I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
zgensler31
Senior Member
Definitely no on the wheels. I like the style of them but definitely not the finish..
quicksilvr
New member
Everything on the previous page is WIN.
Except the wheels.
Those are pretty damn ugly.
Except the wheels.
Those are pretty damn ugly.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Will do. I just get crazy ideas sometimes and need someone to slap the sense back into me.
Thanks for the input man. The wheels are Raceline Renegade 6's, which also come in black.
Everything on the previous page is WIN.
Except the wheels.
Those are pretty damn ugly.
That was funny. I lol'd. :nerd:
Believe it or not, I clipped the wheels from a picture of Addicted Off Road's old black SAS rig. I always thought they looked good on that 4Runner. Although, I guess with a rig like that you can pull off just about anything... he could have gone with pink wheels and we would have all said:
"Eh, looks ok, I guess."
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steezemcqueen
Moderator
Looking good Nick!
I love my HH140 welder too! Building my rear bumper with it and if you go slow, you can do 1/4 inch.
I love my HH140 welder too! Building my rear bumper with it and if you go slow, you can do 1/4 inch.
zgensler31
Senior Member
Oh awesome. I didn't realize that's what they were. My dad just put some renegade 8s on his work van. In black too. Definitely a nice looking wheel for the price.
SCRunner12
New member
Do you know what height you're at up front? Middle of hub to flare? Also I'm very jealous of your welder. I will be getting the same welder unless I can find a cheap 220v. Glad everything is going well with your wife and daughter as well.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Hey Dylan, thanks! I can't believe how quick those skids got to my door, you guys are on it up there @ Toytec. Also, I appreciate you responding to the note I left on my order. Alot of vendors just ignore those notes from customers.
RE the welder, I've heard literally NOTHING but good things. It's a "can't go wrong" item in my book.
Indeed. The 8's are nice.
SCRunner, my front end is @ 23" hub to flare and 38 1/4" ground to flare on both sides, with the tires @ about 30PSI. Keep an eye on that link I posted for the reconditioned A-stock units on Amazon. They are a killer deal. For $389 I couldn't pass it up, and Hobart has the most incredible customer service I've ever experienced.
When I first set mine up, the gun had a short and would feed wire anytime the power was turned on. I called Hobart and they overnighted me a new gun. Then I noticed the power cord had a slice in it and they sent me one of those too, got it in 3 days. No questions asked on either part. They stand behind their product, reconditioned or new, it doesn't matter.
SCRunner12
New member
Thanks for the measurement. I'm at 23" as well and wasn't sure what amount of lift that roughly was. I have about 1" of rake, so I'm happy with there I'm at.
I think you convinced me to get the Hobart unless I find an amazing deal on a 220 somewhere else. Thanks for the review!
BigFishAllDay
New member
I wasn't expecting to get anything done for awhile, but my Wife went to get her nails done this afternoon and she took the Baby along too. That left me to my own devices for 3 hours before I had to get to work.
What to do? What to do?
I decided to install the new OEM Black Tokico 80 Series LC Shocks I picked up. The Toyota part number on these is 48531-69417, and if you were going to order by application you would ask for a REAR shock absorber for a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser.
The LC shocks include the RUBBER BUSHINGS and TOP NUT ONLY!!!. The OEM part diagrams online and at your local dealer will show that the shocks include the rubber bushings AND all the hardware, but that is not correct.
The additional hardware you need is:
4 x Toyota Part # 90948-02144.... Bend over, because these washers are $10... EACH.
I also picked up the LC centering washers, but it turns out they cannot be used on 3rd Gen 4Runners. Just for reference, they are part # 90948-02141, and cost about $7 each.
The first task was to remove my Bilstein 5100's, which was relatively uneventful thanks to the design of the Bilstein shocks. The shaft on the Billies has a 5mm hex shaped hole on the end, so I used a hex key socket and my ratchet, along with a 17mm wrench to hold the top nut, and they spun right off. These 5100's were included with my Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift kit when I purchased it 2 years ago. I would have liked to compare the LC shocks to a factory 4Runner shock as well, but none of my 4Runners have OEM shocks on them and the ones I removed were discarded long ago.
