How to remove skid plate?

crespoh69

Member
Hey guys, over the weekend I tried to remove the stock skid plate, my understanding is that there's 5 bolts and I removed them, only to find that it didn't even try to fall on my face. How do you remove it? I tried banging it, pulling it down, rocking it back and forth but nothing. I need to get at the AC belt to tighten it.
 
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It has a 'hook' of sorts connecting the 2nd one to the first one, might have to remove the 2nd one or at least the 2nd one's front bolts to let it drop just enough to let the hook go. Pain putting it back too....
 
I had to remove the skid plate in order to do an oil change a few weeks ago. Removal was easy for me. It was 4 bolts - one of them was a different size, must be something the previous owner did. The skid plate has hook like things toward the front of the car so you have to wiggle it a little bit. I definitely saw it sagging as I kept unbolting one by one. Putting it back was a pain since you have to use one hand to hold it up and line it up and another hand to tighten the bolts. I ended up using the stock jack that comes with the vehicle to prop it up to where I needed it while I bolted it back on.
 
The undercover has 2 parts, front and rear. There are nine bolts involved, but only 7 attaching the undercover to the car, and the other 2 holding the two pieces of the undercover to each other. You only have to remove 7 if you are cool with removing the entire undercover assembly instead of just the front part. That's what I do. There are 3 up front, two in the rear, and two "hidden' in the middle. If you can get underneath and position yourself to actually see all the bolt holes, it'll all come clear. It's worth jacking up the front of the vehicle or putting the car on a lift or ramps once, in order to grok where all the fasteners are. On mine they're all 12mm hex bolts.
 
They all should be 12 mm bolts. If not, someone in the past changed a bolt or 2.

To change the oil on v6 3rd gen. You can reach through the driver side wheel well under the front flap to get to the filter. That's how I do it. I only pull my front engine skid when needed and its very easy to do.

Pulling up on ramps gives you more room to work if you wish. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Unless you are the original owner, many skid plate sets have a couple missing or different length bolts from 20 years of removals (draining the radiator, diff oil, etc). I would really like to get a full set of Savage skids and am hoping for a Black Friday deal of some kind. I could pick them up in SoCal to save shipping, too. I am a little concerned that they could be easily stolen overnight unless I get some fancy fasteners to slow them down until I can get a bead on them (City life).
 
Putting it back was a pain
Don't get aftermarket skids, then!

The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie
 
Don't get aftermarket skids, then!

The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie

Impact wrench optional but very nice for this.
 
The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie

Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.
 
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Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.

I use the slop as rust inhibiting solutions...:D
 
Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.
Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie
 
Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie

Yes, these look interesting, I had looked into one. But I like my magnetic drain plug, and it gives me a chance to have a look around under there and check for any leaks or problems.
 
Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie

Nice idea.. I too have been thinking easier ways to do Oil change... fumoto drain valve sounds like top option...

so that leaves the OIL FILTER???...
how do you get it out with the skid plates in there...

right now... I usually take skid plate off before going to quick oil change place...they only charge me $35 out the door and there are pretty good. But I can't risk them jacking up the skid plates.

Anybody ever take a Holesaw to the skid plate for easy access direct???
 
Nice idea.. I too have been thinking easier ways to do Oil change... fumoto drain valve sounds like top option...

so that leaves the OIL FILTER???...
how do you get it out with the skid plates in there...

right now... I usually take skid plate off before going to quick oil change place...they only charge me $35 out the door and there are pretty good. But I can't risk them jacking up the skid plates.

Anybody ever take a Holesaw to the skid plate for easy access direct???

Sorry, you remove the skid plate and then take it in to be serviced? At that point, why not just complete the job?
 
Nice idea.. I too have been thinking easier ways to do Oil change... fumoto drain valve sounds like top option...

so that leaves the OIL FILTER???...
how do you get it out with the skid plates in there...

right now... I usually take skid plate off before going to quick oil change place...they only charge me $35 out the door and there are pretty good. But I can't risk them jacking up the skid plates.

Anybody ever take a Holesaw to the skid plate for easy access direct???

Like brillo_76 said, the filter is easily accessible through the wheel well. Whether or not you make a mess comes down to a little planning.


I recall seeing a YT video where a 3rd Gen overlander dude demonstrates hanging a funnel from a piece of coat hanger to catch and direct the oil during a filter change.
 
Nice idea.. I too have been thinking easier ways to do Oil change... fumoto drain valve sounds like top option...

so that leaves the OIL FILTER???...
how do you get it out with the skid plates in there...

right now... I usually take skid plate off before going to quick oil change place...they only charge me $35 out the door and there are pretty good. But I can't risk them jacking up the skid plates.

Anybody ever take a Holesaw to the skid plate for easy access direct???
Uh, the skid plates aren't in the way of the filter? Turn the wheels to the left, pop a few of the fender liner fasteners, and put a form-a-funnel under the filter to direct the oil down to a drain pan:

gzLDcAjh.jpg


That image is taken from the wheel well. You just reach right in there.

-Charlie
 

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