I hate alignment shops

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

They centered the rack perfect. You can make adjustments for the steering wheel at the steering shaft where it connects to the steering rack without changing anything on the alignment. Mine was not centered when I installed my rack (my fault). So I could feel the clock spring barely start to bind when I fully turned right.

Now the rack is centered and I just need to adjust maybe one to two teeth over at the steering rack. Not to hard. Just have top pop my body lift steering spacer, pop off the collar at the steering rack and move it over a tooth or two.

Anyways Im going to find another shop that like maybe the Rex Tire mentioned above. I have play in my UBJ and in process of getting it replaced under warranty but Im not crossing my fingers. After I replace that I will bring it to Rex Tire and see if they can do a better job.

I can deal with the 1/4" off steering wheel as long as everything else is good. Would you bring it back to a place that has messed up like that again? NOT ME!! LOL.

You shouldn't have to disconnect anything on the steering shaft or steering gear.

The wheel is centered while doing the toe adjustment. The easiest part of the alignment. Several things have to be done to get it centered. First off the turnplates have to move easily. Secondly, you have to start the vehicle and go back and forth until you get it right in the center. You then put the steering wheel holder and the brake pedal depressor on to "lock" the wheels to the turnplates. The brake pedal depressor is often forgotten here. Here's the important part. Take note of each toe reading on the screen. Then adjust each side, one side at a time, until in spec. IF THE OTHER SIDE CHANGES YOU BUMP THAT SIDE BACK TO THE NOTED ORIGINAL READING UNTIL YOU GET THE SIDE YOUR ADJUSTING IN SPEC. The worst thing you can do is go back and forth between the two sides. Once one side is in spec, tighten the lock nut and repeat for the other side, making sure to, once again, bump the wheel back to spec. And when I say bumping the wheel, i mean hit the front of the tire if that side is toeing in and the back of the tire if it is toeing out. When, I've done toe this way, ALWAYS had a centered steering wheel.
Lastly, both Hunter and John Bean have very slick toe only programs to correct a crooked wheel EZ Toe or something like that. Both work almost the same and are very easy to do.

Glad you were able to get some satisfaction though.

 

[JayRolla]

Lower cam bolts are 96ft lbs. Sounds like they made the same mistake to you as me. Sometimes I think the tech is trying to tighten the rear cam bolts by the nut because the bolt face is covered by the steering rack, and if i remember correctly you have to tighten by the bolt head... the nut is part of the cam and will not tighten, just adjust.

Was this the brakes plus on powers and palmer park? If so there seems to be a pattern. Try Les Shwab on north powers, they did pretty good on mine and even took the time to read the SPC instructions, and even ask me as well.

Yes same brakes plus, they will never touch it again.

 

[JayRolla]

You shouldn't have to disconnect anything on the steering shaft or steering gear.

The wheel is centered while doing the toe adjustment. The easiest part of the alignment. Several things have to be done to get it centered. First off the turnplates have to move easily. Secondly, you have to start the vehicle and go back and forth until you get it right in the center. You then put the steering wheel holder and the brake pedal depressor on to "lock" the wheels to the turnplates. The brake pedal depressor is often forgotten here. Here's the important part. Take note of each toe reading on the screen. Then adjust each side, one side at a time, until in spec. IF THE OTHER SIDE CHANGES YOU BUMP THAT SIDE BACK TO THE NOTED ORIGINAL READING UNTIL YOU GET THE SIDE YOUR ADJUSTING IN SPEC. The worst thing you can do is go back and forth between the two sides. Once one side is in spec, tighten the lock nut and repeat for the other side, making sure to, once again, bump the wheel back to spec. And when I say bumping the wheel, i mean hit the front of the tire if that side is toeing in and the back of the tire if it is toeing out. When, I've done toe this way, ALWAYS had a centered steering wheel.
Lastly, both Hunter and John Bean have very slick toe only programs to correct a crooked wheel EZ Toe or something like that. Both work almost the same and are very easy to do.

Glad you were able to get some satisfaction though.

I dont need explaining how to do an alignment. I know how to do it and Im not letting them touch it again. I have already said the rack is not centered and they have it pretty close. They could have made it perfect but again I dont feel like missing more work and time to have a crap shop touch it again. I will get it done somewhere again when I replace this crap SPC ball joint that has play already.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I dont need explaining how to do an alignment. I know how to do it and Im not letting them touch it again. I have already said the rack is not centered and they have it pretty close. They could have made it perfect but again I dont feel like missing more work and time to have a crap shop touch it again. I will get it done somewhere again when I replace this crap SPC ball joint that has play already.

