I f**king hate wrenching.

[Mutant138]

My new stuts seem to come with extra cushions?

Stock only had one with two retainers (fancy washers).

Not sure if something rolled away when i pulled them off. Is the order nut washer bushing tophat washer?

Or is it nut washer cushion washer tophat cushion washer?

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[GripT4R]

Is the 2nd bushing still in the top hat?

 

[M22]

The lower bottom one is glued into the underside of the top hat. You can either pry the old one out and use the new one or if the one in the top hat looks good reuse it (don’t use both new and old in the top hat together though).

 

[MAST4R]

^ this. When reusing the stock tophats, there is a washer that just stays inside.

 

[honda250xtitan]

one spring compressor? ya'll wild!

 

[Mutant138]

Thank you so much everyone.

Not full on compression on that. Still dumb and lazy tho :shrug:

I'm actually using the no compressor method but I was being an idiot and didn't realize my jack was under the LCA so I couldn't push it down out of the way.

Not gonna lie is been rough going. But it's should all be gravy from here. Had to figure out what worked.

****ing ac line (kdss line? w.e. runs behind the coil) almost made quit.

Spring and strut is in tho.

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[GripT4R]

So....what was the bushing issue?

 

[KWSRStorm]

My biggest concern for the install is the kdss system. Has any of your frustrations been because of that?

I liked the kit you picked out so im curious how it ends up working out.

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[Mutant138]

My biggest concern for the install is the kdss system. Has any of your frustrations been because of that?

I liked the kit you picked out so im curious how it ends up working out.

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Yes and no. I kinda was all over the place today with bad or missing instructions for the aftermarket parts.

Be nice if dobisons had some sort of documentation about the top hat having a bushing glued if your reusing stock. Instead of me scratching my head for at least an hour or two.

Edit: Not fair really I should have done my research.

Jba sent me tacoma install instructions so I spent a few more hours trying to install extra shims that would never fit.

Edit: They fit it's easier when the knuckle assembly is all together. ALL 4 SHIMS SHOULD BE USED.

As for the kdss... I thought I was being limited when I was trying to push my lca away. My dumb **** self left the ****ing jack under it and and too busy being Paul Bunion to see under the LCA. So I undid the kdss bracket on the LCA with two bolts. So now I do have an issue with kdss. I didn't plan on it tho ha. So I'll **** with that tomorrow morning. Will see if I can avoid that on th other side or not. Probably going to take some straps and muscle. Can't wait. Back is ****ed already.

On a positive note my home inspection went well today [emoji3]



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[Mutant138]

So....what was the bushing issue?

New suspension came with two bushings. Oem bushing is glued into the tophat the other sits on top like normal.

I sat their scratching my head trying to figure out how all that rubber was going to fit.

Internet to the rescue. Thank ****.

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[honda250xtitan]

IIRC either way you gotta remove the KDSS bar since the aftermarket unit it longer than the stock strut assembly. I cracked open the kdss valves to make it easier to move the sway bar, not sure if it was enough to make a difference cause i still fought it especially on the passenger side. it was 2 full turns i believe, it's somewhere on the forum. It's a risk though if you open it too far than air gets in the system and you have another issue to deal with lol.

passenger side will go 2x faster now that you figured it all out at least.


jack stands under frame, floor jack under LCA lol

 

[GripT4R]

You did put the thick JBA washers on the outsides of the bushings (facing the head of the bolt, and the nut) and the thin JBA washers on the inside of each bushing (facing the shock tower) correct?

The tacoma and 4 runner instructions are the same i believe.

I did not re-use the little bracket on the OEM control arm. I zip tied that cable to the JBA instead.

 

[Mutant138]

You did put the thick JBA washers on the outsides of the bushings (facing the head of the bolt, and the nut) and the thin JBA washers on the inside of each bushing (facing the shock tower) correct?



The tacoma and 4 runner instructions are the same i believe.



I did not re-use the little bracket on the OEM control arm. I zip tied that cable to the JBA instead.

Na. Bolt big washer, through the bushing, through the truck, thought the bushing, large washer, nut.

I tried for 3 hours to get all the shims in. But if you look at the sides where the small shims would go the only thing making contact with it is the size of the bushing sleeve. Bushing doesn't contact anything. Taco must be ever so slightly different.

EDIT: ALL 4 SHIMS NEED TO BE IN PLACE IF YOU ARE READING THIS. WHAT I FOUND WAS OUTDATED OR JUST WRONG.

My back hurts

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[Mutant138]

Took a very short drive to get some nurishment. Pulls left a bitt not too bad. Tires and alignment tomorrow morning.

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[Mutant138]

Going to crash hard tonight.

 

[GripT4R]

Those thin bushings are there for a reason, and JBA says to use them. Curious to see what happens with that.

 

[Mutant138]

Those thin bushings are there for a reason, and JBA says to use them. Curious to see what happens with that.

Yeah I mean that's what I felt. Then I found other people not running them after hours of fighting with it.

I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they say. Maybe there's a trick.

If I need them hopefully I can get them in before my scheduled alignment. It was a ****er of mother's for me.

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[MAST4R]

Tires and alignment tomorrow morning. [

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If you don't have lifetime alignment, you may want to drive 60-80 miles before you get it aligned. Dobinsons coils do settle a lot over that distance and/or the first 24-48hr. Then any subsequent settling should be minimal but do check again after either 500 or 1000 miles. If you do have lifetime, you can align off the bat but then have it re-checked after 500 miles or so.

Also, don't put on new tires until you are sure your alignment is fine for the long haul.

 

[Mutant138]

If you don't have lifetime alignment, you may want to drive 60-80 miles before you get it aligned. Dobinsons coils do settle a lot over that distance and/or the first 24-48hr. Then any subsequent settling should be minimal but do check again after either 500 or 1000 miles. If you do have lifetime, you can align off the bat but then have it re-checked after 500 miles or so.

Also, don't put on new tires until you are sure your alignment is fine for the long haul.

I was thinking about just holding off on getting new tires and feeling out the change with the oem tires. Then when everything settles I'll get new tires and realign. Wonder if a warrentee would cover a change in tires. Might ask. Thanks.

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[MAST4R]

The Firestone I use has been pretty good at not giving me hard time for being there often relative to most. But it is a good tactic to go when they have few customers.

They have not had issues when I have said I altered the ride height or had a couple months with lots of wheeling.