I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd

[BigFishAllDay]

I started re-hosting some of them on imgur, and got through page 8 or 9, I think. Also anything that has been posted since the PB blowup is hosted on imgur.

However, everything in the middle is only showing up due to the fix which adds "~original" to the PB URL, applied by forum admin.

 

[infantry503]

I have taken the last 3 days to look through this build. This is very impressive and you have a lot of talent building things that are rad. Gave me a ton of ideas for my 00. Now I just need to find the time to start. It is pretty much bone stock except for what seems to be a 2 inch lift and a 1st gen supercharger. My next move is to do a propper coil lift and some new tires. I think I am going to put 265/70/17 goodyear MT/R and then the TRD Pro sema wheels. Should turn out to bee a pretty decent looking truck when I am finished

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Our family has been trying to make the most of fall, and the '01 is seeing a lot of miles. These are a few photos from recent trips...

 

[Bijan]

......

5.6875" Long... I took my measurements from Dr. Z's writeup here >>> http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_intake/dr_z.htm . If I did it again, I'd have the exhaust shop expand the ends out a another 1/16 for a full 2.75" OD. It fit fine as it was, but I had to tighten the clamps way down to get it tight... at 2.75" it would fit a little better and you wouldn't crank the clamps down so tight.

May I ask - why not go with a full 2.75" the whole pipe - instead of just the ends?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

No good reason, really. That is a good idea if the shop you use has 2.75" tubing available (I didn't ask the shop I used when I had that ISR tube made because I didn't know I wanted 2.75" until after the fact).

I don't think the machine they use to expand the tubing is capable of expanding a full length of tubing, rather just the ends to allow for a slip fit from one tube to the next or to get a more precise butt joint.

I'd advise people to go for the AIRAID Jr. intake tube from the get go, anyway. It looks much cleaner, and flows better.

 

[TB12GOAT]

Incredible build thread. Thank you for so many pictures, detailed informative posts, and inspiration! Looking forward to using your truck as a goal for mine (as soon as I can get my hands on one).

 

[wrench.n.wheel]

A week or so later and I have finished reading through this damn masterpiece of a thread. Thank you for all the detailed pictures and how-tos. I have tons of ideas and not enough time or money to get to them, but someday!

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Incredible build thread. Thank you for so many pictures, detailed informative posts, and inspiration! Looking forward to using your truck as a goal for mine (as soon as I can get my hands on one).

A week or so later and I have finished reading through this damn masterpiece of a thread. Thank you for all the detailed pictures and how-tos. I have tons of ideas and not enough time or money to get to them, but someday!

Thanks to both of you for taking the time to read through the build. [MENTION=183448]TB12GOAT[/MENTION] , I hope you find a nice clean rig to build. [MENTION=174573]krutoydiesel[/MENTION] , you hit the nail on the head there, man... time or money is always the problem.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

This post is a catch up post for me, and a place marker for future reference. In the last two weeks, the '01 has received the following maintenance:

- New Windshield (PGW DOT563, Chinese glass) w/SolarGard Ultra Performance Plus 80 tint
- 5 Tire rotation and balance
- Full interior detail
- Exterior wash
- Undercarrriage wash
- Dropped skids & degreased undercarriage w/Gunk Original Degreaser
- Full hand detail of engine bay
- Drain / fill T-Case, refill with Redline 75w90 synthetic
- Drain / fill front diff, refill with Lucas 75w90 synthetic
- Drain / fill rear diff, refill with Valvoline 80w90 conventional
- Drain / fill transmission, refill with Napa conventional / Valvoline MaxLife synthetic Dex3 ATF and 1 bottle Lucas Transmission Fix. Clean trans pan and re-torque pan bolts.
- Change Engine Oil and Filter, Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 synthetic blend & Wix 51348
- Replaced Supercharger nose cone oil, refill with GM/ACDelco Pt #12345982
- Lucas fuel injector cleaner added to full tank of gas
- Clean and lube F/R driveshafts (all spiders, slide yokes, and double cardan) w/Lucas Red N Tacky lithium complex grease
- Power Steering flush with NAPA / Valvoline Dex3 ATF
- New OEM Spark Plug wires & inspect spark plugs
- Remove clear corners, back to OEM corner lenses
- Replaced missing mounting bolt on gas tank skid (RR bolt)
- Replaced button head bolt on rear driveshaft (deformed due to skid contact)

The only major things left on my maintenance list are a T-Belt/WP/Radiator replacement, and new front LCA's (current bushings are shot). After that, this 4Runner will be all caught up and ready for many more trouble free miles.

I was beginning to accumulate various fluids in the garage which were either leftovers from prior fluid changes, or bottles that I carried on trips for emergencies. The '01 was due for several fluids, so I just decided to get a few extra bottles and baseline the whole vehicle again.

The windshield has been cracked for years, and since I've never treated myself to a new one before I decided to have it replaced. The glass shop had a demo station setup to illustrate the heat reduction available from tinting the windshield and I was amazed, so I went big and had them do that too. It almost doubled the price of the job, but it makes an incredible difference in the amount of heat coming through the windshield.

