I got the wobbles

Went back to Discount tire, apparently the first time I got the tires balanced they just threw them onto the machine with the normal hub-centric adapter.....I went to another store and told them I wanted it done with a hub-centric adapter and on a roadforce machine.....they told me 3 of the 4 were way out of balance.....took it for a test drive and everything feels good......maybe a tiny vibration now, probably imperceptible to anyone but me.

So, can't call me Michael J. anymore.....sorry.
 
you have lug centric wheels vs hub centric. need special adapter to properly balance tires. find shop that has a Hunter Road Force gsp9700. Hunter Wheel Balancers and Wheel Balancing Accessories - Hunter tire equipment improves overall balancing results, saves on wheel weight costs .
Just start googling 4runner shimmy wobble vibration and Road Force balance. This is a 'known' issue unknown by most, including most dealer service departments. Hunter website has a shop locator top middle of page. The combination of a Road Force balance plus the Straight Track process (where the machine compares all 4 tires and determines on which corner of the truck each wheel should go) absolutely solved my vibration and tracking issues.
I had a vibration which felt like an out of balance front tire. I knew it could not be an out of balance tire issue because they had been balanced twice in the past year. This was wrong. It was exactly what it seemed to be, an out of balance issue. I did Google google google = T4R posts about this issue = lug centric vs hub centric = Hunter Road Force gsp9700 tire balance machine. No more shimmy wobble felt through the steering wheel at various speeds. That combined with the Straight Track process made an astonishing difference. Astonishing because the problem is fixed. I drive along with a vibration free steering wheel and the truck tracks as straight as straight can be. It is joyous thing.
I replaced my radiator fan because it was warped after 180,000 miles and caused a noticeable vibration.
I will replace my transmission mount when the part arrives next week because my sagging transmission = misaligned drive shaft = mechanical roughness/vibration @ 2300-3000 rpm. I should be as smooth as smooth can be with new transmission mount. I'll let you know.
3 vibration sources: 1) out of balance tires, resolved. 2) warped radiator fan, resolved. 3) sagging transmission/driveshaft, to be fixed next week.
I went to a Les Schwab here in Denver I located via the Hunter website, which you may find helpful in the future.
(oops, didn't read entire thread. was replying to your initial post, thus the long thing about my lug centric journey. My other two fixes may be relevant to the tiny vibration you still feel).
 
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you have lug centric wheels vs hub centric. need special adapter to properly balance tires. find shop that has a Hunter Road Force gsp9700. Hunter Wheel Balancers and Wheel Balancing Accessories - Hunter tire equipment improves overall balancing results, saves on wheel weight costs .
Just start googling 4runner shimmy wobble vibration and Road Force balance. This is a 'known' issue unknown by most, including most dealer service departments. Hunter website has a shop locator top middle of page. The combination of a Road Force balance plus the Straight Track process (where the machine compares all 4 tires and determines on which corner of the truck each wheel should go) absolutely solved my vibration and tracking issues.
I had a vibration which felt like an out of balance front tire. I knew it could not be an out of balance tire issue because they had been balanced twice in the past year. This was wrong. It was exactly what it seemed to be, an out of balance issue. I did Google google google = T4R posts about this issue = lug centric vs hub centric = Hunter Road Force gsp9700 tire balance machine. No more shimmy wobble felt through the steering wheel at various speeds. That combined with the Straight Track process made an astonishing difference. Astonishing because the problem is fixed. I drive along with a vibration free steering wheel and the truck tracks as straight as straight can be. It is joyous thing.
I replaced my radiator fan because it was warped after 180,000 miles and caused a noticeable vibration.
I will replace my transmission mount when the part arrives next week because my sagging transmission = misaligned drive shaft = mechanical roughness/vibration @ 2300-3000 rpm. I should be as smooth as smooth can be with new transmission mount. I'll let you know.
3 vibration sources: 1) out of balance tires, resolved. 2) warped radiator fan, resolved. 3) sagging transmission/driveshaft, to be fixed next week.
I went to a Les Schwab here in Denver I located via the Hunter website, which you may find helpful in the future.
(oops, didn't read entire thread. was replying to your initial post, thus the long thing about my lug centric journey. My other two fixes may be relevant to the tiny vibration you still feel).

Did you just word-vomit?
 
