Jcmeadows82
Member
This guide should help you if you are attempting to replace the following items:
- Secondary air injection pump (SAIP) (Part# 17610-0C030)
- SAIP control valve assembly (Part# W0133-2005011 <--- Parts Geek couldn't find Toyota PN)
- Knock sensors (both banks) (Part# 89615-20090)
- Starter 1.4kw non/cold spec (Part# 28100-50090-84)
-or- 2.0kw cold spec (Part# 28100-50100, 28100-50101)
- SAIP check valves (Part# 25720-50020)
Tools I used:
- Deep and shallow 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm sockets
- 10mm and 12mm Open-end box-end wrenches
- 1/4" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions
- 3/8" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions, a couple universal joints
- Good light
- a ladder. Not a joke, this thing is tall.
Other parts I bought:
- Intake plenum gasket set (Part# Fel-Pro MS96672)
- Fuel Injector seal kit (Part# Mahale MS96672)
- Coolant bypass pipe O-Ring (Part# 96761-24019)
- Coolant bypass gasket (Part# C31701 <-- internet search didn't help. Try auto parts store)
- Coolant
If you are going to utilize this guide, I ask that you read through it in its entirety before starting. Take your time. There are a lot of small bolts that can fall into very inconvenient places and get lost so take care.
Here is a video on YouTube that cice mentioned below as being very close to what I detail here.
How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470 - YouTube
The main difference is that he removes the check valves from the coolant pipe (roughly 9:10 - 10:00 shows what he did). I don't think that this would work if you are replacing the starter as the coolant pipe is still going to be in the way. This video still gives a solid tutorial on how to complete 90% of the job and is worth a watch if you are doing this job.
---Guide Starts here---
1
- Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
- Remove 2 @ 10mm nuts from plastic cover.
- Loosen 1@ 10mm clamp holding intake to air box.
- Move front small vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from front resonator box.
- Move mid large vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from intake.
- Remove back vacuum hose from rear intake resonator.
2
- Cut two zip ties holding wire loom to Resonator.
3
- Loosen 10mm intake clamp.
- Move 3 mid-sized hose clamps and disconnect hose from manifold.
- Remove intake.
4
- Disconnect 4 @ 10mm bolts from brackets on top of intake manifold (red).
- Disconnect 1 @ 12mm bolt from bracket on top of intake manifold (green).
5
- Disconnect 3 @ 10MM Bolts and 1 @ 10mm Nut from throttle body.
- Disconnect electrical connector.
- Loosen two coolant hose clamps and disconnect hoses (Arrows). There will be a small amount of coolant in these lines. I plugged with an appropriately sized bolt. (Skip to the very end if you want to know why this was a good idea. Or just plug the hoses if you believe me).
6
- Remove 5 @ 10mm bolts. The one at the top of this picture is horizontally oriented and secures the fuel line above the fuel rail. We remove this to enable the fuel line to flex during the fuel rail removal.
- Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
- Loosen but do not remove 17mm fuel banjo bolt. This bolt will have 2 washers associated with it, one on either side of the line it is securing to the fuel rail.
- Loosen hose clamp indicated by the green circle. Remove the thingy indicated by the green arrow. Lift up, then pull to the front of the car. Take care not to damage the O-ring that interfaces with the fuel rail.
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs from the fuel injectors.
7
- Remove 2 @ 12MM nuts holding the fuel rail to the manifold.
- Remove the horizontally oriented 10mm Bolt (represented by the small red oval) that secures the fuel line (represented by the thick red line) to the back of the fuel rail.
- Remove 10mm bolt (represented by the green circle) and remove the bracket. I needed to do this in order to remove the fuel rail more easily. I replaced this once the fuel rail was removed.
- Disconnect the far side of the fuel connector (represented by the green line, connector not shown in picture).
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs.
- Loosen 17mm fuel banjo bolt. With both banjo bolts lose you can carefully remove the hard line with the bolts and washers. You should have 2 banjo bolts and 4 washers.
8
- To remove left Fuel rail, gently pull up on the rail to un-seat the injectors, then pull up slightly on the fuel line indicated in green. I believe I had to lift the rail up, rotate 90 degrees counterclockwise, then pull forward and out.
- Injectors should have an O-Ring at the fuel rail mating side and a large round gasket/O-ring on the manifold side.
