How to make spare chipped keys

I bought a new key (VW looking type 2 in 1 key) from ebay and just received it today. I'm having it cut by the dealership using my VIN and will program later. this is my third key since the second one (2 in 1 as well - not the vw looking key but a folding key too) is broken again after a few years of use.

I noticed the new vw looking key I have seems to be sturdy and strong.

update: I did follow the instruction from the 1st post, it seems to accept the key and register in the system. However, my remote control don't work. It looks like this instruction is only for the chipped keys without the remote.
 
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I bought a new key (VW looking type 2 in 1 key) from ebay and just received it today. I'm having it cut by the dealership using my VIN and will program later. this is my third key since the second one (2 in 1 as well - not the vw looking key but a folding key too) is broken again after a few years of use.

I noticed the new vw looking key I have seems to be sturdy and strong.

update: I did follow the instruction from the 1st post, it seems to accept the key and register in the system. However, my remote control don't work. It looks like this instruction is only for the chipped keys without the remote.

You probably have to progam the remote seperately, you should be able to program using the same procedure as a OEM remote.
 
Many searching of the internets has left me empty handed trying to find one of these. Anyone know where I can get one? I have a flip key but its still kinda bulky compared to the key with the buttons built into it..

You can find keys with the same FCC ID (HYQ12BBX) on eBay but I still don't think it would work since some of the other numbers probably aren't the same as what the 4runner is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgraded-R...47def2e:g:BrIAAOSwEfBbaA7D:rk:14:pf:0&vxp=mtr
 

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I recently came across this and did my research both on here and on various other forums.
Some said that it has to be programmed by a dealer/locksmith and some said that only the keys with a small dot near the end of the key blade works. Some also mentioned that walmart/home depot would cut the key.

However most of those information might not be the truth based on my experience. I'm willing to provide a small guide on this for those in need.

How to get a key blank

I bought the key blank from a seller on Amazon and there was no small dot on the key blade at all but it works.Those found on ebay might also work.
So just buy the cheapest one which says "for 03-09 4runner"
Should be less than 20 bucks shipped.

How to cut

I at first went to walmart but they refused to cut it because I didn't buy the key blank from them. Home depot and lowe's did the same thing.
So I asked a local locksmith and he did it for just 5 bucks. (just FYI those keys are made of brass, not steel, so most locksmiths would be able to cut them.)

How to program

Actually it's a super easy if you still have one master key that can start your 4runner. There was a pdf somewhere about how to do it on a Prado but
its not very clear(it would ask you to remove the key from ignition 3 times without mentioning putting it back in at all:eek:) so I'll try to provide a clearer one here:

1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)

2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)

3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)
Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)

4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))

5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)

Then just sit there and wait, after about one minute the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.

Whole process need to be repeated for any additional keys, the just programmed key could be used as the "old key" for the additional keys.

If there are 5 master keys registered with the immobilizer, it won't accept any more(and I don't know how would it tell you this, so just do a erase if you can't get it to work after trying for a few times). You have to erase them using a similar method(bring in just an old key, insert+remove one more time and open+close one more time, after the 7th close of the driver's door the immobilizer light will stay lighted for one second, remove the old key quickly after that and all but that one you just removed are erased.)

If you don't have any working master key(meaning you only have valet keys). Then I've no idea what could you do other than ask for help from a dealership.

Total cost is less than $25 if you still have at least 1 working master key. Less than 1/5 of what my local dealership wants.

Hope this would be useful for those in need, please post your results if you decided to give this a try.

I did this last weekend and was unable to get the procedure to work to program my new chipped keys (eBay). So I grabbed a beer and gave it some thought. I also pulled up a youtube video of how to do it. First thing I noticed on the video was that the chime for the key in ignition came on each time the door was opened. That didn't happen in my truck, so I went out and figured out what was going on. Turns out that my plunger switch that drives interior light wasn't making good contact. I'd get the chime sometimes, and not others, so opening and closing the door six times didn't result in 6 chimes. I futzed with the switch so it was working fairly well and ran thru the procedure using my finger to press the switch vs opening/closing the door. I just cycled the switch w my finger until I had achieved 6 chimes and then the programming method worked for my eBay keys.

Sooooo, lesson learned - if your door plunger switch is intermittent like mine, then the programming procedure might not work. Play around w the switch until you can cycle it by hand and get six open door chimes in a row and you should be good.
 
