I got the wobbles

I am no expert and I am sure this hasnt been overlooked...but make sure each lug nut is torqued to the right spec. This can contribute to the problem if they are not properly torqued.

BINGO! I think this may be largely responsible for the issues I've been experiencing and I think the reason for this is that these particular wheels are lug-centric. Here's some very interesting info I located on tirerack.com regarding lug-centric wheels.

What are lug centric wheels?

Many wheels are lug centric and do not require the use of a centering ring. They are typically found on truck and SUV fitments. On these applications, the center bore of the wheel is larger than the vehicle hub diameter to allow for various hub/axle configurations that may have been an option from the factory. These wheels need to be installed with the wheel/tire assembly off the ground when the lug hardware is torqued. This allows the lugs to properly center the wheel and secure it on the mounting surface of the hub.

As I mentioned previously, last weekend, my Dad and I swapped my wheels and tires onto his Tacoma and experienced the same vibration with the same behavior. When we reinstalled them on my 4Runner (in the same locations they came off in the first place) I decided to torque the lugs to the recommended 81 ft•lb and I believe this has made a significant difference. I still experience a little vibration except now it's in the steering wheel at certain times and does not shake the entire front end of the truck. I can think of nothing else that was changed during our test last weekend so I'm going to say this may be the solution for some.

For future reference, here are instructions for balancing the TRD Ivan Stewart Signature Edition Wheels.

BALANCING PROCEDURE:

The wheel/tire assembly may be balanced on any dynamic balancing machine that locates the wheel on the machine shaft by the use of tapered collars. The late model Hunter brand machine is an example. Before balancing wheel/tire assemblies verify balance machine is in calibration. The cone used for this evaluation was a #38 Hunter.

Remove TRD center cap from wheel. Due to the limited front brake caliper to wheel clearance, the wheel/tire assembly must be balanced on the inside plane using clip-on weights on the inside edge of the wheel. Adhesive weights may be used to balance the outside plane by hiding the weights behind any one of the five spokes. The weights should be mounted on the inner diameter of the wheel directly behind the spokes. Install wheel on balancer with wheel mounting face contacting the backing plate of the balancing machine. Use appropriate tapered cone on front side of wheel to center wheel on balancing machine shaft. Spin wheel assembly and install weights as indicated. Re-spin wheel again to verify readings are zero or within .25 grams. If readings exceed .25 grams rebalance and repeat procedure. Due to the size and weight of off-road type tires one last check will be necessary. Rotate wheel assembly 90 degrees on shaft and re-spin to verify repeatability of balance. If readings do not exceed .25 grams, wheels are OK to install. If readings exceed .25 grams repeat procedure. The balance specifications are as follows:

· Maximum 120 grams of weight per wheel weight plane
· Maximum 240 grams of weight per tire/wheel assembly
· Maximum final imbalance of 8 grams per weight plane

If more than 120 grams per weight plane or 240 grams total weight are needed, the tire must be dismounted from the wheel and rotated so the heavy area of the tire is matched up with the light area of the wheel.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE:

Install the Tacoma tire and wheel assembly onto the wheel studs. Use the TRD provided “Spline Drive” socket to hand start all five lug nuts. Use the McGard lock key provided to hand start the wheel lock. Use a torque wrench or “torque stick” to tighten the lug nuts to the following torque: 110 N•m (1,150 kgf•cm, 81 ft•lbf). Finally, tighten the lock to the same torque specification.

CAUTION: Do not use a standard impact gun to tighten the lug nuts or lock. If an impact gun is used, it may be impossible to remove the lug nuts or lock without damaging or destroying the wheel
 
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I have been working on my wobble issue as well and made several "tests". First, same issue, shimmy in steering wheel between 62-75ish. It appears semi-sporadic in that on certain types of road or certain times it gets better and worse.

It is a tire balance issue, at least on my truck. I have swapped the rims and tires out and the problem follows the rims/tires onto another vehicle, and mine is ok when I put my buds on mine.

I have used all the proper torque for lug nuts, adaptor plate, and machine. My issue is due to a beat set of tires. Note, the tires look mint, have 80-90% tread left and appear to be in great shape, but they are not.

The passenger front is chafed and the drivers front also has slight chafing. When I swap them to the rear, the problem leaves the steering wheel and goes slightly into the seat- as it should.

We dismounted the wheels (fronts), and re-mounted and balanced them inside-out with white letters showing, and the problem is solved. Its been a week and the truck is smooth at all speeds.

I hope this helps. My tire guy suggested it and I had my doubts, but shirt of replacing the defective tires, this worked.
 
Is it speed or rpm related, i.e. does the symptom exist at 60mph whether you are in 3rd gear at higher rpms or 4th gear at lower rpms? If rpm dependent it could be engine or driveshaft. If speed dependent could be chassis/suspension/steering.
if your rotors are warped it will be obvious when you brake.
If it is coming through the steering wheel it is one of the components between the steering wheel and the wheels.
If you feel it through your seat/butt it may be coming from underneath you or from the back.
Is it a high frequency or low frequency vibration?
Jack up the front, get under your truck and start grabbing things like the tie rods, upper control arms, coils, shocks, whatever, and yank them back and forth looking for looseness. bang on the skid plates. remove them and start grabbing and pushing stuff like cross beams, axles, front driveshaft. Grab the tires at 3 and 9 o'clock position and look for movement, could be tie rods. (make sure steering wheel is locked, held fast so it isn't the source of any movement). Grab and shake at 6 and 12 position, could be ball joints. Do the same underneath the whole truck. Obviously dont do this when muffler etc hot.
Is your transmission mount shot and tranny sagging? U joints loose? Get under there and start yanking on stuff to see what gives.
You can eliminate lots of possibilities by doing this instead of playing replace-a-part-roulette.