Once off the truck I started comparing the 5100's to the OEM LC shocks. Some things you might notice in this picture:
- The 5100's and the OEM LC shocks are almost the exact same length uncompressed.
- The size of the tube (and I would assume the piston inside) is about the same.
- The lower eye mount is the same size
- The OEM LC shocks have little skid plates welded onto the front of the shock, see bottom RH side of LC shock in pic below
- Metal dust cover on the OEM LC shock, versus a rubber boot on the 5100
Moving up to the top of the shock, there are some big differences between the two:
-The upper mounting shaft is much larger on the LC shock. IIRC, I measured it @ 9/16" OD. The top of the Bilstein shaft was maybe 3/8" OD. The inner diameters of the upper/lower retaining washers and rubber bushings had corresponding measurements.
- The bushings used on the LC shock are much thicker and wider, and the hardware (upper & lower retaining washers) are much thicker.
Pictured below are the centering washers for the LC shock (LH side), an aftermarket OEM replacement Rancho shock (middle), and an OEM shock that came off my wife's 2000 (thank goodness I keep every last piece of hardware that comes off my vehicles). These washers sit above the lower rubber bushing, between the bushing and the bottom of the upper shock mount. They are a critical part because without them, the shock's upper shaft will move around inside the mounting hole on the shock mount, and slowly widen and stretch the hole. The centering washers on my 5100's didn't have much of a lip to them and when I removed the 5100's I noticed a slight enlargement of the upper shock mounting hole @ one edge on both sides.
Notice the LC centering washer is much wider, and thicker than the 4Runner parts. Most importantly, notice the size of the center hole on the LC washer... it's HUGE.
The raised centering section of the LC centering washer WILL NOT fit into the hole on the upper shock mount of a 3rd gen 4Runner. You cannot use the LC centering washers without drilling out the hole on your 4Runner to accommodate the larger raised center section.
Both the aftermarket & OEM 4Runner centering washers fit nicely over the shaft of the LC shock, and fit the hole on the upper shock mount of the vehicle, so I decided to use them instead.
LC centering washer on LC upper mounting shaft. The mounting holes on the rear upper shock mounts on 80 series LC's must be quite a bit bigger than the ones on a 4Runner.
4Runner centering washer on LC upper mounting shaft... a much better fit. Notice how the centering washer is the same diameter as the LC bushing... more on this later.
Just for the sake of comparison, this shot shows a LC upper/lower retaining washer next to one of the 5100's upper/lower retaining washers.
On the Driver's side I decided to use the aftermarket (Rancho) OEM replacement centering washer, along with the LC upper/lower retaining washers. The Rancho washer had a little bit taller lip than the OEM washers and it was a tighter fit in the upper mounting hole. I would have used these washers on both sides, but I could only find one.
This is how parts that sit BELOW the shock mount look when assembled onto the shock's mounting shaft.
And with the top bushing, retaining washer, & top nut...
Driver's side installed!! On the bottom of the shock you use the two bushings that are included w/the LC shocks, and the OEM 4Runner mounting bolt & washers.
Compared to the old 5100 on the passenger side...
On the passenger side, I had to re-use one of the OEM 4Runner centering washers. I just chose the one that was in the best shape w/mimimal corrosion.
Remember earlier I mentioned that the LC bushings were the same diameter as the 4Runner centering washers? Well, the only problem with that is when you tighten down the top nut and compress the bushings, they flare out past the edge of the centering washer on the top side. This causes the edge of the washer to sort of "dig into" the bushing. I'm not sure if this will result in premature bushing wear, but I'd rather replace some bushings now and then than drill out my frame to accept the LC centering washer.
That's about it... Done...
... And done...
ONE FINAL NOTE.... I spoke with NachoPitt today, who happened to be doing this same install on his 4Runner. He advised that the upper lower retaining washers from a 4Runner will NOT fit over the shaft of the LC shock. This means you either MUST purchase the LC hardware, or you MUST drill out the center bores on the OEM 4Runner hardware. I prefer to use the LC upper/lower washers because they are wider and do a better job of supporting the taller/wider LC rubber bushings.
Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of some OEM 4Runner upper/lower retaining washers, and compare their center bores to that of the OEM 4Runner centering washers to see if there is a difference, then edit in the info.
Last but not least, while I was wrenching I figured I'd throw a few coats of paint on the rear UCA's I built and get them ready for install. Installing the LC shocks between coats was better than watching paint dry.
What to do? What to do?
I decided to install the new OEM Black Tokico 80 Series LC Shocks I picked up. The Toyota part number on these is 48531-69417, and if you were going to order by application you would ask for a REAR shock absorber for a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser.
The LC shocks include the RUBBER BUSHINGS and TOP NUT ONLY!!!. The OEM part diagrams online and at your local dealer will show that the shocks include the rubber bushings AND all the hardware, but that is not correct.
The additional hardware you need is:
4 x Toyota Part # 90948-02144.... Bend over, because these washers are $10... EACH.
I also picked up the LC centering washers, but it turns out they cannot be used on 3rd Gen 4Runners. Just for reference, they are part # 90948-02141, and cost about $7 each.
The first task was to remove my Bilstein 5100's, which was relatively uneventful thanks to the design of the Bilstein shocks. The shaft on the Billies has a 5mm hex shaped hole on the end, so I used a hex key socket and my ratchet, along with a 17mm wrench to hold the top nut, and they spun right off. These 5100's were included with my Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift kit when I purchased it 2 years ago. I would have liked to compare the LC shocks to a factory 4Runner shock as well, but none of my 4Runners have OEM shocks on them and the ones I removed were discarded long ago.
Once off the truck I started comparing the 5100's to the OEM LC shocks. Some things you might notice in this picture:
- The 5100's and the OEM LC shocks are almost the exact same length uncompressed.
- The size of the tube (and I would assume the piston inside) is about the same.
- The lower eye mount is the same size
- The OEM LC shocks have little skid plates welded onto the front of the shock, see bottom RH side of LC shock in pic below
- Metal dust cover on the OEM LC shock, versus a rubber boot on the 5100
Moving up to the top of the shock, there are some big differences between the two:
-The upper mounting shaft is much larger on the LC shock. IIRC, I measured it @ 9/16" OD. The top of the Bilstein shaft was maybe 3/8" OD. The inner diameters of the upper/lower retaining washers and rubber bushings had corresponding measurements.
- The bushings used on the LC shock are much thicker and wider, and the hardware (upper & lower retaining washers) are much thicker.
Pictured below are the centering washers for the LC shock (LH side), an aftermarket OEM replacement Rancho shock (middle), and an OEM shock that came off my wife's 2000 (thank goodness I keep every last piece of hardware that comes off my vehicles). These washers sit above the lower rubber bushing, between the bushing and the bottom of the upper shock mount. They are a critical part because without them, the shock's upper shaft will move around inside the mounting hole on the shock mount, and slowly widen and stretch the hole. The centering washers on my 5100's didn't have much of a lip to them and when I removed the 5100's I noticed a slight enlargement of the upper shock mounting hole @ one edge on both sides.
Notice the LC centering washer is much wider, and thicker than the 4Runner parts. Most importantly, notice the size of the center hole on the LC washer... it's HUGE.
The raised centering section of the LC centering washer WILL NOT fit into the hole on the upper shock mount of a 3rd gen 4Runner. You cannot use the LC centering washers without drilling out the hole on your 4Runner to accommodate the larger raised center section.
Both the aftermarket & OEM 4Runner centering washers fit nicely over the shaft of the LC shock, and fit the hole on the upper shock mount of the vehicle, so I decided to use them instead.
LC centering washer on LC upper mounting shaft. The mounting holes on the rear upper shock mounts on 80 series LC's must be quite a bit bigger than the ones on a 4Runner.
4Runner centering washer on LC upper mounting shaft... a much better fit. Notice how the centering washer is the same diameter as the LC bushing... more on this later.
Just for the sake of comparison, this shot shows a LC upper/lower retaining washer next to one of the 5100's upper/lower retaining washers.