Um OK, I understand not wanting to take it back there. As I said I glad you got some satisfaction.

I wasn't necessarily explaining wheel alignment to you as to maybe another tech on here who wasn't doing toe right. I also felt like I had to let you know that you don't disconnect the steering gear or shaft to center the wheel. That is wrong. Also, the alignment will change again once that UBJ is replaced. Maybe should have replaced that first then took it back.
I used to train alignment techs for the same company Iballengineer works for so this is one area I have a lot of expertise in. Not trying to be a know it all just trying to help. Sorry if I offended you in any way.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Know a good shop near 32824?

I can ask! And I will!

:cheers:

 

[JayRolla]

Um OK, I understand not wanting to take it back there. As I said I glad you got some satisfaction.

I wasn't necessarily explaining wheel alignment to you as to maybe another tech on here who wasn't doing toe right. I also felt like I had to let you know that you don't disconnect the steering gear or shaft to center the wheel. That is wrong. Also, the alignment will change again once that UBJ is replaced. Maybe should have replaced that first then took it back.
I used to train alignment techs for the same company Iballengineer works for so this is one area I have a lot of expertise in. Not trying to be a know it all just trying to help. Sorry if I offended you in any way.

I understand. No problem at all. I just wanted them to get the thing inline because I needed this rig on the road. They originally told me they would do a free alignment if I took it back within a couple weeks after ball joint install. But now think I will find a better shop.

Only reason I mentioned lining up the steering wheel at the rack is becaue I knew the rack was not centered during install. I know its not the correct way when doing the alignment. I could actually feel the clock spring bind a little when fully turned right which dont happen anymore so thats a good thing.

 

[Bry838]

There's a little more involved than that, I over simplified.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Right....i was just more curious if you were gunna stack lifts or not to get those tires to fit better...

 

[JayRolla]

Cam bolts slipped again. Every bump and left side moves. Heard this could happen with aftermarket cam bolts and poly bushings. Getting little upset at truck. I might have brakes plus try again for free and over tq them myself. Hope I don't need to buy some Oem cam bolts.

 

[mauidiver]

Just had my 03 4Runner 2wheel drive that I installed 5100's and FJ coils, this is what the final numbers were. I'm learning this stuff so the numbers are just starting to make a little sense to me.

 

[Nervo19]

If you get the Firestone Lifetime alignment can you take it there every 6,000 miles and wait for it or do you have to make an appointment? I hate them but it seems like a good deal. They were always big on upselling things. Are there any coupons for the service?

 

[fourfive]

Cam bolts slipped again. Every bump and left side moves. Heard this could happen with aftermarket cam bolts and poly bushings. Getting little upset at truck. I might have brakes plus try again for free and over tq them myself. Hope I don't need to buy some Oem cam bolts.

If narrowing down between the aftermarket cam bolts or polymer bushings, I think it may be the aftermarket cam bolts because i have whiteline "elastomer" bushings and reused my factory cam bolts and my alignment has held up so far after about 5k. I also torqued my cam bolts to 96ft/lbs as soon as i got back home from the alignment shop. I can definitely sympathize with your frustration in regards to finding a competent alignment shop and tech.

 

[JayRolla]

If narrowing down between the aftermarket cam bolts or polymer bushings, I think it may be the aftermarket cam bolts because i have whiteline "elastomer" bushings and reused my factory cam bolts and my alignment has held up so far after about 5k. I also torqued my cam bolts to 96ft/lbs as soon as i got back home from the alignment shop. I can definitely sympathize with your frustration in regards to finding a competent alignment shop and tech.

Well I found the right rear cam bolt was still not torqued correctly. I know its hard to get a wrench and tq wrench in there with tires and scrap plate but man this is a shop and its doable. The tech looked like he was 90lbs in weight and barely 19 years of age.

I moved the cam where I thought it was, tires look good, steering back to where it was before it moved and it rides good. Torqued them all down again and pretty much jumped my front end off the ground during a test drive and nothing moved.

It seems the shop is just plain incompetent and since another member mentioned same issue at same shop it seems to be a trend. I will be taking it in on Sat. Asking for another alignment and my money back before I leave. I have lost at least $50 in tire wear by now and I deserve a free alignment. I will then TQ the bolts down in there parking lot in the most front spot possible. Bust out my jack and lift it up just to make it look good.

 

[kindred4x]

Well I found the right rear cam bolt was still not torqued correctly. I know its hard to get a wrench and tq wrench in there with tires and scrap plate but man this is a shop and its doable. The tech looked like he was 90lbs in weight and barely 19 years of age.