Does it have to be the master key? if so im going to put my master in a safe place and use the back up! nice write up!

NO! I bought my 4R used, and the master key was missing.
I made a spare key using the gray valet key.

I found a happy medium between trying to do it myself...
and paying a dealer WAY too much money to do it.
My local hardware store did it...new key and programming for about $80.
 
Looking to get myself a spare key because when I purchased my truck it only came with a single master key and nothing else. Does anyone have an opinion on purchasing an FOB with key that you can get cut and program yourself versus purchasing an FOB and a genuine OEM Toyota transponder key separate? I know we have instructions here, but if anyone has done one or both of those methods which they prefer.

I should also note the key I have now does not turn the driver's side lock from the outside, nor does it work in my tailgate (which is frustrating). Is this because the key is incorrect? How could I go about fixing this? I've tried it in the driver's side and the tailgate and it doesn't budge at all. I'm afraid to put any pressure on it. How would I go about getting a key for my glove box also?
 
Looking to get myself a spare key because when I purchased my truck it only came with a single master key and nothing else. Does anyone have an opinion on purchasing an FOB with key that you can get cut and program yourself versus purchasing an FOB and a genuine OEM Toyota transponder key separate? I know we have instructions here, but if anyone has done one or both of those methods which they prefer.

I should also note the key I have now does not turn the driver's side lock from the outside, nor does it work in my tailgate (which is frustrating). Is this because the key is incorrect? How could I go about fixing this? I've tried it in the driver's side and the tailgate and it doesn't budge at all. I'm afraid to put any pressure on it. How would I go about getting a key for my glove box also?

It sounds like your ignition has been replaced, so it would be keyed different than all the orginal locks, the master key should fit/operate all locks and ignition, and also the valet/gray key should operate all locks and ignition except the glovebox.

Getting a dealer to cut you a master key via the VIN number should fit all the other locks but if the ignition has been replaced it most likely will not fit the ignition.
 
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It sounds like your ignition has been replaced, so it would be keyed different than all the orginal locks, the master key should fit/operate all locks and ignition, and also the valet/gray key should operate all locks and ignition except the glovebox.

Getting a dealer to cut you a master key via the VIN number should fit all the other locks but if the ignition has been replaced it most likely will not fit the ignition.

Crap. I'm guessing that would be an expensive thing for the dealership to do. And this all started with just wanting a spare key made, which I can do -- but it won't unlock everything like it should. Ugh.
 
Just saved me $135 at the stealership. Bought and got the key cut by VIN for $30 programmed it myself and am good to go.

Thanks

Crap. I'm guessing that would be an expensive thing for the dealership to do. And this all started with just wanting a spare key made, which I can do -- but it won't unlock everything like it should. Ugh.

That would depend on if you get the dealer to do it all, sell you the key blank, cut via the VIN and then program the key.

If you see the post I also quoted here, he says he got his key cut via the VIN at the dealer for $30 and programmed it his self, what is not clear is if that included the key blank being bought from the dealer or he bought it maybe elsewhere like eBay, which I asked him to clarify but we will have to wait to see if he responds.

Having the dealer do the programming can be costly but you can do it yourself by following instructions here on the forum.
 
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That would depend on if you get the dealer to do it all, sell you the key blank, cut via the VIN and then program the key.

If you see the post I also quoted here, he says he got his key cut via the VIN at the dealer for $30 and programmed it his self, what is not clear is if that included the key blank being bought from the dealer or he bought it maybe elsewhere like eBay, which I asked him to clarify but we will have to wait to see if he responds.

Having the dealer do the programming can be costly but you can do it yourself by following instructions here on the forum.

Yeah I guess it doesn't matter which method I use at this point. It sounds like no matter what I'm not going to have a key that unlocks the driver's door or the tailgate.
 
Yeah I guess it doesn't matter which method I use at this point. It sounds like no matter what I'm not going to have a key that unlocks the driver's door or the tailgate.

If you can get ahold of your key code, you could have a cheap blank (like $10) cut to it by a locksmith if the dealer wants too much. ACE might even be able to too. Not sure if they can cut the key by code, though. That would open your doors, or at least let you test if the reason your ignition key doesn't open the doors is because the ignition was changed. And then you at least have a spare that can work in the tailgate/door locks in case your battery is dead or something.