Bought my 2001 a couple months ago, went for a test drive before the purchase and had a vibration in the steering wheel and front end past 60, figured it was the nearly bald and going flat tire so I bought the truck anyway.

Got myself a new set of freshly balanced Duratracs....same issue

Got myself a lifetime alignment from Firestone....same issue

Replaced my steering rack bushings with poly....same issue

Replace front and rear sway bar bushings with poly....same issue

So, here is the problem, I can accelerate onto the interstate up to 70mph and have the ride be smooth as silk, then after driving for a few minutes (slowing down, speeding up, lane changes....that sort of thing) I get a nasty vibration in the steering wheel that can be felt though the whole truck as well.

Problem goes away under 60, the weird part is it comes and goes on it's own accord.

So......suggestions?

I'm fighting with this exact same issue and have been for quite some time. I have a 2001 Limited 4WD with 116K. I have had the tires and wheels balanced many many times. They are Michelin LTX M/S on TRD Ivan Stewart wheels.

Today I took it to a Discount Tire with the Hunter GSP9700 and told my sob story to the tech. He assured me that he'd have his best guy balance the wheels and tires on the Hunter with the Haweka adapter (lug) plate. Picked it up, took it for a spin, exact same problem...possibly worse as now I can feel it start in the 50's instead of mid to late 60s. I'm so frustrated I don't know where to go from here.

My Dad thinks it has to be a moving part. He believes the rotors may be out of balance. They're a set of Brembo rotors I bought several years ago and I'm not convinced they're the issue.

I just purchased four new Bilstein HD shocks and the steering rack bushing kit from Toytec and I'll try that. Anyone have any other suggestions?

I've considered new CV Axle assemblies. Contacted Toyota dealer in my area and they informed me that the part number for the CV Axle assembly is 434303503084 and the cost was $155 each. I can find aftermarket ones available from many retailers for anywhere between $60 - $130.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread but hoping others might be able to offer some more advice.

Thanks!

ETA: Forgot to mention that my mechanic also swapped all four tires and wheels from my Mom's 4Runner onto my truck as a test and it made no difference at all so I think it's got to be something other than the tires and wheels causing my issue.
 
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Hey, I've been reading this thread with great anticipation. I have a 2002 sport 4wd, and just finished installing the toytec ultimate lift (2"). And guess what, now a vibration (starting around 54mph). I needed tires, so I went to discount tire and after new Michelin LTX M/S's and road force balancing, no change in the vibration. I appreciate all the information offered and starting next week I'm going through the whole front end check list. The lift looks great, the truck rides better, but the vibration is a bit annoying to say the least. Thanks for all the information, and I will keep you posted on my attempts to fix this vibration.
 
Did you just word-vomit?
I know. Point taken.
I left all of it posted figuring someone might benefit from the process I've recently gone trough to diagnose and fix what turned out to be multiple shimmy/wobble/vibrations from multiple sources. I tend towards full disclosure and explication because it ultimately produces the best result. I want others to understand the progression which lead me to the resolution. Simply being told "this worked for me" is less helpful than being guided down the road that leads to the solution, at least for me.
 
I'm fighting with this exact same issue and have been for quite some time. I have a 2001 Limited 4WD with 116K. I have had the tires and wheels balanced many many times. They are Michelin LTX M/S on TRD Ivan Stewart wheels.

Today I took it to a Discount Tire with the Hunter GSP9700 and told my sob story to the tech. He assured me that he'd have his best guy balance the wheels and tires on the Hunter with the Haweka adapter (lug) plate. Picked it up, took it for a spin, exact same problem...possibly worse as now I can feel it start in the 50's instead of mid to late 60s. I'm so frustrated I don't know where to go from here.

My Dad thinks it has to be a moving part. He believes the rotors may be out of balance. They're a set of Brembo rotors I bought several years ago and I'm not convinced they're the issue.

I just purchased four new Bilstein HD shocks and the steering rack bushing kit from Toytec and I'll try that. Anyone have any other suggestions?

I've considered new CV Axle assemblies. Contacted Toyota dealer in my area and they informed me that the part number for the CV Axle assembly is 434303503084 and the cost was $155 each. I can find aftermarket ones available from many retailers for anywhere between $60 - $130.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread but hoping others might be able to offer some more advice.

Thanks!

