I hate alignment shops

Nice. Thanks for the detailed report!

Did you guys ever get around to trying the E setting with maxed out LCAs? I'm currently on the D setting with 2.1* caster, but 3.5* sounds about perfect and I'd like to get there if I can. I've done a fair amount of trimming/hammering so I'm not super worried about clearance - I can always trim more.

Im buying an adjustable panhard bar before I take it back. Im at 4.2* and it still rubs when backing out of driveway. I have had it pushed to 5* awhile back and it never rubbed on the street but this was all on the A setting for max caster. I took her on the trails and she did great. Didnt rub that much unless fully stuffed and have to turn.

Im thinking of marking the cam bolts and UBJ so I can try the E setting before I bring it in and see how it does. If not I will put it back to the A setting and bring it in for a final alignment and get at least 5* caster. I ran pretty good like that before.
 
I just did my LR UCAs over the weekend and I be got to take it in for an alignment so I'm about to join the club. I got my torque wrench and socket for the BJ nut on the back seat so I can align it myself when the tech looks at the instructions like they are in Greek.

So close to +5* caster is best huh? Which way to push the LCA all the way fwd?
 
I just did my LR UCAs over the weekend and I be got to take it in for an alignment so I'm about to join the club. I got my torque wrench and socket for the BJ nut on the back seat so I can align it myself when the tech looks at the instructions like they are in Greek.

So close to +5* caster is best huh? Which way to push the LCA all the way fwd?

To get maximum caster run the ubj on the a setting. This will give most caster. Imo I would fine tune at your house. Get out where it doesn't rub and close as possible. Have them just pull it all into spec. Maxing lca and running D or E might work better. I've yet to test this theory. Found tacoma guys having success running e.
 
AGAIN I HATE ALIGNMENT SHOPS!!!!!

So brought it back in to Rex after getting adjustable trac bar installed and flipped cam bolts. They aligned it up. Only pushed my caster to 4* but I can live with that.

Drove perfect till about half way to work. I had marked the cam bolts when I left to make sure they dont move. My steering wheel moved again so I jump out and find NONE of the cam bolts moved.

I then go to look at my SPC UCA ball joint bolts and see one of them have slipped. So now they got the cam bolts good but now the UBJ bolt has moved. Very upset. I should have TQ'ed that bolt also my self. So now I got to get it back in and do another alignment and tq everything myself in there parking lot.
 
I am planning on taking my 4runner to Japanese Auto Service, Wheat Ridge for alignment as I recently changed inner and outer tie rods. I have a 3" Toytec suspension kit with OEM UCA that I have been running since 2014. When I first installed my lift kit, I took it to Brake Plus in Stapleton and they did a good job w/ alignment.

Denver peeps -anyone used Japanese Auto Service for alignment? Any feedback will be much appreciated.
 
Saw this old thread get bumped up, thought that it would make for a good read for myself. I'm headed back to firestone for a 3rd time tomorrow, the 'tards at this store can't even get an alignment right on a stock suspension, I'd never take anything to them with a modified suspension. I just got the good ole 'set-the-toe-and-let-it-go' routine from these ass clowns. The 2nd time I took it back, I was told that my subframe is misaligned and that I have to go to a body shop to get the alignment done. Seriously, this is what I was told.

Steering wheel was dead nuts on before I replaced the LBJ's and OTRE's 3 days ago. Now all of a sudden my steering wheel points to 11 o'clock and my subframe is bent? :censored:
I wonder what tomorrows excuse will be...
 
Saw this old thread get bumped up, thought that it would make for a good read for myself. I'm headed back to firestone for a 3rd time tomorrow, the 'tards at this store can't even get an alignment right on a stock suspension, I'd never take anything to them with a modified suspension. I just got the good ole 'set-the-toe-and-let-it-go' routine from these ass clowns. The 2nd time I took it back, I was told that my subframe is misaligned and that I have to go to a body shop to get the alignment done. Seriously, this is what I was told.

Steering wheel was dead nuts on before I replaced the LBJ's and OTRE's 3 days ago. Now all of a sudden my steering wheel points to 11 o'clock and my subframe is bent? :censored:
I wonder what tomorrows excuse will be...

Subframe?? I'm sure you know they were BSing you. I would have asked them to put the truck on the rack and show me this "subframe" and then proceeded to school some techs on what a subframe is. Then I would have gotten my money back and went down the road.

