Ask10
New member
Hi all,
**For a 5VZ-FE motor. I don't know if this can be applied at all to the 2.7, I haven't worked on one before.**
Just wanted to chip in what I did to unstick a really stubborn crank pulley bolt.
I tried the following with no luck
-Strap tool (broke)
-Removing the radiator and using a 600 ft/lb impact
I didn't use the starter bump method because, well, that still left me with no options on being able to TIGHTEN the pulley bolt too. I get annoyed when people suggest ways of getting something off, but not how to put it back on. That's what I set out to do with this tool I made.
So there are people who say "Okay, just make a tool. All you need is a welder, grinder, saw, and a template." Never mind that it's rather difficult to get the template just right, get the holes lined up right, weld the "knobs" in the correct place, etc. Such a waste of time if you ask me, so I wanted to show everyone what worked for me.
What you need is to go to a hardware store and buy the following.
A flat bar with punched holes in it. $5.61
Crown Bolt 1-3/8 in. x 36 in. Zinc Steel Punched Flat Bar with 1/16 in. Thick-18040 at The Home Depot
One grade 3/8" GRADE 8 bolt. $.80 for me.
Step 1: Remove your power steering pump off of it's bracket so that this top bolt hole is accessible. Since your timing belt is being done, your serpentine belts will already be off.
Step 2: You will need to slightly enlarge one of the holes in near the end of your bar to fit the bolt that secures the power steering pump on top. Hope that made sense.
Step 3: Feed the bolt through the slightly enlarged hole and bolt it down.
Step 4: Align the crank pulley (19 mm socket) so that the crank pulley hole lines up with a corresponding hole in the metal bar.
Step 5: Screw in the GRADE 8 bolt into the crank pulley. I'd suggest getting a longer bolt than I did, but this one worked for me, barely. When all is said and done, it looks like this.
Step 6: Attach a breaker bar/socket combo with LAEB (Long A** Extension Bar) to the crank pulley bolt and give it heaps. My bolt came out seemingly easy, although a very unnerving crack was heard at first when it broke loose. Nothing was damaged though.
Now the best part is, if you want to tighten the bolt down, simply put the tool here and go for it! Works both ways.
Okay, hope this helped anyone.
Enjoy
Ask10
**For a 5VZ-FE motor. I don't know if this can be applied at all to the 2.7, I haven't worked on one before.**
Just wanted to chip in what I did to unstick a really stubborn crank pulley bolt.
I tried the following with no luck
-Strap tool (broke)
-Removing the radiator and using a 600 ft/lb impact
I didn't use the starter bump method because, well, that still left me with no options on being able to TIGHTEN the pulley bolt too. I get annoyed when people suggest ways of getting something off, but not how to put it back on. That's what I set out to do with this tool I made.
So there are people who say "Okay, just make a tool. All you need is a welder, grinder, saw, and a template." Never mind that it's rather difficult to get the template just right, get the holes lined up right, weld the "knobs" in the correct place, etc. Such a waste of time if you ask me, so I wanted to show everyone what worked for me.
What you need is to go to a hardware store and buy the following.
A flat bar with punched holes in it. $5.61
Crown Bolt 1-3/8 in. x 36 in. Zinc Steel Punched Flat Bar with 1/16 in. Thick-18040 at The Home Depot
One grade 3/8" GRADE 8 bolt. $.80 for me.
Step 1: Remove your power steering pump off of it's bracket so that this top bolt hole is accessible. Since your timing belt is being done, your serpentine belts will already be off.
Step 2: You will need to slightly enlarge one of the holes in near the end of your bar to fit the bolt that secures the power steering pump on top. Hope that made sense.
Step 3: Feed the bolt through the slightly enlarged hole and bolt it down.
Step 4: Align the crank pulley (19 mm socket) so that the crank pulley hole lines up with a corresponding hole in the metal bar.
Step 5: Screw in the GRADE 8 bolt into the crank pulley. I'd suggest getting a longer bolt than I did, but this one worked for me, barely. When all is said and done, it looks like this.
Step 6: Attach a breaker bar/socket combo with LAEB (Long A** Extension Bar) to the crank pulley bolt and give it heaps. My bolt came out seemingly easy, although a very unnerving crack was heard at first when it broke loose. Nothing was damaged though.
Now the best part is, if you want to tighten the bolt down, simply put the tool here and go for it! Works both ways.
Okay, hope this helped anyone.
Enjoy
Ask10
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