While I was at it, I made a couple of clean spots and one thing led to another. The vehicle is now very clean overall... top to bottom, inside and out.

Old windshield headed for the dumpster...see the cracks right in the driver's line of sight?

It looks kinda funny with no windshield. The shop took the time to do a few little extras like running a small strip of adhesive foam across the leading edge of the dash (not visible in photo). It puts a little bit of pressure on the dash to reduce/prevent rattles.

Wonderful, wonderful clear glass... I can see again.

PGW Glass, DOT563... Shenzhen Automotive Glass Mfg. P.R.O.C.

See this thread for the DOT code list > LINK

Good glass info here, too > OEM, OEE, and Aftermarket Auto Glass Brands we sell

I asked about Pilkington Glass, and it was available on the day I called for a quote, but the warehouse didn't have any the day I had the job done. Going through the DOT code list, it looks like much of their glass is Chinese too. I inspected the PGW glass prior to install and it looked fine to me, so I went with it.

Gear oil grab bag... Redline went in the case with Lucas to top it off, Lucas in the front diff, and Valvoline dino in the rear. The old oils looked good. The diffs only had about 12K on their oil, and the T-case about 33K. The diffs had Lucas conventional 85w140 in them, at the recommendation of East Coast Gear Supply. I have always felt like that oil was too thick, and that it hurt my MPG and cold start performance, so I took the opportunity to go back to OE spec oils.

Time to make the supercharger happy... I found this method of removing the old oil in a youtube video and it worked like a charm.

Old oil looked good after 34K...

Time to love the engine... I've been alternating between WIX and OEM filters as I have some of each on hand. I also flushed the Power Steering fluid at this point, but took no pictures. The old fluid was nasty, and I haven't touched it since I've owned the 4Runner, so it was time.

When I put in my IPT Valve Body, I used one of the supplied cork gaskets rather than Toyota Orange FIPG. Unfortunately the cork didn't provide a great seal and the trans pan has been weeping oil for 26K miles. I had a bunch of built up grease on the trans/t-case.

Rather than drop the pan for a re-seal I tried a re-torque. One by one I backed off the pan mounting bolts and re-torqued them to the proper value (about 6 ft/lbs). Every bolt was under torqued, despite the fact I used a torque wrench on them at install. I think the cork compressed over time and allowed the pan to start weeping. I noticed here that the 1999 version of the FSM has a egregious error... showing 65 FT/LBS for these bolts, when it should be IN/LBS. Maybe that's part of the reason why so many people strip them out.

Dex3 Trans Fluid grab bag... I had the Lucas Transmission Fix on hand from a couple years ago when my wife's 2000 started having some weird tranny issues. I flushed that vehicle and it resolved the issues, so the Lucas was left over. I didn't read anything on the bottle that made me think it would cause any harm, so I added it to the refill.

My "One-Size-Fits-All" grease for the driveshafts...

I drained 4.5 quarts from the pan, and the fluid was bright red and clear. Notice all the gunk on the pan.

After cleaning trans pan and front DS. I removed all old caked on grease from the driveshafts, pumped the spiders full of new grease and removed all the old stuff that got pushed out, then degreased/cleaned the whole shaft.

Rear shaft, looking shiny. Notice the chewed up circumference of the larger barrel section of the shaft... spun it on a few rocks I guess. The slip yoke collar also has minor dents, but slides as it should. I noticed while I was back there that I lost the mounting bolt for the gas tank skid on the RR, and that the button head bolt I used to replace the slip yoke zerk was all chewed up, so that got replaced too.

New plug wires going in... I checked the plugs and they look fine, but I have a new set of IK22s ready to go when they come due.

The existing wires were fine, but were dated 2008. I had a brand new 2015 set that came with the Tacoma, so I replaced them just to get things up to date.

I've been cleaning the engine bay off and on as I go, and it is getting close to done. I'm going to hit every hose, wire loom, and surface that I can reach easily, then do a spray and wash degreasing w/Gunk engine degreaser.

I also started bringing my maintenance/mods spreadsheet up to date on this rig, and it's about 90% done. I have some formulas built into the spreadsheet to generate sums of various costs. The number it is spitting out for total cost of mods/maintenance (not incl purchase price) during my ownership to date is $23K, and there's still a few grand that isn't in that total.

Oh well, it's only money and she purrs.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

After all the work, I wanted to see how the rig was running so I took her out for an easy day trip. Like I said, she purrs. 75 down the highway with the SC whining its tune, no vibes whatsoever, and a nice clean view through the windshield is nice.

 

[habanero]

Well done. Also, wow has someone grown!

 

[Unner]

Maintenance keeps the rig happy! So how many miles are on the '01 now Nick? And what degreaser did you use on the transmission pan and front driveshaft? I saw that picture and said WOW! Looks brand new!

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Well done. Also, wow has someone grown!

She sure has, and WAY too fast. Months and years seem to pass in the blink of an eye and trying to hold on to our time with these kids is like trying to hold a handful of sand, it just slips through your fingers.

Thanks for checking in, and I hope you and the family are doing well. Happy Thanksgiving!