Sounds like your steering wheel is just a bit crooked which happens a lot when toe is improperly set, especially if caster and or camber were off when they "set the toe and let it go. It's a super easy fix. Would love to see your alignment printout. Oh wait, I'll bet the printer ran out of ink. Gee never heard that before either :mad2:

More amateur hour at our local alignment shops. If I had a dime for every post like this.....
 
The gmc Safari van I just bought has a subframe. That’s some lame excuse from a tech/service writer trying to get you out of the door. There’s only 2 shops in the Twin Cities that I’ll recommend and that I take my vehicles too. Richfield Wheel Alignment(the guy is old school and has an old school machine). And Twin City Tire in Bloomington. They do it right and do it fast. The tech there is amazing and drives a nice lifted truck so he knows what’s up.
 
Oh, I knew that he was full of sh*t, and I told him so. This ass clown wasn't worth my time so I left and contacted customer service. I have an appointment tomorrow at a different location. If I get jerked around tomorrow, I'll get VISA involved and have the charges reversed. This is the beauty of using your CC for things like this. There is a 4x4/custom shop that isn't local to me, but his guy does fantastic work and they warranty it for a year. I's make the trip there in a heart beat. They're just booked for appointments for the next 3 months so the only other choice was this.
 
Last update- I spent 2 hrs at the other firestone location this morning. They claim that they fixed it but the reason that my truck pulls to the left is because of the worn out original shocks. I calmly inform them that the front shocks are 3 year old KYB Monomax ( true story ). I got a copy of the print out to compare to the one from on Tuesday. On the way home, I can say that the steering wheel is now more centered and it doesn't drift left when I let go of the wheel on the beltway.

The measurements from the 'after' screen shot on Tuesday should darn near be a perfect match for the 'before' readings from this morning, they weren't. I plan on calling the first store tomorrow, just to let them know one more time how much I think that they're full of sh*t.
 
Chets in Albuquerque is awesome! They were up front and honest about their price $79 or $99 depending on stock or lifted and gave me an evaluation of my front end steering components (cleanest 4Runner they have ever seen).

When I originally called to get alignment right after lift they recommended I drive it 200 to 500 miles then get tires in the morning and alignment that afternoon.

I needed all three and knew the sequence to do things in. It was nice dealing with an honest shop.
 
Here is my alignment specs with a 3" Toytec lift and stock UCA. Caster is maxed out with the stock UCAs and WAY off as seen below. Looks like I know what I'll be purchasing soon...
 

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Here is my alignment specs with a 3" Toytec lift and stock UCA. Caster is maxed out with the stock UCAs and WAY off as seen below. Looks like I know what I'll be purchasing soon...

Yes, I had 1.7 degrees caster and my steering would wander a lot, especially if the road was in less than good condition. I have 3 degrees now and the truck feels much more stable.

One other thing. You have a degree of cross camber (difference in camber from one side to the other) With all other thing being equal, you should be pulling to the right. If anything you would want to have more positive camber (by only .5 degrees) on the left to compensate for road crown, although most seasoned alignment techs would prefer to make the caster a little bit more negative on the left side to compensate for road crown as caster is "more" of a tire wearing angle than caster.
 
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Well I'm back at the alignment shop having them redo my truck. Ugh

As has been stated, it all comes down to the technician doing the job.

My tire shop (because they sold me lifetime alignment) has tried twice now.

Attempt 1
da1f50054c1c316a3f782ff574394090.jpg

I took it back in because the driver side front tire was leaning inward at the top.

Attempt 2
14d51f2924876fb3501a40bbea8d2a56.jpg


I had to "help" the poor kid doing the work, and as I got a few blocks away I realized my steering wheel was no longer aligned; I need to turn the wheel to the left to go straight. Might just fix that myself or try another one of their shops, but it kills 1-2 hours waiting.
 
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Yes, I had 1.7 degrees caster and my steering would wander a lot, especially if the road was in less than good condition. I have 3 degrees now and the truck feels much more stable.

One other thing. You have a degree of cross camber (difference in camber from one side to the other) With all other thing being equal, you should be pulling to the right. If anything you would want to have more positive camber (by only .5 degrees) on the left to compensate for road crown, although most seasoned alignment techs would prefer to make the caster a little bit more negative on the left side to compensate for road crown as caster is "more" of a tire wearing angle than caster.

Well my right side has 1.3 or caster while left has 1.2 which is probably why I don’t pull at all. All of my other angles seem to be fine, it’s just my overall handling sucks due to the incredibly low caster angles I have.
 

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