I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
BigFishAllDay
New member
This is the one I used... "Gunk Engine Cleaner & Degreaser - Multi Surface (Citrus)"
http://www.gunk.com/products/product_images/VL_EBT32.jpg
Gunk/Engine cleaner and degreaser (EBT32) | Engine Degreaser | AutoZone.com
I chose that one because it's spec'd as being safe for all metals & plastics and it's citrus based, so it's not real harsh. I didn't want any discoloration on parts, and I didn't want to use the real heavy duty gels because they seem like they'd be a pain to wash off completely.
I just sprayed it on there, and used a toothbrush to get into the tight areas, and a bigger brush/cloth for general cleaning. Then sprayed off with a light spray of water from the hose. I also covered the alternator with a plastic grocery bag to keep water/cleaner out of it.
http://www.gunk.com/products/product_images/VL_EBT32.jpg
Gunk/Engine cleaner and degreaser (EBT32) | Engine Degreaser | AutoZone.com
I chose that one because it's spec'd as being safe for all metals & plastics and it's citrus based, so it's not real harsh. I didn't want any discoloration on parts, and I didn't want to use the real heavy duty gels because they seem like they'd be a pain to wash off completely.
I just sprayed it on there, and used a toothbrush to get into the tight areas, and a bigger brush/cloth for general cleaning. Then sprayed off with a light spray of water from the hose. I also covered the alternator with a plastic grocery bag to keep water/cleaner out of it.
SCRunner12
New member
I did some research on replacement options and found out (via a thread on YT) that Dayco makes a replacement tensioner that is nearly identical to the TRD part.
The tensioner itself can be found on Amazon.com (sold by amazon.com), for $31.90 Shipped. It is Dayco Part # 89241 (Link >>> Amazon.com: Dayco 89241 Automatic Belt Tensioner: Automotive )
When compared side by side to the TRD Part (TRD Part # is PTR30-35041, by the way), the Dayco tensioner is identical except for two things...
First, it comes out of the box with a ribbed pulley.
The pulley issue is solved by purchasing Dayco Part # 89007, which is also available on Amazon.com. The pulley sells for $12.68 shipped.
I was looking through your thread for your write up on how you rotated the Tundra coils to avoid spindle contact (any idea where that is btw? Might have been Dirtco, I can't remember), but also came across this post. I was planning on going this route for the dynamic tensioner to save some cash. Do you think it would be fine to leave the existing ribbed pulley instead of swapping them out. The guy I bought my bracket from posted he is using the ribbed one, but do you forsee any issues with it in your opinion? Thanks!
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BigFishAllDay
New member
First, will you PLEASE go back and edit your post. There's no need to quote an entire write-up like that. Photobucket bandwidth is slowly becoming a nightmare for me (as you know regarding the TBU write-up and me paying for the upgrade when you needed the pics). Re-posting all those photos and the additional views that are generated just makes it worse, not to mention cluttering my build. If you would have quoted just the first pic, I'd have known what you were talking about, or you could have referenced the post via a link....
You can find a link for the write-up on the coil rotation in the index of posts located in posts 1 & 2 of this thread. Just scroll through the list until you see the link.
ABSOLUTELY NOT a good idea to leave the ribbed pulley. The flat side of the belt is what rides on the dynamic tensioner pulley surface, not the ribbed side of the belt. If you leave the ribbed pulley, you'll have the flat side of the belt riding on the ribs of the pulley, and I think you can guess what would happen there. Better stock up on belts if you go that route.
Also, I'm not sure if you saw the last part of that post... I'd consider getting the actual TRD part if I had to do it over again.
SCRunner12
New member
Sorry I thought I removed more photos during my initial quote.
Got ya. I definitely understand what you are saying. I wonder if the other guy has many premature belt breaks due to his ribbed pulley. I will have to look into that. I'll probably just go with the TRD one then since like you mentioned the price difference isn't much at all. Thanks once again for your wisdom. :hail:
fightman80
New member
Congrats man on T4R of the Month! Nice work on the engine bay too..... That's something I should do to both of mine... but I oil spray the crap out of them every fall... so it will look like crap again in a couple of months... 
SCRunner12
New member
Thanks Brian, but I already cleaned it up and actually left a lot off on my initial post, but not enough. I left some pictures to illustrate what I was talking about for future readers, but I understand not cluttering up the thread. Thanks for the tips though.
fastolds
New member
I've been reading your build slowly for the last couple of days. I barely had time for that with chasing my 1yr old around. How in the world do you have time to do any of the stuff you have posted with a young one running around?
I'm jealous of a lot of things in this build- the way your rig looks and handles, to your welding abilities, to actually finding 3rd gens in the yards.