Maintenance keeps the rig happy! So how many miles are on the '01 now Nick? And what degreaser did you use on the transmission pan and front driveshaft? I saw that picture and said WOW! Looks brand new!

Indeed. The mileage is at 151K right now. I think I saw a post from you saying that you were due for a lot of the same upkeep on your rig.

For a degreaser, I like the Gunk products. I hit the whole undercarriage with a can of the "Original" aerosol first, then power washed it at a car wash. The one I have been using on the engine, trans pan, driveshafts, etc comes in a spray bottle rather than aerosol... Gunk part #EBT32.

https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-EBT32-Engine-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B00EDDX7L4

That one I either spray directly onto the part, or onto a paper towel, then scrub. I've been using a small brush in the engine bay to remove the really cooked on grime.

..................................................................................

Yesterday I made a little more progress on the engine bay... who can tell what large item got cleaned & refurbished?

Here's a hint...

 

[Volcom]

Looks good Nick! Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family! I missed seeing you this summer. Hopefully next summer we can plan something! Mt Blanca???

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Hey Aaron, Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours as well!

I definitely missed hanging out with you guys this year. I'm really itching to make the next big trip with you guys... I've missed two now due to changes in circumstances over the last year.

Things seem to be getting straightened out with life, and I'll be getting the rig all caught up on maintenance through the winter, so next summer we should be good to go. Blanca still gives me the willies, but I think it's doable, especially if we have some bigger rigs like yours to help solve problems.

 

[kolelt]

Hey awesome build. I simply use 80-90 gear oil for front diff, tcase and rear diff. I only use redline for my 5 speed. No issues. Basically what the manual says. I believe front diff calls for 75-90 but 80-90 will be fine.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Hey awesome build. I simply use 80-90 gear oil for front diff, tcase and rear diff. I only use redline for my 5 speed. No issues. Basically what the manual says. I believe front diff calls for 75-90 but 80-90 will be fine.

Thanks. You're right... to keep it simple, a guy could use 80-90 in all three, but like I said, I had some leftover 75w90 so I got a little more and used it where Toyota told me to.

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I grabbed a new toy for my on-board tool kit today. I have wanted one of these since I changed a CV axle using [MENTION=95069]TBuzz[/MENTION] 's Dewalt on the trail a few years ago. Having the cordless impact made the job a breeze.

These things are going for $80, tool only. The charger is $40 and the batteries are $10 for the 1.5Ah and $20 for the 2.0Ah. It'll spin up 200lb/ft of torque, and online reviewers seem to be raving about the value/quality/performance. I figured I can't go wrong. After a quick test on lug nuts, which it handled easily, I think it'll work out great.

Went to the local junkyard and grabbed a few of these from 2nd gen 4Runners. Anyone have an idea where this will go? I know [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] does.

Camelback Toyota got $382 out of my pocket for some new front suspension parts.

Last but not least, I grabbed some parts from Wheelers at 50% off that rhyme with "Steak fines".

 

[Unner]

These things are going for $80, tool only. The charger is $40 and the batteries are $10 for the 1.5Ah and $20 for the 2.0Ah. It'll spin up 200lb/ft of torque, and online reviewers seem to be raving about the value/quality/performance. I figured I can't go wrong. After a quick test on lug nuts, which it handled easily, I think it'll work out great.


Went to the local junkyard and grabbed a few of these from 2nd gen 4Runners. Anyone have an idea where this will go?


Last but not least, I grabbed some parts from Wheelers at 50% off that rhyme with "Steak fines".

That electric impact would be very nice for rotating tires, much easier than getting the compressor, hose, and impact out. Which is why I never do that and just use a breaker bar...


Brackets for limit straps? Or Cargo tie downs maybe?


You got Snake Mines from Wheelers?!

 

[Black798]

Might have just been a fluke because the rear brake line I received from wheelers worked just fine. But the fronts when I went to put them on the threads on the new lines were slightly different, different tolerance or something. But they wouldn't hold tension when I went to tighten them and I am certain they weren't cross threaded because the OEM line went back on just fine.

I returned them and got a set from toytec so well see if those work better...

 

[BigFishAllDay]

That electric impact would be very nice for rotating tires, much easier than getting the compressor, hose, and impact out. Which is why I never do that and just use a breaker bar...

Brackets for limit straps? Or Cargo tie downs maybe?

You got Snake Mines from Wheelers?!

Yup, got lucky and they had Snake Mines in stock!!

In the garage, I've been using a cheapo HF 120V corded impact and it gets the job done. It is full size, though, so it can't reach certain areas. This cordless gun is sweet because it's small and can fit just about anywhere, but still has decent power.

You're on the right track with your second guess regarding the seat belt.

Might have just been a fluke because the rear brake line I received from wheelers worked just fine. But the fronts when I went to put them on the threads on the new lines were slightly different, different tolerance or something. But they wouldn't hold tension when I went to tighten them and I am certain they weren't cross threaded because the OEM line went back on just fine.

I returned them and got a set from toytec so well see if those work better...

Thanks for the heads up. There are a lot of guys running the lines from Wheelers, and the only complaint I could find was that they get a little taut when the suspension is at full droop. I guess we'll see how it goes on install day.