As for having a spare ignition key that's all-in-one, I bought a flipkey style one and had it cut at ACE, who didn't even charge me, and then programmed it myself. I didn't really like the separate key and fob style that it came with.
 
Hey all,

I am running into issues with the programming and guessing it's because I have a gray valet key and not a master key. Basically the immobilizer light won't stay lit after the final door shut part.

So, should I just go have one single master key made with one of these Amazon keys, and then program the other one myself? Two local lock smiths want $110 a pop, and that seems crazy.
 
Hey all,

I am running into issues with the programming and guessing it's because I have a gray valet key and not a master key. Basically the immobilizer light won't stay lit after the final door shut part.

So, should I just go have one single master key made with one of these Amazon keys, and then program the other one myself? Two local lock smiths want $110 a pop, and that seems crazy.

You can have a master cut from the VIN at a dealer or using the keycode by an auto locksmith
$110 sounds like they're cutting it from the door lock or ignition itself which takes some trial and error and extra time.

There's a little metal tag with the keycode engraved on it that came with the 4runner at initial delivery, if you don't have it anymore you can pull the door lock assembly off , the keycode is engraved on it. Tutorial here: DIY: Exterior Door Handle Removal (door lock disassembly instructions are further down the thread)

A good auto locksmith should be able to cut a new master using that code.
It's kind of a dying trade with everything going electronic these days so you'll have to call around to find a good locksmith. My Acura TLX doesn't have a door lock key or ignition key at all :crazy: LOL
 
Hey all,

I am running into issues with the programming and guessing it's because I have a gray valet key and not a master key. Basically the immobilizer light won't stay lit after the final door shut part.

So, should I just go have one single master key made with one of these Amazon keys, and then program the other one myself? Two local lock smiths want $110 a pop, and that seems crazy.

You can have a master cut from the VIN at a dealer or using the keycode by an auto locksmith
$110 sounds like they're cutting it from the door lock or ignition itself which takes some trial and error and extra time.

There's a little metal tag with the keycode engraved on it that came with the 4runner at initial delivery, if you don't have it anymore you can pull the door lock assembly off , the keycode is engraved on it. Tutorial here: DIY: Exterior Door Handle Removal (door lock disassembly instructions are further down the thread)

A good auto locksmith should be able to cut a new master using that code.
It's kind of a dying trade with everything going electronic these days so you'll have to call around to find a good locksmith. My Acura TLX doesn't have a door lock key or ignition key at all :crazy: LOL

Your biggest issue here is that without a master key that is already programmed you can't program a new master key, unfortunately the high price is because the new master key will have to be programmed either at the dealer or if the locksmith has the proper progammer to program it too the ECU from scratch, if it were me I would get the key cut at the dealer using the VIN number and either have them program it or let the locksmith do the programming, whichever is the cheapest, if you pull the door lock and get the key code if you don't have the code tag, which I doubt you have since you don't have a master key it would come out much cheaper then cutting via the VIN, if you don't figure in your time/labor for the R&R of the door lock.
 
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Happy to report I was able to reset my immobilizer and program the hell out of some master keys without ever having a master key. Thanks to a informative thread over here I got an MVCI cable from Amazon, and Techstream, and I was off to the races. $25 for the cable, $6 for the cut new transponder keys (unprogrammed), $25 for 5 immobilizer key code tokens, and I was off to the races.

Dealership wanted over $350 to reset my immobilizer and register a new master key. Local locksmith 1 screwed up and just cloned my Valet key for $110 after I specifically asked if this would be a "Master key". No refund given there, so lesson learned. Local locksmith 2 knew what I was asking for and wanted $110 to do it, so I said I'll call you back later this week knowing I'd only call if the cable/techstream didn't work.

So, even though I spent $166 all told on this endeavor, I have the know-how to do it again for the cost of a key cut. If anyone in Denver needs a hand because previous owner hosed you and only gave you a valet key, let me know.
 
Thank you for starting this thread. I just did two keys for my 2008 V8 Limited

Two key blanks cost me $16 on Amazon. My local dealer charged me $10 to cut both keys from my VIN. So, for $26 I was able to get two spare keys.


Also, this procedure will work on a 2004 Lexus ES 330 (I added a key to my wife's car this way). I suspect it will work for most Toyota/Lexus vehicles of this era.
 
We have 2000 Limited Edition 4x4. Lost keys(2). Bought entire new switch with keys. Cant get new keys to reset. Help appreeciated.
 

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