I bought a Harbor Freight welder, and its still in the box. I need to fix the rusty quarters on my old ford pickup, and I am hesitant to get started on it. But this thread is helping me get started!
Thanks
I'm jealous of a lot of things in this build- the way your rig looks and handles, to your welding abilities, to actually finding 3rd gens in the yards.
I bought a Harbor Freight welder, and its still in the box. I need to fix the rusty quarters on my old ford pickup, and I am hesitant to get started on it. But this thread is helping me get started!
Thanks
BigFishAllDay
New member
Congrats man on T4R of the Month! Nice work on the engine bay too..... That's something I should do to both of mine... but I oil spray the crap out of them every fall... so it will look like crap again in a couple of months...
Thanks, Rob! I wouldn't worry about cleaning up the engine bay either if I were you. That's actually the first time I've cleaned it since I've owned this rig. I went ahead and cleaned the engine on my '97 about a week later, and that was the first time that one has been cleaned in 6 years. Both will get dirty again soon, but for now I'm thinking about eating some lasagna off the intake manifolds while I still can.
Hey, Ervin! Thanks for the congrats. Once you came out of the mix after you'd taken both T4ROTM and T4ROTY in 2012, the rest of us finally had a chance to win! It was a nice little triumph.
Fastolds,
Thanks for reading through the thread. The one and ONLY reason I have time to work on the 4Runner and post in this build thread, is that I have I have an incredible Wife, who affords me the time to do so. She does an amazing job of watching our Daughter, and gives me the free time to not only work on the truck, but to go fishing as well. I'm a lucky man.
I'm glad the thread is helping you get motivated to fire up that welder! The first step is getting it out of the box. Then just find yourself some metal scraps and start experimenting.
I appreciate the compliments, and thanks again for reading.
Thanks! The tensioner has held up perfectly. The belt is still running nice and tight, and although I still get a little bit of belt slip, I think that it's due to the smaller S/C pulley combined with the general nature of the dynamic tensioner arrangement. When you accelerate suddently, the belt instantly puts a big load on the tensioner, at which point I believe the belt slips just bit on the S/C pulley. It's more of a momentary problem than a constant one.
zgensler31
Senior Member
Question for you regarding your grill. Im going about mine the same way and am using the same material frok customcargrills.com but in pc black. Anyways...did you put any bend to the mesh before installing it? If so jow did you go about doing that?
BigFishAllDay
New member
No sir. The only bends in the material were located where I created the mounting "tabs" around the outside edges of the grille material. I did not put any bend whatsoever into the face of the material.
I do know why you ask that question though. The grille surround has a slight outward curve to it, however if you secure the new grille material tightly enough at the right locations, it will pull up against that curve, resulting in a slight outward bend that matches the countour of the plastic surround.
TCMach
New member
Cut down that monster of a quote.
And I don't mean to speak for him but I'm positive he installed it himself as have many others including me (like 3 times) haha. You really only need hand tools, floor jack, and jack stands. Maybe a spring compressor depending on how big your rear coils are and if your fronts come assembled or not. My first lift (TRD tundras and LC7.5 wraps, the same lift you quoted here) I installed with sockets, a hammer, wrenches, and jack stands.
NateMob
New member
[MENTION=97491]Joerocho[/MENTION] , you've got to stop quoting these entire posts man, it eats up bandwidth for the site as well as through the OP's photo-hosting site, edit your post above to save everyone some grief please.
No doubt Nick installed 98% of everything you see on his truck, the dude is a master of all trades.
No doubt Nick installed 98% of everything you see on his truck, the dude is a master of all trades.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Sorry! I understand totally. My bad. Anyways, could I install my own? Do I need any special tool that a shop might have that I wouldn't? Because a lot of people are telling me that I will need a shop to install it but I would like to do it myself if at all possible.
NateMob
New member
Not trying to be a dick, hope you know that.
That depends, if you are even remotely mechanically inclined i would say yes, if not i would get a buddy that is to help out and show you along the way. The suspensions on our trucks aren't overly complicated or engineered, most everything would come with instructions and you can google how to do damn near anything on our trucks. I would do some more searching and research on everything involved and go for it. No special tools needed, anything you dont have, you could probably rent through a local auto parts store. :thumb:
Can you tell me at what notch did you place the front struts at?
and if you left the bump stops in the rear coils?
I just installed the tundra coils(y/y y/b) in the front with 5100 bilstein with 5 notches. Set at second notch from bottom to top. I used 8 wrap lc coils in the rear and its raking bad. yours looks really leveled. I have 22.25" in the front and 25.5" in the rear. everything else is stock. I have a 98 SR5.
Thank
Pepe
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Do you know what page has this information?
Thanks
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