9
- To remove the right Fuel rail, I had to remove the bracket (red arrow) and disconnect the plug (red circle).
- Gently pull up on the rail to unseat the injectors.
- In order to extricate the rail, you will need to guide the attached fuel line through the mess of wires as you are pulling the rail out. Be patient, you don’t want to kink this line.
- Once the rail is out, now is a good time to look at the condition of your fuel injector seals and probably just replace them. I found that most of the black gaskets were actually still in the manifold. I am replacing all of them as I seem to have had a small fuel seepage problem on both sides.
10
- On to the left side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.
11
- Unplug sensor plug and disconnect vacuum hose. Vacuum hose is part of the manifold and disconnecting the sensor plug will reduce strain on cabling.
12
- Moving over to the right-side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.
13
- At the back of the manifold, on the right side, remove the 10mm bolt holding an electrical connector plate to the back of the manifold.
- Disconnect the black connector (Green Arrows) and separate it from the bracket it was attached to.
- Disconnect the fuel line connector from the fuel line.
- With this you can carefully Remove the manifold. On the right side of the manifold, near the back, you may need to route an electrical cable.
14
- Now we are under the manifold and can begin seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
Note: The item labeled with a blue #1 is the SAIP. It can fail sending plastic crap through the SAIP Control assemble (Blue#2) and into the SAIP check valves. This is the dreaded SAIP system that the SlyFox mod pre-emptively deals with.
- Unplug 5 Electrical connectors. Be very careful with them. The detent on 3 of mine broke. Think very carefully about how you are going to make sure they do not come apart if this happens to you.
- Remove 3 @ 10mm Bolts & 2 @ 12mm bolts
- Loosen Hose clamp (Green arrow). This hose is a hard material that wants to crack and split.
- Remove secondary air pump, then remove diverter (blue numbers).
15
- Remove 12mm Bolt holding coolant pipe to rear coolant bypass.
- Remove 4 @ 12mm bolts holding down air pump mount.
- If you are just replacing knock sensors, this is as far as you will need to go.
- Remove the Coolant bypass pipe by pulling firmly toward the firewall. There should be an O-ring on the pipe. You will want to replace this O-ring (more on this topic later. I am just letting you know that YOU WILL WANT TO REPLACE THIS O-RING).
- EDIT: I noticed that I did not mention the 12mm nut (very top left of this picture) holding the plastic wire container/loom down because mine was broken. You will want to remove this nut in order to have room to flex the entire thing out of the way when removing the coolant bypass/check valve assembly.
16
- Now, I know that I said that we could see light at the end of the tunnel. That was for people who were only replacing the sensors. For the rest of us poor sots, it was a Train. Choo-Chooo!
- 2 of the next 4 bolts 10mm will be a challenge. In this picture I have numbered the bolts in red. I will attempt to describe how I removed them.
- 1 is by far the most difficult and required a second set of hands to remove. I used the below tool setup to accomplish the job. I had my helper at the wheel well guiding the long half of the tool in while I was up top using my hands to guide it to the bolt. Once the socket was on the bolt, I had to hold the tool from the inside while the second person used the ratchet.
- 2 was the easiest of the bolt and can be removed easily.
- 3 and 4 were removed using 1/4' drive and extensions. They were a little tricky, but not as rough as 1.
- Now you can remove the 4 @ 12mm bolts holding the coolant bypass to the block (green).
17
18
- To remove this god forsaken piece of engineering (secondary air injection pump check valves) was basically just a careful wrestling match between the two pipes on either side of it, the wire harness mess above it, and the %$#@^& wire restraint they decided to attach TO THE BACK OF IT. Don’t ask me how I was able to get the damn thing off… I don’t remember, but I was able to disconnect it without damaging it. I believe it was a small flathead and a couple picks.
19
- This is the dreaded secondary air pump check valve. Now you know how to remove it. I believe each of the literal pieces of trash pictured above can be purchased from a dealer for around 100 bucks each.
- Note the metal "gaskets" on either end where the 4 bolts from hell were located. Make sure you have them.
- I see no reason to replace the metal "gaskets". I believe if you like living on the wild side, you COULD reuse the coolant gaskets assuming you didn’t mess them up during the removal process. I am not a Chad who takes unnecessary risks, so I replaced them.
