HVAC blower motor not coming on...what else can I check??

[TheDurk]

Well, to sum up:

Motor is getting ground, does not get 12V+.

Relay has both ground and 12V+ at coil when switch is on HIGH.

Relay has power at the contact.

Relay is good.

Time to do the test I mentioned where you pull the relay and jump the socket from Pin 1 to Pin 2 with key on and switch on HIGH.(Better to put the jumper in first, then turn on the key and switch.)

If motor runs, something above is false. If it does not, there is an open in the blue-red wire between relay Pin 2 and the motor.

Getting close, I'd say.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Well, to sum up:

Motor is getting ground, does not get 12V+.

Relay has both ground and 12V+ at coil when switch is on HIGH.

Relay has power at the contact.

Relay is good.

Time to do the test I mentioned where you pull the relay and jump the socket from Pin 1 to Pin 2 with key on and switch on HIGH.(Better to put the jumper in first, then turn on the key and switch.)

If motor runs, something above is false. If it does not, there is an open in the blue-red wire between relay Pin 2 and the motor.

Getting close, I'd say.

Random side note...I got an e-mail telling me you had responded to the results of the relay pin resistance, but I don't see it in the thread.

Here's a copy-paste from the e-mail, just to get it in the thread

Uhh, the "1" means "open" "no continuity" or infinite resistance. We still haven't tested the relay yet, and everything else is testing good, so we really need to do that where you apply 12V between pins 3 and 5, closing the relay and then measuring resistance between Pins 1 and 2, as shown in the last line here:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/ac/hmr/insp.pdf

I really hope it tests bad. We are running out of things to test.

I'll jump pins 1/2 of the relay THEN turn truck on and switch on HIGH as soon as I get home this afternoon.

Will return with results.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Damn.. Its great to see you guys come out helping with all these diagrams. I'm like saving each each one for whenever I need to do some trouble shooting. Thanks!

It's one thing to have the diagrams, it's another to understand them.

The diagrams I have, the understanding...not so much. That's where the expertise and help of someone like [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] is priceless.

 

[TheDurk]

Random side note...I got an e-mail telling me you had responded to the results of the relay pin resistance, but I don't see it in the thread.

.

Yeah, I deleted that response after I wrote it because I realized I hadn't read one of your posts that made it out-of-date. I thought you hadn't tested the relay.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Yeah, I deleted that response after I wrote it because I realized I hadn't read one of your posts that made it out-of-date. I thought you hadn't tested the relay.

Okay, wasn't sure if you wanted resistance results on the relay still or not, so I went ahead and got that as well. 0.5 ohms between pins 1 and 2 while energized.

In slightly other news, decided to test continuity between the blue/red wire at the blower motor and pin 2 of the relay. NO CONTINUITY! DAMNIT! I was really hoping that I had screwed up the relay test and it was in fact faulty (which, hasn't totally been ruled out yet). Did that first because I couldn't remember where I put the jumper wire I have.

Found the jumper wire (small victories count for me at this point) and tested as suggested...jump relay pins 1 & 2, turn truck "ON", switch set to high...no blower. Further confirmation of a short in the blue/red wire.

Went ahead and checked continuity between relay pin 2 and the AC fuse...have continuity between those points.

Short is:
a) between splice I3 and motor (which could be between splice and IG1-4 or between IG1-4 and blower motor)
b) between relay pin 2 and IG1-10 (which could be between relay pin 2 and splice I3 or between splice I3 and IG1-4)

Am I missing any other possibilities?

Off to testing.

Will be asking for additional advice about how to repair once I find the missing link.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Make that IG1-4 (not 10). Was looking at the wrong IG1 connection. Will edit my previous post.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Okay, now I need some of your brilliance!

Checked continuity of the Blue/Red wire:

1) Relay pin #2 to IG1-4 (female end)...GOOD
2) IG1-4 (male end) to bower motor (B6-2)...GOOD

The wire at the (female end) of the connector is "kinked" pretty good just after it comes out of the connector. Possible when everything is connected that the connection wiggles loose? Unless I'm missing a link in the blue/red wire somewhere, I don't know what else it could be.

Any other troubleshooting steps you can give me?

If a loose connection is to blame, what is your recommended fix for that?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Okay, now I need some of your brilliance!

Checked continuity of the Blue/Red wire:

1) Relay pin #2 to IG1-4 (female end)...GOOD
2) IG1-4 (male end) to bower motor (B6-2)...GOOD

The wire at the (female end) of the connector is "kinked" pretty good just after it comes out of the connector. Possible when everything is connected that the connection wiggles loose? Unless I'm missing a link in the blue/red wire somewhere, I don't know what else it could be.

