I hate to ask but NO start after knock sensors.

sleepydad

Senior Member
I replaced the Knock sensors/harness

I also replaced a bunch of other things with the water hoses and vacuum lines.

new high pressure fuel line, new low pressure return line. new crush washers for that and new o-ring on fuel pressure regulator. all new injector o-rings and mounting grommets, I dipped them in gas while I installed them and was very careful to keep all that fuel stuff clean and sealed up.

new gaskets feldpro set.

I also grabbed a cam position sensor because mine had a fraying wire. I did not test resistance but I'm about to... this is all I can think at this point.

it has good spark and the plugs are wet, I also disconnected the return line and it's getting fuel.

the coils/wires are routed correctly I tipple checked it, these are new from last summer when I did valve cover gaskets. I have not tested resistance yet... but since the coil packs and wires are less than 5K miles old I have a hard time thinking they are bad, it has great looking spark.

the engine was running fine before I ripped into it so I can't really think what I bone headed.

it will fire up for a couple of seconds but then dies, like it wants to run but something is keeping her down.

I have tipple checked everything and I guess I need to start testing resistance on everything... ughh.

any suggestions?

this is a pretty good list of everything I replaced, yes it's a lot of stuff

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247329-2000-limited-sleepydad-build-5.html#post2966183
 
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Do you have TechStream?

no I just have a basic ODBII interface blue tooth thing and torque pro... no error codes and it returns real-time info for ECT and trans temp... but no codes whatsoever.

I think I'm going to start unplugging sensors to see if I can get codes.
 
Do you have TechStream?

ha if I unplug coil pack 1 it kind of runs... like it's running on 4 of the 6

plug 1 back in and I get some nasty 5vzfe sneezy.

well... dam it.

edit:

so yea I swapped the coil packs 1 n 2 connectors... nice. I knew it was a knuckle head thing. whew. back on the road again. :)
 
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I’d bet on the cam position sensor. Once the ecu loses track of where the cam is it shuts ignition down. There’s a short window that it will run without sync but it’s not long.
 
gr
no I just have a basic ODBII interface blue tooth thing and torque pro... no error codes and it returns real-time info for ECT and trans temp... but no codes whatsoever.

I think I'm going to start unplugging sensors to see if I can get codes.

I hate it when this happens.something simple I miss and it turns into a headace.
if thé engine only runs for a few seconds then the obd scan tool might not see the codes since the engine isn't running long enough. I would suggest
checking the wiring in the data connector under the hood,
E1 should have ground
TE1 should have power from the computer
B+ should have battery voltage.
E1 is the ground for most of the sensors.
 
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The worst FUBAR for me is not tightening down or completely missing grounds. It can wreck pure havoc on electrical systems.
 
The worst FUBAR for me is not tightening down or completely missing grounds. It can wreck pure havoc on electrical systems.

That's why all my grounds go to a central Blue Sea box. It makes trouble shooting electrical a whole lot easier when you know where everything is.

My biggest dumb ass moment came just after I got my truck. It is pretty similar to what [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] did. I changed the plugs and wires. Simple and not something that has ever given me issues on all the vehicles I've done it to.

I get done verify plug order and fire it up. It runs for 1 second then dies. I start it again and the same thing happens. WTF? Did I really just screw up something that simple? Again, I verify the wires are correct, coils are correct.

I'm starting to feel real dumb at this point. Then I see the MAF sensor harness just flopping in the breeze. Now I feel really, really, really dumb but at least my truck started. lol
 
That hint makes me want to say it’s your spark order.

[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION]


for sure if you swap coil pack connections for 1 and 2 you can make it a 4 banger. not that I wanted to try that but that is what I did.

I removed the last remnants of the old wire loom plastic holder thing. I used fire tape to wrap up the entire wire assembly on both sides.

https://www.amazon.com/010476-Multi-Use-Self-Vulcanizing-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B000MY55F4

before
<a href="https://imgur.com/vbcukCd"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vbcukCdl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after
<a href="https://imgur.com/QmZlMZH"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QmZlMZHl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

its pretty cool stuff... it seems to only stick to itself and it stays flexible (at least so far it did) I'm not impressed with many things but this tape is interesting and works as advertised. it is a biach to work with but... most things seem that way to me.

and now I went for test drive and after about 20 mins I get?

P0125 - Powertrain
Insufficient coolant: temperature for closed loop fuel control

I did replace both front and rear ECT sensors. ODBII reports 188.6-190 and the gauge is smack in the middle so I'm not sure maybe I just need to top it off?

but no knock codes yet so that is ... oh crap I just jinxed it.
 
Get power to the connector? I used a test light to test mine when I replaced my ECT sensor years ago. Yea, forgot to plug it in the first time.

That is one clean engine.
 

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