- Secondary air injection pump (SAIP) (Part# 17610-0C030)
- SAIP control valve assembly (Part# W0133-2005011 <--- Parts Geek couldn't find Toyota PN)
- Knock sensors (both banks) (Part# 89615-20090)
- Starter 1.4kw non/cold spec (Part# 28100-50090-84)
-or- 2.0kw cold spec (Part# 28100-50100, 28100-50101)
- SAIP check valves (Part# 25720-50020)
Tools I used:
- Deep and shallow 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm sockets
- 10mm and 12mm Open-end box-end wrenches
- 1/4" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions
- 3/8" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions, a couple universal joints
- Good light
- a ladder. Not a joke, this thing is tall.
Other parts I bought:
- Intake plenum gasket set (Part# Fel-Pro MS96672)
- Fuel Injector seal kit (Part# Mahale MS96672)
- Coolant bypass pipe O-Ring (Part# 96761-24019)
- Coolant bypass gasket (Part# C31701 <-- internet search didn't help. Try auto parts store)
- Coolant
If you are going to utilize this guide, I ask that you read through it in its entirety before starting. Take your time. There are a lot of small bolts that can fall into very inconvenient places and get lost so take care.
Here is a video on YouTube that cice mentioned below as being very close to what I detail here.
How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470 - YouTube
The main difference is that he removes the check valves from the coolant pipe (roughly 9:10 - 10:00 shows what he did). I don't think that this would work if you are replacing the starter as the coolant pipe is still going to be in the way. This video still gives a solid tutorial on how to complete 90% of the job and is worth a watch if you are doing this job.
---Guide Starts here---
1
- Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
- Remove 2 @ 10mm nuts from plastic cover.
- Loosen 1@ 10mm clamp holding intake to air box.
- Move front small vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from front resonator box.
- Move mid large vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from intake.
- Remove back vacuum hose from rear intake resonator.
2
- Cut two zip ties holding wire loom to Resonator.
3
- Loosen 10mm intake clamp.
- Move 3 mid-sized hose clamps and disconnect hose from manifold.
- Remove intake.
4
- Disconnect 4 @ 10mm bolts from brackets on top of intake manifold (red).
- Disconnect 1 @ 12mm bolt from bracket on top of intake manifold (green).
5
- Disconnect 3 @ 10MM Bolts and 1 @ 10mm Nut from throttle body.
- Disconnect electrical connector.
- Loosen two coolant hose clamps and disconnect hoses (Arrows). There will be a small amount of coolant in these lines. I plugged with an appropriately sized bolt. (Skip to the very end if you want to know why this was a good idea. Or just plug the hoses if you believe me).
6
- Remove 5 @ 10mm bolts. The one at the top of this picture is horizontally oriented and secures the fuel line above the fuel rail. We remove this to enable the fuel line to flex during the fuel rail removal.
- Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
- Loosen but do not remove 17mm fuel banjo bolt. This bolt will have 2 washers associated with it, one on either side of the line it is securing to the fuel rail.
- Loosen hose clamp indicated by the green circle. Remove the thingy indicated by the green arrow. Lift up, then pull to the front of the car. Take care not to damage the O-ring that interfaces with the fuel rail.
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs from the fuel injectors.
7
- Remove 2 @ 12MM nuts holding the fuel rail to the manifold.
- Remove the horizontally oriented 10mm Bolt (represented by the small red oval) that secures the fuel line (represented by the thick red line) to the back of the fuel rail.
- Remove 10mm bolt (represented by the green circle) and remove the bracket. I needed to do this in order to remove the fuel rail more easily. I replaced this once the fuel rail was removed.
- Disconnect the far side of the fuel connector (represented by the green line, connector not shown in picture).
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs.
- Loosen 17mm fuel banjo bolt. With both banjo bolts lose you can carefully remove the hard line with the bolts and washers. You should have 2 banjo bolts and 4 washers.
8
- To remove left Fuel rail, gently pull up on the rail to un-seat the injectors, then pull up slightly on the fuel line indicated in green. I believe I had to lift the rail up, rotate 90 degrees counterclockwise, then pull forward and out.
- Injectors should have an O-Ring at the fuel rail mating side and a large round gasket/O-ring on the manifold side.