Good info to narrow it down. What if the vibration in my wheels is RPM related BUT vibration is only in the steering wheel? Car still rides smooth its just the steering wheel that has feedback.
 
Good info to narrow it down. What if the vibration in my wheels is RPM related BUT vibration is only in the steering wheel? Car still rides smooth its just the steering wheel that has feedback.
<a href="http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/95311-steering-wheel-shimmy.html#post839715" title="Link to this Post">permalink</a>
Good info to narrow it down. What if the vibration in my wheels is RPM related BUT vibration is only in the steering wheel? Car still rides smooth its just the steering wheel that has feedback.
vehicle issues are structural, mechanical, or electrical. i aint no mechanic, this is the system I use to narrow it down. Structural is something bent (like an axle or frame or driveshaft or lower control arm or bent rim or warped rotor), misaligned (like a driveshaft or the caster-camber-toe or front axel after a collision), or broken (like a rusted end link which finally breaks in two or a busted motor or transmission mount). Mechanical is moving parts, all the kinetic stuff (like u-joints and camshafts and cv joints and fan clutches and water pumps and innards of an automatic transmission and pistons and brakes and bearings, stuff that moves and breaks and wears out). Electrical is electrical (fuses and wires and relays and switches and computer boards etc).
What structural deficit could lead to this vibration?
What mechanical failing could lead to this vibration?
What electrical failure could cause this vibration?
Could it be some combination of these?
"vibration in my wheels is RPM related BUT vibration is only in the steering wheel? Car still rides smooth its just the steering wheel that has feedback."
RPM is how many revolutions the engine,crankshaft and transmission/gears are turning and is independent of speed. These components can turn at 3000 RPMs at a variety of speeds.The driveshaft and axle RPMs directly correlate to MPH/wheel speed and are not RPM dependent.
Wheel, rotor, pads, bearing, axle, cv joint, front differential, front drive shaft, transfer case, rear driveshaft, u joints, slip yokes. I don't think any of these are RPM dependent.
So what connects the steering wheel to these RPM components? Steering wheel, slip joint, steering rack, inner and outer tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, control arms are not involved in the RPM thing. So the vibration is being caused by other components which lead to the wheel OR the vibration originates from a component that is close to steering components or from a component failure which is allowing direct (metal to metal) contact by two parts that would normally not touch, i.e, worn motor mount which no longer isolates engine movement/vibration from rest of vehicle, so the vibration is transmitted through the steering system due to proximity. Just because you feel it through the steering wheel does not mean it is coming from the steering or suspension system. I mean, it is RPM dependent and therefore HAS to originate from the engine/transmission, right?
"drivie" speaks about "turning on a curve in the freeway, I can drive into and out of the vibration multiple times while maintaining the same speed and it comes and goes more quickly." perhaps the engine shifts a bit to the side and is held fast by the centrifugal force generated in the turn. As he "drives into and out of the turn" the engine is being held fast then not, held fast then not, etc. When driving straight it is loose and and saggy and moving around without the benefit of good motor mounts. The bad mount allows it to move move side to side and front to back and up and down, and the degraded rubber no longer buffers the rest of the truck from the engine. Motor mounts can fail in different ways so you may not have the same result if you try driving "into and out of the vibration".
If you can replicate the vibration while truck is stationary see if there is some way to secure the engine so it doesn't wobble so much. Maybe a long pry bar and a couple of short 2x4s against which to lever so you don't dent the engine compartment or damage the engine. Stick that pry bar in there, apply force, and see if the vibration goes away or changes intensity.
Have you had a friend run the RPMs up while you look and touch and listen to the engine (be SO CAREFUL to not get whacked by the FAN BLADE. It will CHOP off your finger or put a deep nasty ER-visit-gash in your arm. It is so easy to forgot for a few seconds and suddenly, whack! ouch! ick! I feel woozy). Get under the truck while your bud does this. Don't burn your face or hands on the hot hot muffler and catalytic converter. Listen really carefully for a long time. Keep looking looking looking and listening. You should be able to localize it. If you cannot replicate the vibration with the vehicle standing still you can focus on the drivetrain, all the stuff that is driven by the engine and changes RPMs as the engine does. Perhaps it is coming to you through the steering wheel because that is your most direct tactile connection to the goings on up front.
RPM = frequency. Maybe a failed motor mount manifests its damage within a certain frequency range. These are rubber components which absord an enormous amount of energy and eventually fail. Even if they don't actually tear/split the rubber degrades and compresses, allowing large components like engines and transmissions to sag and shift. And a degraded mount would allow greater movement of the engine/tranny/etc/whichever than it is designed to accommodate. If the things that hold a thing in place lose their structural integrity, then the thing being held will no longer be where it is supposed to be.
1) Structural. Mechanical. Electrical.
2) friend run truck in RPM zone while you look and listen.
3) pry bar to secure engine
4) motor/tranny mount.
Or not, I am just speculating. This is the thought process I go through when trying to figure out what the f*** is wrong with my f****** truck...
 
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