On the Driver's side I decided to use the aftermarket (Rancho) OEM replacement centering washer, along with the LC upper/lower retaining washers. The Rancho washer had a little bit taller lip than the OEM washers and it was a tighter fit in the upper mounting hole. I would have used these washers on both sides, but I could only find one.
This is how parts that sit BELOW the shock mount look when assembled onto the shock's mounting shaft.
And with the top bushing, retaining washer, & top nut...
Driver's side installed!! On the bottom of the shock you use the two bushings that are included w/the LC shocks, and the OEM 4Runner mounting bolt & washers.
Compared to the old 5100 on the passenger side...
On the passenger side, I had to re-use one of the OEM 4Runner centering washers. I just chose the one that was in the best shape w/mimimal corrosion.
Remember earlier I mentioned that the LC bushings were the same diameter as the 4Runner centering washers? Well, the only problem with that is when you tighten down the top nut and compress the bushings, they flare out past the edge of the centering washer on the top side. This causes the edge of the washer to sort of "dig into" the bushing. I'm not sure if this will result in premature bushing wear, but I'd rather replace some bushings now and then than drill out my frame to accept the LC centering washer.
That's about it... Done...
... And done...
ONE FINAL NOTE.... I spoke with NachoPitt today, who happened to be doing this same install on his 4Runner. He advised that the upper lower retaining washers from a 4Runner will NOT fit over the shaft of the LC shock. This means you either MUST purchase the LC hardware, or you MUST drill out the center bores on the OEM 4Runner hardware. I prefer to use the LC upper/lower washers because they are wider and do a better job of supporting the taller/wider LC rubber bushings.
Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of some OEM 4Runner upper/lower retaining washers, and compare their center bores to that of the OEM 4Runner centering washers to see if there is a difference, then edit in the info.
Last but not least, while I was wrenching I figured I'd throw a few coats of paint on the rear UCA's I built and get them ready for install. Installing the LC shocks between coats was better than watching paint dry.
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I understand the size issue (LC bigger, 4runner smaller) but the price for those things is insane. I called the dealership on Cooper and they quoted me at $15 each for the discs. The crotchity guys at the Alameda dealership are so sick of seeing me I dont think I could get them to get me a bottle of water. I am going to try drilling them tomorrow and see.
I am a bit concerned about the disc cutting into the bushing - definitely something to keep an eye on.
I am a bit concerned about the disc cutting into the bushing - definitely something to keep an eye on.
poleclimber63
Member
Brilliant!
I'll keep your info handy when I re-boot! The welding looks like you've been doing it awhile, wow! Your detail again, reads like a shop manual! Looking forward to seeing the "new" hardware installed! I don't know when you're finding the time for all this with a newborn afoot!
You must have a very forgiving Wife... I remember when ours were born (I've now 3 teenage boys to deal with!) my Wife was totally exhausted as our first 2 didnt sleep thru the night until they were a year old!! It was exhausting the first 6 months, until she/baby settled into a routine (which changed quickly as the babies grew!!) and I was 2nd shift, when she was sleeping or working! I had all sorts of tasks I wanted to attend to, from work on the house to car repair, but what happened was that almost everything was put on hold until they reached 5 or 6 years old....
Love the baby stage (only lasts 9-14 months!) we basically had 1.5 hrs in the morning and 1.5 hrs in the afternoon to do jobs (evenings as well)... it was a hard adjustment when they started dropping naps! Loved the toddler stage, lots of exploring-- this was the period they needed to be watched at all times, but this was the period we did most of our camping--- I was the mule with the piggy back frame, for going on all the hikes. Enjoy it!!
I'll keep your info handy when I re-boot! The welding looks like you've been doing it awhile, wow! Your detail again, reads like a shop manual! Looking forward to seeing the "new" hardware installed! I don't know when you're finding the time for all this with a newborn afoot!
You must have a very forgiving Wife... I remember when ours were born (I've now 3 teenage boys to deal with!) my Wife was totally exhausted as our first 2 didnt sleep thru the night until they were a year old!! It was exhausting the first 6 months, until she/baby settled into a routine (which changed quickly as the babies grew!!) and I was 2nd shift, when she was sleeping or working! I had all sorts of tasks I wanted to attend to, from work on the house to car repair, but what happened was that almost everything was put on hold until they reached 5 or 6 years old....
