC's and Tacomas. My son has done suspension work but mostly to get lower to the ground as opposed to up in the air. Also, my Dad was a TV repairman so he's got a killer set of tools.
Question is, can I strap the KDSS pistons for the front and not unattach from the LCA's since I'm doing UCA's also? Any tips or tricks? If I have to go the conventional route that's fine I just don't want to start yanking and reinstalling things that I don't have to. TIA!
After reading numerous threads, I think I may just tackle this on my own with the help of my son. I've been wrenching many years on Toyotas I've owned, LC's and Tacomas. My son has done suspension work but mostly to get lower to the ground as opposed to up in the air. Also, my Dad was a TV repairman so he's got a killer set of tools.
Question is, can I strap the KDSS pistons for the front and not unattach from the LCA's since I'm doing UCA's also? Any tips or tricks? If I have to go the conventional route that's fine I just don't want to start yanking and reinstalling things that I don't have to. TIA!
mattyrides07
New member
Just got done with it this weekend. I replaced my OEM with coilovers and UCAs. The front KDSS is a PITA but TOTALLY doable. Follow the OPs instructions and you'll be fine. Seriously, between the OP directions and Antmans you have a step by step how to. I did it solo and it took about 10 hours total. I had a couple hang ups that took longer than it should have.
mattyrides07
New member
Thanks for the offer. Ended up fishing it up today.
Cytronus
New member
mattyrides07
New member
Went well. Only a couple hiccups:
1. I needed to take off front wheels to properly get angle on the pry for the front KDSS AND had to use another person to help thread bolt as I pushed the KDSS bar.
2. Ended up cross-threading a rear lower shock bolt because I started to get in a hurry to finish. I didn't notice the shock mount wasn't properly lined up and sitting flush before tightening bolt. Fix was to retap new threads in female end and get a new bolt.
3. Wheel spacers didn't come with EXT lug nuts. Waiting on said nuts now.
I've been rough on the suspension the past couple days since completing the lift; I'm trying to shake everything loose. I noticed yesterday my front end drooped a crap ton. Going to raise the front end up to parallel with rear before the alignment and tire change over.
How you liking your Stage 7?
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mattyrides07
New member
here is a series if before and after shots the day of lift. The rear is a little squatted because I had (5) 285X70X17 tires in the back.
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craigster59
New member
Annnd We have liftoff! Installed the Toytec 3" Ultimate and SPC UCA's on Saturday. Front KDSS wasn't bad thanks to this "how to" thread and thanks to Matt (mwray8909) for the advice and "phone a friend" tech support!
The rear springs were tough, couldn't get the axle to drop enough to fish them in there, had to disconnect a bunch of clips and wires and also the diagonal cross bar. But it got done and the biggest takeaway tips are ratchet straps and floor, bottle and scissor jacks.
The rear springs were tough, couldn't get the axle to drop enough to fish them in there, had to disconnect a bunch of clips and wires and also the diagonal cross bar. But it got done and the biggest takeaway tips are ratchet straps and floor, bottle and scissor jacks.
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craigster59
New member
And another handy dandy tool that made the job much easier, a HF impact wrench.
1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench
1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench
trapshot68
New member
Looks good. Pics like these make me want to tear into mine also.
And I don't know why, but the first time I glanced at that pic quickly, i'm like "holy hell that's a pushbar setup on the front....."
:|
And I don't know why, but the first time I glanced at that pic quickly, i'm like "holy hell that's a pushbar setup on the front....."
:|
<snip>
craigster59
New member
Too funny! Actually besides making it better off road, the main on road benefit is no more "nose dive" with hard braking. Ride is much smoother also.
mattyrides07
New member
Hugo Stiglitz
Member
Wow great how to and thread..
To the OP,
Im only going to add Bilstein 5100 adjustable's at the .85 mark (BTW the shocks aren't here yet, there are 4 settings correct, lowest is stock, 2nd is .85, 3rd is 1.75 and 4th 2.5...... correct?)
In the simplest of terms, the long and short of swapping out the strut on the KDSS set up is - unbolt the sway bar/kdss, loosen cam bolts, unbolt bottom shock bolt, unbolt top 3 strut bolts OR the damper nut and remove 2 bottom bolts then pulling everything down and out except the top plate.... and the strut should pull out(with some persuasion) (then of course reverse it all and tackle the sway bar with fine tuning and movement till its back on.
Does this sound right.... maybe down the road new UCA's and stuff but my 4Runner has 200 miles on it, just want to raise the front end a little and break her in
And thanks again OP for the great write up and step by step.
To the OP,
Im only going to add Bilstein 5100 adjustable's at the .85 mark (BTW the shocks aren't here yet, there are 4 settings correct, lowest is stock, 2nd is .85, 3rd is 1.75 and 4th 2.5...... correct?)
In the simplest of terms, the long and short of swapping out the strut on the KDSS set up is - unbolt the sway bar/kdss, loosen cam bolts, unbolt bottom shock bolt, unbolt top 3 strut bolts OR the damper nut and remove 2 bottom bolts then pulling everything down and out except the top plate.... and the strut should pull out(with some persuasion) (then of course reverse it all and tackle the sway bar with fine tuning and movement till its back on.
Does this sound right.... maybe down the road new UCA's and stuff but my 4Runner has 200 miles on it, just want to raise the front end a little and break her in
And thanks again OP for the great write up and step by step.
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Great thread.
I may have missed it, but if I am replacing the UCAs at the same time, does that simplify anything? I was hoping that I wouldn't have to unbolt the bottom two bolts by the lower ball joint which the instructions mentioned.
I also noticed the use of straps for the sway bar and KDSS piston. Before unbolting everything, would you simply connect the strap in a manner that prevents the piston from extending? I was trying to figure out where the strap end would connect.
I may have missed it, but if I am replacing the UCAs at the same time, does that simplify anything? I was hoping that I wouldn't have to unbolt the bottom two bolts by the lower ball joint which the instructions mentioned.
I also noticed the use of straps for the sway bar and KDSS piston. Before unbolting everything, would you simply connect the strap in a manner that prevents the piston from extending? I was trying to figure out where the strap end would connect.
Brandonium
Member
So perhaps others can chime in but I will give my .02. I don't plan on removing anything KDSS related on the front when installing my coil-overs and replacing my UCA. The King instructions for their setups simply have you pulling down the LCA and inserting the shock/coil assembly. I believe others here have done the same. The rear does need to be disconnected though.
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