9
- To remove the right Fuel rail, I had to remove the bracket (red arrow) and disconnect the plug (red circle).
- Gently pull up on the rail to unseat the injectors.
- In order to extricate the rail, you will need to guide the attached fuel line through the mess of wires as you are pulling the rail out. Be patient, you don’t want to kink this line.
- Once the rail is out, now is a good time to look at the condition of your fuel injector seals and probably just replace them. I found that most of the black gaskets were actually still in the manifold. I am replacing all of them as I seem to have had a small fuel seepage problem on both sides.
10
- On to the left side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.
11
- Unplug sensor plug and disconnect vacuum hose. Vacuum hose is part of the manifold and disconnecting the sensor plug will reduce strain on cabling.
12
- Moving over to the right-side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.
13
- At the back of the manifold, on the right side, remove the 10mm bolt holding an electrical connector plate to the back of the manifold.
- Disconnect the black connector (Green Arrows) and separate it from the bracket it was attached to.
- Disconnect the fuel line connector from the fuel line.
- With this you can carefully Remove the manifold. On the right side of the manifold, near the back, you may need to route an electrical cable.
14
- Now we are under the manifold and can begin seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
Note: The item labeled with a blue #1 is the SAIP. It can fail sending plastic crap through the SAIP Control assemble (Blue#2) and into the SAIP check valves. This is the dreaded SAIP system that the SlyFox mod pre-emptively deals with.
- Unplug 5 Electrical connectors. Be very careful with them. The detent on 3 of mine broke. Think very carefully about how you are going to make sure they do not come apart if this happens to you.
- Remove 3 @ 10mm Bolts & 2 @ 12mm bolts
- Loosen Hose clamp (Green arrow). This hose is a hard material that wants to crack and split.
- Remove secondary air pump, then remove diverter (blue numbers).
15
- Remove 12mm Bolt holding coolant pipe to rear coolant bypass.
- Remove 4 @ 12mm bolts holding down air pump mount.
- If you are just replacing knock sensors, this is as far as you will need to go.
- Remove the Coolant bypass pipe by pulling firmly toward the firewall. There should be an O-ring on the pipe. You will want to replace this O-ring (more on this topic later. I am just letting you know that YOU WILL WANT TO REPLACE THIS O-RING).
- EDIT: I noticed that I did not mention the 12mm nut (very top left of this picture) holding the plastic wire container/loom down because mine was broken. You will want to remove this nut in order to have room to flex the entire thing out of the way when removing the coolant bypass/check valve assembly.
16
- Now, I know that I said that we could see light at the end of the tunnel. That was for people who were only replacing the sensors. For the rest of us poor sots, it was a Train. Choo-Chooo!
- 2 of the next 4 bolts 10mm will be a challenge. In this picture I have numbered the bolts in red. I will attempt to describe how I removed them.
- 1 is by far the most difficult and required a second set of hands to remove. I used the below tool setup to accomplish the job. I had my helper at the wheel well guiding the long half of the tool in while I was up top using my hands to guide it to the bolt. Once the socket was on the bolt, I had to hold the tool from the inside while the second person used the ratchet.
- 2 was the easiest of the bolt and can be removed easily.
- 3 and 4 were removed using 1/4' drive and extensions. They were a little tricky, but not as rough as 1.
- Now you can remove the 4 @ 12mm bolts holding the coolant bypass to the block (green).
17
18
- To remove this god forsaken piece of engineering (secondary air injection pump check valves) was basically just a careful wrestling match between the two pipes on either side of it, the wire harness mess above it, and the %$#@^& wire restraint they decided to attach TO THE BACK OF IT. Don’t ask me how I was able to get the damn thing off… I don’t remember, but I was able to disconnect it without damaging it. I believe it was a small flathead and a couple picks.
19
- This is the dreaded secondary air pump check valve. Now you know how to remove it. I believe each of the literal pieces of trash pictured above can be purchased from a dealer for around 100 bucks each.
- Note the metal "gaskets" on either end where the 4 bolts from hell were located. Make sure you have them.
- I see no reason to replace the metal "gaskets". I believe if you like living on the wild side, you COULD reuse the coolant gaskets assuming you didn’t mess them up during the removal process. I am not a Chad who takes unnecessary risks, so I replaced them.
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