I didn't listen!!!

Your ball joint did you a favor. It's simply showing you how worn out your tires are! :high5:

Hahaha, well the glossy appearance of the tire is from it actually turning in the fender well before folding under the truck. I'm going to have to scavenge a new plastic inner fender well (burnt through in some parts). The tread is still good on them (30K on em), but I'm definitely thinking that I will need them after this winter. If I absolutely need a new set, I have the exact same tires on my FJ80 project.
 
NO warranty found, they were a no-name brand from Ebay and I installed them myself.



Ball joints are the joints are used to attach the wheel and steering components on an independent suspension system. There is an upper and lower ball joint on each side. It allows the spindle (part that holds the wheel and hub) to articulate and turn when steering (tie rod ends connect the steering components to the spindle)



Yeah, the steering had been acting screwy all day (was stiff and would not return to center). I was only going 15 mph when it gave and thankfully it wasn't as damaged as it could have been.

REDNECK TIP: I used 550 paracord to limp it around the corner into the driveway! That stuff is a lot tougher than I gave it credit for!

The truth of the matter is, I'm pretty sure I know what caused the failure. I was driving out to my summer job on a gravel road (70% of our county is gravel) and I crested a hill that was being graded (they hump up the gravel in the middle of the road). I hit it and it threw me into the ditch, stuffing the left front tire hard. I only did a visual inspection and did not notice any difference in the way it drove, so I thought I was okay. Unfortunately, I was wrong. Fortunately for me, after putting another 1,000 miles on it, including a trip to Aspen in September, it decided to give 50 feet from my driveway. It should have taken the time to jack up the vehicle and check to see if everything was still functional.

I installed Sankei 555 LBJ's on (apparently the same stamping as OEM) yesterday and she's up and running again with no damage to the spindle or UBJ (no wobble when jacked up or stretch on the bolts) but the CV axle needs a new boot and needs regreased. Anything else that someone can think of would be greatly appreciated!

So you reinstalled non OEM Sankei's? OEM's run around $75. Why didnt you just go with OEM this time?
 
My failure was when I was fully locked turning. My buddy had two failures. One offroading and the other was flipping a U-turn. Maybe has something to do with it.

Yeah it makes more sense to fail then, since the tie rods are pushing/pulling a lot harder on that ball joint. Going straight on a freeway doesn't put much stress on the joints.
 
So you reinstalled non OEM Sankei's? OEM's run around $75. Why didnt you just go with OEM this time?

:bolt:
Yes, yes I did. From what I've read on here it's best to go with Sankei (packaged and labeled so in the box) or OEM, but I could be wrong. My guess is the joint that failed did so because of the damage to it. The right LBJ (no-name) did not show any signs of wear or failure when I took it off.
 
parts.camelbacktoyota.com

Cheap OEM parts and always arrive quickly. Can't stress them enough. Great group of fellas as well.
 
:bolt:
Yes, yes I did. From what I've read on here it's best to go with Sankei (packaged and labeled so in the box) or OEM, but I could be wrong. My guess is the joint that failed did so because of the damage to it. The right LBJ (no-name) did not show any signs of wear or failure when I took it off.

Good luck.
 
Woah! Glad you're ok. It is interesting from an engineering perspective how these (mostly?) fail when people aren't going 80mph.

Anyway, I didn't have a great experience with sankei. Mine didn't break or anything but I pulled them after something like 30k and they were worn out and crunchy as hell.

If you've installed them already, probably no biggie but just a heads up.

Also, serious ****ing points to you for using accessory cord to limp home. You win today's McGyver award.
 
:bolt:
Yes, yes I did. From what I've read on here it's best to go with Sankei (packaged and labeled so in the box) or OEM, but I could be wrong. My guess is the joint that failed did so because of the damage to it. The right LBJ (no-name) did not show any signs of wear or failure when I took it off.

So let me get this straight?! Your cheap aftermarket LBJ's failed & you replaced them with cheap aftermarket LBJ's after starting a thread that says, "I didn't listen!!!" :wtf:

I'm trying to be nice here buy that's pretty f@ckin' retarded.:boink:
 
Oh no! Say it ain't so. Everyone has their own situation, I under the that, but there is absolutely no reason to put yourself and others in harms way. The lower ball joints will guess what?..ding ding ding.. fail at high speeds as well. Hell man yank those sankei turds off and replace with tried and true. I'd be willing to put 5-10$ to your cause and if some others for the community were too we could really help you with the cost. It just is not worth it. Designing a part that fails catastrophically is bad enough, imagine an aftermarket company's half arsed approach to an already poor design.

Hate to sound like a broken record here but I'd be double dog damned if I could hold my tongue on this one.

I just threw some new ball joints on mine last week and man is it nice having the piece of mind. Plus the OEM from Camelback Toyota are competitively priced and the quality is evident.

I hope this was written in the right tone.
 
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Thread needs to be renamed, 'i still dont listen'
- doing the same thing over again and expecting different results is the definition of insanity

What ft/lb spec are you using to torque the lbj nut ?
 
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I have them marked as changed at 241k in my service records, so I got just over 50k out of it. Definitely not as long as OEM.

Do you think that an OEM part would have faired any better? It sounds like you hit the bank pretty hard from what you mentioned earlier.
 
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So let me get this straight?!

I'm trying to be nice here buy that's pretty f@ckin' retarded.:boink:

I know, f@ck me, right? I probably should have read more...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...tos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings.html

Do you think that an OEM part would have faired any better? It sounds like you hit the bank pretty hard from what you mentioned earlier.

My guess is that if it stuffs the tire hard enough to pop a hole in the fender well, it probably wasn't good for anything, regardless of make. Definitely did something to the joint. The other one was smooth and didn't show any signs of wear. Neither did the other one until after the accident. From what I read if it was a higher quality joint, which can take a beating, I would have probably been okay. It's hard to tell. I'd rather not reenact the accident to find out.
 

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