Any other troubleshooting steps you can give me?

If a loose connection is to blame, what is your recommended fix for that?

Thanks again for your help!

Well, since we still haven't nailed down a cause we can see, I'd rather you check for VOLTAGE at the relay side of the IG1 connector, ideally using a 12V testlight (key on, blower on HIGH). This is what I would have asked you to do, but I don't blame you for forging ahead on your own. Sometimes you can get continuity on a meter through a funky connection but it won't pass enough current to run a motor. Also this will double confirm that everything else is working. We have tested all the pieces separaterly, but we haven't confirmed the relay is passing current to Pin #2.

If the fault is at the kink, you can get a repair wire from the dealer which is a new contact on a short length of wire. You can then pull the old contact, cut its wire, insert the repair wire/contact in the connector, and splice the repair wire to the harness wire. I can get you the p/n for the repair wire, if needed.

Or the ghetto fix is cut both wires at the connector and splice them together, by-passing the connector. I'd prefer to do it right.

It would make sense that fault is at IG1 connector since you got 12V+ at the A/C fuse.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Well, since we still haven't nailed down a cause we can see, I'd rather you check for VOLTAGE at the relay side of the IG1 connector, ideally using a 12V testlight (key on, blower on HIGH). This is what I would have asked you to do, but I don't blame you for forging ahead on your own. Sometimes you can get continuity on a meter through a funky connection but it won't pass enough current to run a motor. Also this will double confirm that everything else is working. We have tested all the pieces separaterly, but we haven't confirmed the relay is passing current to Pin #2.

If the fault is at the kink, you can get a repair wire from the dealer which is a new contact on a short length of wire. You can then pull the old contact, cut its wire, insert the repair wire/contact in the connector, and splice the repair wire to the harness wire. I can get you the p/n for the repair wire, if needed.

Or the ghetto fix is cut both wires at the connector and splice them together, by-passing the connector. I'd prefer to do it right.

I'm with you on wanting it done right, so if you can get me the p/n's that would be great.

On a hunch, and with nothing left (until now) to test. I reconnected everything and re-checked continuity on blue/red between pin #2 on the relay and the blower motor. Still no continuity. I jiggled the blue/red wire at IG1-4 and got continuity. So, loose connection seems to be the culprit.

I'm planning on taking it to South Carolina (5 hour drive) tomorrow for Thanksgiving and having the heater working for the trip would be ideal. For now, I'm going to try to bend the male contact a little to see if it will make good enough contact to give me the blower motor for my trip. I'll order the parts while I'm in SC and fix it right when I get back.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Temporary fix for the holiday weekend:

Wiggled the blue/red wire at IG1-4 to figure out which direction would lead to the best contact with the male plug
Towards the driver door lead to the best results
i.e. Bending the male contact towards the center console would be best
Bend male contact towards the center just a little
Plug connector back in
Continuity good
Wiggle wire all around...continuity not lost
Voltage at blower motor with contact bent is 11.92
Plug everything back in, turn truck on, switch to high, BLOWER WORKS!!

Still plan on FIXING this issue with the appropriate parts, but this should get me through the weekend and a 5 hour drive to see my mom for Thanksgiving.

I *might* have gotten to this point without your help, but there is NO doubt that I would not have gotten here BEFORE my trip without it. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!! Where do I send the six pack (and what kind)?

 

[TheDurk]

I'm with you on wanting it done right, so if you can get me the p/n's that would be great.

On a hunch, and with nothing left (until now) to test. I reconnected everything and re-checked continuity on blue/red between pin #2 on the relay and the blower motor. Still no continuity. I jiggled the blue/red wire at IG1-4 and got continuity. So, loose connection seems to be the culprit.

I'm planning on taking it to South Carolina (5 hour drive) tomorrow for Thanksgiving and having the heater working for the trip would be ideal. For now, I'm going to try to bend the male contact a little to see if it will make good enough contact to give me the blower motor for my trip. I'll order the parts while I'm in SC and fix it right when I get back.

OK, sounds good. The repair wire you need is 82998-12380.

Toyota - TERMINAL, REPAIR W/ WIRE Part Number: 82998-12380

I get that from this wondrous official Toyota document:

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/fetch/48443657/Wire%20Harness%20Repair%20Manual%20%28RM1022E%29.pdf

That allowed me to identify your connector number by looking under 26Pin Female plugs as 90980-11632 and then I saw that Pin 4 is the larger of the two sizes and got that part number. 11632 should be embossed somewhere on the connector. Then you can add 90980 in front of that and you can get the connector number directly. That works for ALL connectors. Feel free to confirm by looking at your IG1 connector. Note that if you buy that part number all you get is the plastic housing, no pins or wires included. But you can reuse old ones if undamaged. You should just need the repair wire.

