Hyde builds some axles.

Got some moar, other peoples pics.

Trailer line up

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First hill into the property



Second Hill, thats the jeep with the dead battery.

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Faster than the camera..



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After winching up that hill and a short one right before it, I needed to let my battery charge back up. While doing that we hooked the next guy onto my rear mount and started bringing him up the hill.

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Man what a great day.
 
sweet pics man! did i read that right that you got 15" wheels to clear taco rotors? i've been looking at doing that but i keep reading that you have to go with 16" or bigger wheels and i don't have the $$ for that
 
Thanks man! Im still using the 92s calipers, and they clear the inside of the 15" rim with about 2-3mm to spare, just as they would have done when it was IFS. I think you need a 16" rim to run taco calipers. I did have to widen the caliper a bit to get the taco rotor to fit in it. IIRC the tacoma rotors do not have a bigger diameter than the IFS rotors.

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All the info is a few pages back.
 
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Quick bath, to get it ready to go back in the shop to address a few things. Motor mounts and engine leaks are first, then I need to change around my front leafsprings, then I can finally finish up the half doors.

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Here you can see where the thicker newer Downey springs arent bending as much as the softer worn 48" spring. Im going to take them out and change them up a bit.

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Got a killer deal on a forward shift, that ill convert to a top shift.

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Maybe this winter. Trucks wheelable now, so Im gonna drive it as much as I can this summer, then well see where we are. I havent even picked up the donor truck yet.

So yeah.. I bought a 2000 s10 with a 4.3 and a 4l60e thats gonna end up in the truck, probably with stock ratio duals. But well see as I dig into it. :biggrin1:

And one more pic..

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Heres the crooked engine, that led me to find the broken motor mount. That and when I hit the gas the shifters went about 2 inches to the passenger side.

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Drilled and put a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt through it, Marlin style, tightened the nut till the lock washer closed.

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You dont have to pull the mount off the engine as long as you can unbolt the rubber part, I did because I didnt know, and it makes it easier to get to the nut. The hole in that engine side mount is already 1/2". But if you do decide to take the mount off, you have to pull the oil filter and dip stuck tube to get it off.

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At least your engine was bolted down. My 3.0 wasnt bolted down and it only had 4 of the 6 bolts in the bellhousing and 2 of those were loose lol.
 
A few final pictures from the run in April.

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Ive been lazy lately now that it bike season, but got some time in today. The screen in the feed line of the powersteering line was clogged, which would only allow about 3/4 turn of the steering wheel in either direction before squeaking and fluid loss out of the cap.Cleaned it out and were good to go again.



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And did some trail scouting. Each one of those ledges is about 2-3' tall. Going to get a trail cut to this spot soon..

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Changed out the front lead packs for a different ruf pack and did a little cruising around tonight, have a couple buddies coming over sunday to do a little cut/wheel day.

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And I got a little stuck...

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Should have some good photos after Sunday too!
 
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Heres the crooked engine, that led me to find the broken motor mount. That and when I hit the gas the shifters went about 2 inches to the passenger side.

temporary_zpsfea81ef5.jpg~original


Drilled and put a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt through it, Marlin style, tightened the nut till the lock washer closed.

temporary_zps9a6ab6ea.jpg~original


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You dont have to pull the mount off the engine as long as you can unbolt the rubber part, I did because I didnt know, and it makes it easier to get to the nut. The hole in that engine side mount is already 1/2". But if you do decide to take the mount off, you have to pull the oil filter and dip stuck tube to get it off.

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I just wasn't to know how you broke the mount on a 3.slooooww it's not like the power broke it
 
Hyde just curious what changes did you make to the ruf pack? Also I'm setting up my shocks on the front very similar with 3.5 up and 8.5 down. How does that work out for?
 
Hyde just curious what changes did you make to the ruf pack? Also I'm setting up my shocks on the front very similar with 3.5 up and 8.5 down. How does that work out for?

ive seen this type of a thing a lot, but I cant understand WHY?

I have my front shocks fairly centered, and I use a LOT of the up travel, much more than 3". I don't understand why I would want to limit the up travel.



also, [MENTION=69539]Hyde802[/MENTION] how is the tire scrub with that front hub set up you're running?
 
ive seen this type of a thing a lot, but I cant understand WHY?

I have my front shocks fairly centered, and I use a LOT of the up travel, much more than 3". I don't understand why I would want to limit the up travel.



also, [MENTION=69539]Hyde802[/MENTION] how is the tire scrub with that front hub set up you're running?

Having a ifs frame I limited by up travel a lot. But also running a thin five leaf pack of rear springs, nearly flat at ride height. So if running a lift spring you could have more up travel.

Hyde also curious about the scrub radius as I have the taco swap so add a .5 inch overall.
 
The shock length is working well. In the pic above with the frond drooped, the wheel can drop another 3" or so. I ended up with a solid 3" of uptravel, Yup, gotta love the IFS frames. Draglink hitting the frame on the pass side, and pit man arm bolt on the drivers. But I dont bottom out much, Havent jumped it yet though. And it stuffs the 38 perfectly. If I had more uptravel, I would need smaller tires or less sheet metal.

I swapped out the RUF for a 6 leaf pack that some one else had already put together... Same ride height, just the springs pack better together.

Scrub is not bad, steers as sharp as any locked F&R vehicle does. But not bad for a stock steering pump on 38s.
 
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Only got about an hour of wheelin in before the front ring and pinion decided they were done. Ive never check the ring and pinion part of the diff, felt good so I ran it. I have a solid spacer kit on the way and ill re build with other 4.10 parts I have.

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I dont know when it broke? But When I got in it to move it again it wasnt happy.

Gettin the strap out.

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I have way to many pictures of my truck on jackstands.

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My buddies runner:

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Toyota width trails

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