ETA: Forgot to mention that my mechanic also swapped all four tires and wheels from my Mom's 4Runner onto my truck as a test and it made no difference at all so I think it's got to be something other than the tires and wheels causing my issue.

Is it speed or rpm related, i.e. does the symptom exist at 60mph whether you are in 3rd gear at higher rpms or 4th gear at lower rpms? If rpm dependent it could be engine or driveshaft. If speed dependent could be chassis/suspension/steering.
if your rotors are warped it will be obvious when you brake.
If it is coming through the steering wheel it is one of the components between the steering wheel and the wheels.
If you feel it through your seat/butt it may be coming from underneath you or from the back.
Is it a high frequency or low frequency vibration?
Jack up the front, get under your truck and start grabbing things like the tie rods, upper control arms, coils, shocks, whatever, and yank them back and forth looking for looseness. bang on the skid plates. remove them and start grabbing and pushing stuff like cross beams, axles, front driveshaft. Grab the tires at 3 and 9 o'clock position and look for movement, could be tie rods. (make sure steering wheel is locked, held fast so it isn't the source of any movement). Grab and shake at 6 and 12 position, could be ball joints. Do the same underneath the whole truck. Obviously dont do this when muffler etc hot.
Is your transmission mount shot and tranny sagging? U joints loose? Get under there and start yanking on stuff to see what gives.
You can eliminate lots of possibilities by doing this instead of playing replace-a-part-roulette.
 
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Highway Speed shimmy

Me too! I have enjoyed this thread, although I was anxiously awaiting the "silver bullet" answer (like it exists, I know). I have the same issue on my 2000 SR5. Here's my details if it helps the experts:

1. The tires have about 5k left in them and are high quality Michelin, but they do show a bit of uneven patterned cupping on the interior edges which would normally expose the issue of not rotating and balancing often enough, which isn't the case.

2. The shimmy is between 60 and 72 mph and dissipates above 70.

3. The shake seems to be in the steering only.

4. The local experts I've had give it an exam state that the front shocks and wheel bearings are the combined culprit.

But I'm wanting a better opinion prior to going the change oout parts route...

Thanks!!
 
Is it speed or rpm related, i.e. does the symptom exist at 60mph whether you are in 3rd gear at higher rpms or 4th gear at lower rpms? If rpm dependent it could be engine or driveshaft. If speed dependent could be chassis/suspension/steering.
if your rotors are warped it will be obvious when you brake.
If it is coming through the steering wheel it is one of the components between the steering wheel and the wheels.
If you feel it through your seat/butt it may be coming from underneath you or from the back.
Is it a high frequency or low frequency vibration?
Jack up the front, get under your truck and start grabbing things like the tie rods, upper control arms, coils, shocks, whatever, and yank them back and forth looking for looseness. bang on the skid plates. remove them and start grabbing and pushing stuff like cross beams, axles, front driveshaft. Grab the tires at 3 and 9 o'clock position and look for movement, could be tie rods. (make sure steering wheel is locked, held fast so it isn't the source of any movement). Grab and shake at 6 and 12 position, could be ball joints. Do the same underneath the whole truck. Obviously dont do this when muffler etc hot.
Is your transmission mount shot and tranny sagging? U joints loose? Get under there and start yanking on stuff to see what gives.
You can eliminate lots of possibilities by doing this instead of playing replace-a-part-roulette.

Thanks for the reply. It's speed related, not RPM related from my experience. As far as the rotors, I'm talking about out of balance, not warped. The rotors are definitely not warped because when I apply the brakes, I experience no pulsing or other characteristics of warping. I know what that feels like because my previous set of rotors was warped.

The problem for me manifests itself both through the steering wheel AND the entire front end of the vehicle regardless of where the wheels and tires are rotated to. I'm not sure how to answer your high/low frequency question...sorry.

Thanks for the advice regarding the grab and shake routine. I'm set to take the truck to my mechanic the second weekend in July so I'll see if he can help me troubleshoot. I still plan to replace the shocks and steering rack bushings. We'll see what else I can find.
 
I wanted to follow-up on my previous post.

Today I had the steering rack bushings and Bilstein HD shocks/struts installed. Both made a noticeable difference in the ride and steering quality (read improvement) but neither resolved the high-speed vibration issue. I had asked the mechanic to check and test all of the bits in and around the front wheels and suspension area. He told me that everything looks very solid so I'm back to the drawing board.

