KidVermicious
New member
I hope so too! But history says that a reduction in competition is never good.
Anyway, grats on the Longs. I'm jelly.
Hyde builds some axles.
- Thread starter Hyde802
- Start date
I hope so too! But history says that a reduction in competition is never good.
Anyway, grats on the Longs. I'm jelly.
Hyde802
New member
Passenger frame plate and motor mount burned in. When the shock mounts go on, they will brace to the motor mount too. I *may* have gotten a little torch happy in that area.
And drilled out the hubs for the creeper flange pins.
Going to try and knock out the steering box mount and drivers side frame plate this weekend.
And drilled out the hubs for the creeper flange pins.
Going to try and knock out the steering box mount and drivers side frame plate this weekend.
Last edited:
Hyde802
New member
Had a heck of a time finding longer wheel studs. Didnt want to drop the $$ for ARPs and they dont "just make longer studs". So this is what I found:
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Same with the Taco rotor on.
And in the rim
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure. Plus, the matrix studs longer shoulder gives a nice place for the rotor to ride on.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still.. :boink:
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Same with the Taco rotor on.
And in the rim
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure. Plus, the matrix studs longer shoulder gives a nice place for the rotor to ride on.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still.. :boink:
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
Last edited:
nevada
Senior Member
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still.. :boink:
are you planning to run some inset wheels? the scrub with that set-up is going to be bad. steering effort will be very high.
im building a front 60 so I can do just the opposite, and get the tire more centered over the steering axis.
nevada
Senior Member
I hope it works out for you.
its hard to tell but by that pic, it looks like the center line of the tire is going to be way outside the trunions.
I have this going on with my truck. im running very deep backspaced wheels, the scrub is terrible, steering effort is HIGH, and being spooled, turning sucks. it pushes badly.
Hyde802
New member
Heres some comparison pics. These are RuffStuff 7/8th hemis vs the stock 85 tierods.
Mock up.
Going to notch the frame for the bolt. I got it to sit a little tighter, but the overall length of the hemi with the misalignment spacers and bolt is pretty long..
Had to take just a hair off each washer to get the calipers to sit perfect, and they JUST barley clean the inside of the 15" rim. . Tierod is done, but waiting for one joint to come in before I can finish up the drag link.
With the wheel on
Mock up.
Going to notch the frame for the bolt. I got it to sit a little tighter, but the overall length of the hemi with the misalignment spacers and bolt is pretty long..
Had to take just a hair off each washer to get the calipers to sit perfect, and they JUST barley clean the inside of the 15" rim. . Tierod is done, but waiting for one joint to come in before I can finish up the drag link.
With the wheel on
Hyde802
New member
Got my box mounted and frame notched. Going to box in above the notch and the back side of the frame a bit, It will be plenty strong, youll see.
Also made it out into the woods this weekend with some friends, and had some company in the shop
Pictures here: Royalton Hill Snow Run 2014 Photos by ediblecrayons03 | Photobucket
Also made it out into the woods this weekend with some friends, and had some company in the shop
Pictures here: Royalton Hill Snow Run 2014 Photos by ediblecrayons03 | Photobucket
Last edited:
KidVermicious
New member
Pure awesome.
Hyde802
New member
brifri- I had to cut out the back of the core support, but the front is still there.
Got my tanning booth set up
Got the frame finished and boxed on all sides and mounted the steering box.
Like a glove.
And the other side. I trimmed the smaller spacer on the drivers side for more up travel but didnt do this side because I didnt need to, but it looks pretty goofy being so tall. There is about 1/8th of an inch between the hemis at the closest point. Plenty of room!
Got my tanning booth set up
Got the frame finished and boxed on all sides and mounted the steering box.
Like a glove.
And the other side. I trimmed the smaller spacer on the drivers side for more up travel but didnt do this side because I didnt need to, but it looks pretty goofy being so tall. There is about 1/8th of an inch between the hemis at the closest point. Plenty of room!
Last edited:
Hyde802
New member
Flexed it out a little better last night with the help of the excavator. Looks like the 12" shocks will work fine for me. Pitman arm clears the frame/springs fine, but the draglink starts to hit the frame on the pass frame rail just after the leafs start to go negative, so instead of notching the frame, Ill just bumpstop it and call it good. The drivers spring hit the bottom of the hemi before the tierod hits the frame, so im going to try grind down the mis alignment spacers a little more, so I should be good there too.
The chevies dont flex as well as I would have liked, but there is no weight back there so ill wait a bit before looking for a different set of springs.
Hyde802
New member
Intake is a little wonky, but it cleaned up the engine bay, which is what I was after.
Front shock mock up. They are the 12" ford shocks with ford shock towers. Set for 3.5" up travel and 8.5" down. Should be plenty of travel.
Finished pic, Bumpstop is some small daystar (or something) on the spring plate, and bumps against the frame, just before the tie rod hits it.
Rear shock setup. Same Ford shocks and towers, but cut the towers down to fit.
Made a square shaft out of 2 single joint yokes. Used 2.5" Receiver tubing (no inside seam) and some 2" .25 wall tube for the inside part. It required re drilling the mounting pattern on the t case output, but wasnt a big deal. . (more angle than a clearanced CV joint, 42 vs 35) And took it for a drive!
I need to get a small piece of gas line tomorrow after work, but expect some action shots soon, and plans are now being drafted up for a bed/cage
Front shock mock up. They are the 12" ford shocks with ford shock towers. Set for 3.5" up travel and 8.5" down. Should be plenty of travel.
Finished pic, Bumpstop is some small daystar (or something) on the spring plate, and bumps against the frame, just before the tie rod hits it.
Rear shock setup. Same Ford shocks and towers, but cut the towers down to fit.
Made a square shaft out of 2 single joint yokes. Used 2.5" Receiver tubing (no inside seam) and some 2" .25 wall tube for the inside part. It required re drilling the mounting pattern on the t case output, but wasnt a big deal. . (more angle than a clearanced CV joint, 42 vs 35) And took it for a drive!
I need to get a small piece of gas line tomorrow after work, but expect some action shots soon, and plans are now being drafted up for a bed/cage
Last edited:
reallifedog
New member
holy crap Hyde thats lookin great!