Love the baby stage (only lasts 9-14 months!) we basically had 1.5 hrs in the morning and 1.5 hrs in the afternoon to do jobs (evenings as well)... it was a hard adjustment when they started dropping naps! Loved the toddler stage, lots of exploring-- this was the period they needed to be watched at all times, but this was the period we did most of our camping--- I was the mule with the piggy back frame, for going on all the hikes. Enjoy it!!
poleclimber63
Member
Almost forgot..
Your Wife was spot on about the rims.... I love the setup you have now.... your truck is immaculate, it has an implied ruggedness, built to go places without the road, putting those rims on, would be like hanging a tiara on a racehorse... Your rig isn't meant to stay on the pavement...
my 2 cents....
Your Wife was spot on about the rims.... I love the setup you have now.... your truck is immaculate, it has an implied ruggedness, built to go places without the road, putting those rims on, would be like hanging a tiara on a racehorse... Your rig isn't meant to stay on the pavement...
my 2 cents....
BigFishAllDay
New member
The guys @ the Alameda dealership would have to beg me to buy parts from them. That's one of my pet peeves when someone hates their job and takes it out on the customer... They are supposed to be there to help, but they act like it's such a burden to do their job.
Thanks for the wisdom, Poleclimber. My Wife is definitely forgiving, but I pull my weight around here, so I feel like I earn the right to have some time to myself and she respects that. The baby stage has been great so far, but I keep hearing people echo your words, which is to say that it gets more challenging as they become more active. I guess we'll have to take it in stride and do our best, like all parents must do. I can't wait to get her out in the woods next summer.
Thanks for the feedback on the proposed wheels. That's a funny analogy, but I guess it's true. Thanks for the compliments on the rig and the nudge in the right direction.
4-Ripcord
New member
Those Alameda guys are complete A-holes especially that one old hispanic-ish guy that has the longer grey/brown hair and talks all quiet.. he hates me haha. Because I'm a d*ck right back to him. He see me walk in and just gives me a dirty ass look every time.
There is one guy that works there thats cool though, older skinny gentleman with real short hair named Jim. We're cool haha.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Rear Upper & Lower Links....
I spent some time today and yesterday afternoon getting the rear dialed in. The Toytec Rear LCA skids are installed, and the custom UCA's are on too.
First I got the factory LCA's removed and mocked them up on the Toytec Skids. I made marks where I wanted to lay the welds and ran a flap disc over the LCA's and the skids to make sure I had clean metal to weld.
All welded up...
Self Etching Primer...
Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Enamel...
I didn't want water settling inbetween the skids and the LCA's to I took some silicone gasket maker ("The Right Stuff" from Permatex) and used it to seal all the joints between the LCA's and the skids. This stuff is good from -75 to 450 degrees F and resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids, so it should hold up and keep the water out/rust off.
I threw the wheels/tires back on and set the truck down, then checked the pinion angle to see how it looked prior to installing the new custom UCA's.
It didn't look too bad, but there was definitely some downward angle between the pinion on the diff and the driveshaft. I've been getting some vibes around 65mph and I think this was contributing to the problem.
After installing the new UCA's, it's looking much better. Nice and straight.
Next up I had to take this beech for a test drive. I wanted to ensure that the panhard bar would clear the axle housing and associated parts once the rear axle was flexed... so I flexed it...
And things look good...
Going the other way...
The LCA skids all ready to smash some granite...
It may look pretty standard, but those with a sharp eye will see a ton of upgraded gear in this shot...
I spent a half hour out there putting the '01 through it's paces and everything performed BEAUTIFULLY. I had no interference due to the UCA's, the LCA's fit and looked great, and the new 80 series LC shocks are AWESOME!
The 861's and the LC shocks are far and away the best rear suspension combo I have ever felt on a 3rd gen. The ride is tight and controlled, and the shocks have 100% settled down the bounce from the 861's. I used to be able to get the rear end to bob a little during wide turns, but now it feels planted and stable. I tore down the bottom of a dry wash @ about 30mph and the rear suspension sucked up the bumps incredibly well.