On the way back from the mechanic, I was on a long stretch of freeway and set the cruise to 73mph. I was able to observe the problem a little closer. I determined that the vibration would build and last for about 7/10ths of a mile then disappear for a full mile before returning again for 7/10ths. As long as I was driving in a straight line, it was pretty consistent. When turning on a curve in the freeway, I can drive into and out of the vibration multiple times while maintaining the same speed and it comes and goes more quickly.

Tomorrow, my Dad and I are going to swap my wheels and tires with the ones from his Taco and see if the issue persists on his truck and if it disappears on mine. That should hopefully tell us whether the problem is in the wheels and tires or whether we should be looking elsewhere.

This is so darned frustrating. If anyone has any additional tips, I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 
Just a quick reminder that it is possible, with an incompetent operator, to get a bad balance job from the sophisticated Hunter wheel balance machines....ask me how I know...
 
Just a quick reminder that it is possible, with an incompetent operator, to get a bad balance job from the sophisticated Hunter wheel balance machines....ask me how I know...

Thanks for that. The guy at Discount Tire assured me he had his best guy balance the wheels and tires on the Hunter GSP9700 with lug-centric plate. Hopefully that's true...
 
I am no expert and I am sure this hasnt been overlooked...but make sure each lug nut is torqued to the right spec. This can contribute to the problem if they are not properly torqued.
 
I am no expert and I am sure this hasnt been overlooked...but make sure each lug nut is torqued to the right spec. This can contribute to the problem if they are not properly torqued.

Thanks again. Here's the latest.

Today, my Dad and I swapped my wheels and tires onto his '99 Tacoma and went for a drive and they exhibited the exact same vibration issue so I'm certain it's a balance issue. We couldn't swap his wheels and tires onto my 4Runner because they're 15's and don't fit.

Since I've read many posts indicating that the TRD Ivan Stewart wheels are notoriously difficult to balance, I think I'm done with these things. At this point, I think I'm going to look for another set of wheels and move on.

Any recommendations on a nice-looking set of wheels? I'm inclined to stick with 16x8 but might go plus one with a new set of tires.
 
I have read half of this thread. Most people either have a lift or high miles. Worn out saggy rear. Does anybody stop and think to check pinion angles? I had a severe vibration after my lift. Rebalanced my drive shaft and it was gone for 2 days untill i weny wheeling. Now i already know i have a bunch of front end parts that need to be addressed. There is a big difference in what can cause a "wobble" versus a "vibration"

I will be changing out front end components as i can feel my wobble and play at the inner tie rods when its jacked up. But the vibration seems to be drive train related.
 
Have you tried balancing beads?

Serious I hear they are legit solution for balance issue and usually cheap.

I haven't even heard of this previously. I'll do some research but at this point, I'm ready to say goodbye to these wheels and move on.
 
If anyone wants to try and switching their CV axles autozone is having a 20% off online orders. NEW cv axles, not the remanufactured for $120.

I too suffer from shaking at exactly 70mph. Looking for help, about to go to discount next week and have them use the hunter machine and the haweka plate.

gonna slide under the truck this weekend and shake everything and see if anything is loose.
 
This is exactly what my truck does. Good thread !


I wanted to follow-up on my previous post.

Today I had the steering rack bushings and Bilstein HD shocks/struts installed. Both made a noticeable difference in the ride and steering quality (read improvement) but neither resolved the high-speed vibration issue. I had asked the mechanic to check and test all of the bits in and around the front wheels and suspension area. He told me that everything looks very solid so I'm back to the drawing board.

On the way back from the mechanic, I was on a long stretch of freeway and set the cruise to 73mph. I was able to observe the problem a little closer. I determined that the vibration would build and last for about 7/10ths of a mile then disappear for a full mile before returning again for 7/10ths. As long as I was driving in a straight line, it was pretty consistent. When turning on a curve in the freeway, I can drive into and out of the vibration multiple times while maintaining the same speed and it comes and goes more quickly.

Tomorrow, my Dad and I are going to swap my wheels and tires with the ones from his Taco and see if the issue persists on his truck and if it disappears on mine. That should hopefully tell us whether the problem is in the wheels and tires or whether we should be looking elsewhere.

This is so darned frustrating. If anyone has any additional tips, I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 

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