The above manual also tells you how to get the old contact out which is usually a pain, but with patience and persistence can be done. A set of jeweler's screwdrivers and some fine needle noses will usually substitute for the special tools. It's easier after you have done a few.

Have a nice Thanksgiving.

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Temporary fix for the holiday weekend:

Wiggled the blue/red wire at IG1-4 to figure out which direction would lead to the best contact with the male plug
Towards the driver door lead to the best results
i.e. Bending the male contact towards the center console would be best
Bend male contact towards the center just a little
Plug connector back in
Continuity good
Wiggle wire all around...continuity not lost
Voltage at blower motor with contact bent is 11.92
Plug everything back in, turn truck on, switch to high, BLOWER WORKS!!

Still plan on FIXING this issue with the appropriate parts, but this should get me through the weekend and a 5 hour drive to see my mom for Thanksgiving.

I *might* have gotten to this point without your help, but there is NO doubt that I would not have gotten here BEFORE my trip without it. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!! Where do I send the six pack (and what kind)?

Hey, I just get a kick out of solving these puzzles and helping people out. Plus I'm nineteen years sober and the six would be wasted on me. So you just hoist one for me.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

Hey, I just get a kick out of solving these puzzles and helping people out. Plus I'm nineteen years sober and the six would be wasted on me. So you just hoist one for me.

Well, thanks again! :thumb: Have a Happy Thanksgiving!!

 

[Gondi]

This sounds really similar to a problem I'm facing in my 4th Gen. I can hear the a/c click when I turn it on and off, but turning the fan on and off (even to high) doesn't blow. When driving with the a/c on and the vent open, I can feel cool air coming through without a fan.

Twice after driving for about 15 minutes, the fan started working normally.

 

[hjoconor]

Hey there Gondi- Any updates?

I am having a similar issue but my fan hasn't come back to life. I can feel the warm heat coming through when driving, but no forced air. The problem was noticed right after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I checked all fuses and no luck.

Any ideas appreciated. It's cold. Thanks!
Herb

 

[TheDurk]

Hey there Gondi- Any updates?

I am having a similar issue but my fan hasn't come back to life. I can feel the warm heat coming through when driving, but no forced air. The problem was noticed right after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I checked all fuses and no luck.

Any ideas appreciated. It's cold. Thanks!
Herb

Digital or manual control? Year?

 

[hjoconor]

2003 limited. Digital. I have somewhat got it working again. I took out the cabin filter and pushed the fan with my hand. It was clearly stuck. Not sure if it was frozen or not. I'm aware of the TSB on that but our Temps have been all over the place so I didn't think that was a factor.

Now the fan works on all speeds but has a clear purr or clicking noise. I'm hoping some leaves fell in when I took out the cabin air filter but it sounds more like a dying motor.

I plan to pull it out this weekend and take a look.

 

[TheDurk]

2003 limited. Digital. I have somewhat got it working again. I took out the cabin filter and pushed the fan with my hand. It was clearly stuck. Not sure if it was frozen or not. I'm aware of the TSB on that but our Temps have been all over the place so I didn't think that was a factor.

Now the fan works on all speeds but has a clear purr or clicking noise. I'm hoping some leaves fell in when I took out the cabin air filter but it sounds more like a dying motor.

I plan to pull it out this weekend and take a look.

You're in the wrong forum. 2003 is 4th gen.

If you had a 3rd gen, I'd tell you how to pull the blower motor and clean it. But you had better ask how in the 4th gen forum.

 

[thegipper]

Hey Durk, not to hijack the thread but my blower the other day started making this squeeling/purring noise randomly. Not super loud but noticeable. The second I turn the blower off, noise is gone.

Yesterday, it didn't make any funky noises at all. It may never show up or maybe it will. How hard is it to remove the blower? Maybe it needs some oil or something? Maybe something is in there?

97 SR5 auto 4x4

Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

Hey Durk, not to hijack the thread but my blower the other day started making this squeeling/purring noise randomly. Not super loud but noticeable. The second I turn the blower off, noise is gone.

Yesterday, it didn't make any funky noises at all. It may never show up or maybe it will. How hard is it to remove the blower? Maybe it needs some oil or something? Maybe something is in there?

97 SR5 auto 4x4

Thanks

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/113266-cleaning-blower-fan-write-up.html