I moved the cam where I thought it was, tires look good, steering back to where it was before it moved and it rides good. Torqued them all down again and pretty much jumped my front end off the ground during a test drive and nothing moved.

It seems the shop is just plain incompetent and since another member mentioned same issue at same shop it seems to be a trend. I will be taking it in on Sat. Asking for another alignment and my money back before I leave. I have lost at least $50 in tire wear by now and I deserve a free alignment. I will then TQ the bolts down in there parking lot in the most front spot possible. Bust out my jack and lift it up just to make it look good.

Damn........ when you give them the *****ing they deserve use me as a example, that crappy shop has burned me twice and my brother once, and that's just with alignments! thank god we know how to repair vehicles because i wouldn't even trust them to change my air filter without screwing something up.

What really upsets me is that I drive by that pile of crap shop everyday and they are busy. Only if all the customers knew what really happened in those bays.....

 

[D Farms]

a few things,

if you have worn out suspension components you are wasting the technicians and your time. worn out components cause slop and make it impossible for a tech to give your truck a good alignment.

as far as modifications go you have to adjust them yourself, then have the shop tune it in with the oem adjusters. the techs are trained to use the oem adjusters and not to deal with the extra variables that the aftermarket parts offer. dont ask for something outside of the oem range of adjustment.

you also want to check that they actually did anything, on azbubs truck i looked and all they had done was adjusted tie rods.

if the tech tells you to adjust the spline on the rack, do it. simply adjusting the tie rods to correct for a large misalignment in the steering wheel is the shade tree mechanic way of doing it and is the cause of bumo steering, it messes up the geometry of the steering.

ask if you can watch them do it, so that if any issues come up they get dealt with and also to maks sure they are actually doing something.

 

[csp]

I'm late to this but will also recommend Rex Tire.

For whomever asked about High Country, they are good, but their specialty really is solid axle vehicles and they have a pretty long wait list currently for alignments (a friend just checked with them earlier this week).

I found a pretty competent alignment guy at Les Schwab in Parker of all places. I never thought a chain would have a good alignment guy or one that stuck around for long if he was good.

 

[JayRolla]

I'm late to this but will also recommend Rex Tire.

For whomever asked about High Country, they are good, but their specialty really is solid axle vehicles and they have a pretty long wait list currently for alignments (a friend just checked with them earlier this week).

I found a pretty competent alignment guy at Les Schwab in Parker of all places. I never thought a chain would have a good alignment guy or one that stuck around for long if he was good.

Once I get this ball joint replaced I'm going to rex. Little upset this spc ball joint has failed. It's maybe a few mm's of play bit will get worse fast I'm sure. Dude at work said he has used rex for years and great service.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

if the tech tells you to adjust the spline on the rack, do it. simply adjusting the tie rods to correct for a large misalignment in the steering wheel is the shade tree mechanic way of doing it and is the cause of bumo steering, it messes up the geometry of the steering.

I agree with this if the steering wheel is out of wack more than 90 degrees but then that means that either someone disconnected the spline previously and misaligned it or something is bent or broken.

 

[D Farms]

I agree with this if the steering wheel is out of wack more than 90 degrees but then that means that either someone disconnected the spline previously and misaligned it or something is bent or broken.

sometimes if the alignment isnt equal on both sides, due to worn out components this can happen as well.

 

[JayRolla]

sometimes if the alignment isnt equal on both sides, due to worn out components this can happen as well.

I already have stated I installed the rack and it was not aligned. First shop told me years ago and maxed the tie rods out to compensate. I have already realigned the shaft at the rack since this shop centered the rack for me. The play in my UBJ is not much at all. It moves maybe a few MM's with a crow bar and even Brakes plus agreed they could align it no problem and said I could come back for a free alignment after I replaced the ball joint since its a part I have to order and wait for. Everything sounded good and dandy till this happened. Two times they did not TQ all the bolts.

 

[D Farms]

I already have stated I installed the rack and it was not aligned. First shop told me years ago and maxed the tie rods out to compensate. I have already realigned the shaft at the rack since this shop centered the rack for me. The play in my UBJ is not much at all. It moves maybe a few MM's with a crow bar and even Brakes plus agreed they could align it no problem and said I could come back for a free alignment after I replaced the ball joint since its a part I have to order and wait for. Everything sounded good and dandy till this happened. Two times they did not TQ all the bolts.

Go in there while they do it and make them get the torque wrench out, tell them the torque specs.