I could see this setup being a little firm/tall for those without a ton of extra weight, but if you've got heavy rear setup you should absolutely consider 861's w/OEM 80 Series LC shocks. It's perfect IMO.
I spent some time today and yesterday afternoon getting the rear dialed in. The Toytec Rear LCA skids are installed, and the custom UCA's are on too.
First I got the factory LCA's removed and mocked them up on the Toytec Skids. I made marks where I wanted to lay the welds and ran a flap disc over the LCA's and the skids to make sure I had clean metal to weld.
All welded up...
Self Etching Primer...
Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Enamel...
I didn't want water settling inbetween the skids and the LCA's to I took some silicone gasket maker ("The Right Stuff" from Permatex) and used it to seal all the joints between the LCA's and the skids. This stuff is good from -75 to 450 degrees F and resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids, so it should hold up and keep the water out/rust off.
I threw the wheels/tires back on and set the truck down, then checked the pinion angle to see how it looked prior to installing the new custom UCA's.
It didn't look too bad, but there was definitely some downward angle between the pinion on the diff and the driveshaft. I've been getting some vibes around 65mph and I think this was contributing to the problem.
After installing the new UCA's, it's looking much better. Nice and straight.
Next up I had to take this beech for a test drive. I wanted to ensure that the panhard bar would clear the axle housing and associated parts once the rear axle was flexed... so I flexed it...
And things look good...
Going the other way...
The LCA skids all ready to smash some granite...
It may look pretty standard, but those with a sharp eye will see a ton of upgraded gear in this shot...
I spent a half hour out there putting the '01 through it's paces and everything performed BEAUTIFULLY. I had no interference due to the UCA's, the LCA's fit and looked great, and the new 80 series LC shocks are AWESOME!
The 861's and the LC shocks are far and away the best rear suspension combo I have ever felt on a 3rd gen. The ride is tight and controlled, and the shocks have 100% settled down the bounce from the 861's. I used to be able to get the rear end to bob a little during wide turns, but now it feels planted and stable. I tore down the bottom of a dry wash @ about 30mph and the rear suspension sucked up the bumps incredibly well.
I could see this setup being a little firm/tall for those without a ton of extra weight, but if you've got heavy rear setup you should absolutely consider 861's w/OEM 80 Series LC shocks. It's perfect IMO.
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LittleCaesar
New member
It looks as if you are putting that Hobart through its paces. Those LCAs should outlast the 4runner.
I wish I could sleep that soundly with my arms flung up by my head!
I wish I could sleep that soundly with my arms flung up by my head!
blcktpgsr
New member
Thanks for the link on the chop saw notching method..Long article but lots of good informative stuff.. Boy you're giving me more excuses to put the welder to use, aren't ya? but i'm gonna get into building that rear upper control link myself sooner or later to correct any downward angle between the diff pinion and the shaft.
Your welds have been improving as of late and the results definitely show. I'm impressed how well you've done to date from the short time you've had your 140...i guess with such a nice unit , it's impossible not to get good looking welds and penetration even with little practice, huh?
Keep it up man!
Your welds have been improving as of late and the results definitely show. I'm impressed how well you've done to date from the short time you've had your 140...i guess with such a nice unit , it's impossible not to get good looking welds and penetration even with little practice, huh?
Keep it up man!
Hepar
New member
Your welds have been improving as of late and the results definitely show. I'm impressed how well you've done to date from the short time you've had your 140...i guess with such a nice unit , it's impossible not to get good looking welds and penetration even with little practice, huh?
Keep it up man!
Agreed! Great updates. Clean and thought out as always. Count me in as a no on the wheels.
SCRunner12
New member
That's just because you have a Jim thing going on...
It may look pretty standard, but those with a sharp eye will see a ton of upgraded gear in this shot...
It was a busy day today... I think it's time to make like my Daughter, and......
Is it the longer bump stops? Also your daughter is sleep celebrating for you with that pose. Very cute and she has as much hair as my 2 year old!
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