I need to vent! ready to junk this truck!

[owyheerat]

Nice looking 4Runner.

Few questions. How much weight you think you running in the back ? You daily it ? And what is your front set at ? 3"?

Thanks. I would guess around 400lbs. My bumper is heavy, plus my spare, hi-lift, Tred Pro's, shovel, axe, sleeping platform / storage drawers (loaded) and usually a 75lb golden retriever.

It's not my DD.

I think I have at least 3" up front. I have Tundra coils with adjustable Bilsteins set on 3rd perch.

 

[T4R2014]

My opinion is no better than anyone else's...and neither is yours.

Yayyy we're all worthless.

Love y'allz

 

[kolelt]

is there a place that you could buy all new studs, nuts for the rear diff? that hold the 3rd member?

 

[Scramble]

is there a place that you could buy all new studs, nuts for the rear diff? that hold the 3rd member?

I'm going to go out on a limb here & say the dealer. When I switch to the locked axle I'm replacing the studs & nuts with bolts. The studs loosen up over time.

 

[kolelt]

I'm going to go out on a limb here & say the dealer. When I switch to the locked axle I'm replacing the studs & nuts with bolts. The studs loosen up over time.

I'm just going to end up reusing old ones. Studs are fine. Strong as hell. I can assure mine weren't loose and I'm sure most aren't either.

What I did find was a stud conversion kit online. You put bolts from inside facing out

 

[Sean K.]

I'm just going to end up reusing old ones. Studs are fine. Strong as hell. I can assure mine weren't loose and I'm sure most aren't either.

What I did find was a stud conversion kit online. You put bolts from inside facing out

Not sure that's a good idea. Stud fasteners are designed to stretch in two directions for a reason.

 

[kolelt]

Not sure that's a good idea. Stud fasteners are designed to stretch in two directions for a reason.

We are not talking about head studs here. Be fine. Cannot find OEM replacement it online. I'll try dealer but if it's expensive I'm good

 

[Unner]

This should be the part number for the two longer studs.

90116-08330

Got it from this source.
4Runners.org - E-locker Retrofit

 

[kolelt]

This should be the part number for the two longer studs.

90116-08330

Got it from this source.
4Runners.org - E-locker Retrofit

Funny thing is those 2 are the best shape out of all lol. I'll go to dealer see what they have to offer. Because the little ones are hard to find. I know marlin crawler has some. But they have few different versions. Long and short. So who knows. If there was a simple master kit. That would be the best.

 

[kolelt]

I'm going to go out on a limb here & say the dealer. When I switch to the locked axle I'm replacing the studs & nuts with bolts. The studs loosen up over time.

yeah so went to the dealer. $2 a stud, $2 a nut and $2 a washer. Was like $60 something with all that plus 2 lower shock bolts

 

[Sean K.]

We are not talking about head studs here. Be fine. Cannot find OEM replacement it online. I'll try dealer but if it's expensive I'm good

I wouldn't recommend it on steering arms, hubs OR a third member....but it's your call. Good luck with it.

 

[Scramble]

yeah so went to the dealer. $2 a stud, $2 a nut and $2 a washer. Was like $60 something with all that plus 2 lower shock bolts

Damn, I'd pay $2 a stud but not a washer! LOL Grade 8 Bolts would have been cheaper.

Can you remove the carrier without removing the axles? I want to redo my gasket. Thanks

 

[Rockdawg84]

if your short studs are fine then don't change them but if they are jacked then use the bolt conversion. The bolt gets threaded through the back of the mounting plate to create a stud with a backing head. 1st gen guys do it all the time because the threads in the housing can strip out. I agree with [MENTION=144462]Sean K.[/MENTION] that you should not use a bolt from the front. But a stud that can't pull through is great, then use the washer and nuts you already have. Cost me about 15 bucks to buy a box of bolts and did the front and rear of my '84.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Can you remove the carrier without removing the axles? I want to redo my gasket. Thanks

no you can't. Axle shafts have to come out. So brakes have to bleed the brakes when your done. Not a huge deal really, 1 brake line, 4 nuts and disconnect the ebrake and they slide right out.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Full disclosure: I read nothing but your first post.

Going to play devil's advocate a bit here...

Icon doesn't know what size tires you're running, what offset your aftermarket wheels are, etc. etc. I'd be willing to be that if you were running stock wheels/tires (like no one does, but maybe their test truck did) you'd have no issues hitting your reservoir. Or, if you were running a wheel with a more aggressive offset (which is more likely of their test truck).

I never hit mine, but I am positive that had I not been running 1.25" spacers I would have absolutely destroyed the things.

As for springs: so many people have tried to make those Super Flex springs work with big weight in the back. So many people have failed. OME 861 seems to be the ONLY spring that's up to the task.

Shocks: I still don't understand how your shocks are so different. You should have wayyyy more up travel than what your exposed shaft shows you're capable of.

Sorry if all that has already been said. Sucks about the locker!

 

[Scramble]

no you can't. Axle shafts have to come out. So brakes have to bleed the brakes when your done. Not a huge deal really, 1 brake line, 4 nuts and disconnect the ebrake and they slide right out.

Thats what I thought, I was hoping there was an easier way to cheat.
Thanks Dawg!

 

[Scramble]

if your short studs are fine then don't change them but if they are jacked then use the bolt conversion. The bolt gets threaded through the back of the mounting plate to create a stud with a backing head. 1st gen guys do it all the time because the threads in the housing can strip out. I agree with [MENTION=144462]Sean K.[/MENTION] that you should not use a bolt from the front. But a stud that can't pull through is great, then use the washer and nuts you already have. Cost me about 15 bucks to buy a box of bolts and did the front and rear of my '84.

The only problem up here with reusing old parts is rust.

 

[ThorInc]

The only problem up here with reusing old parts is rust.

Yeah, that's actually a significant issue for many.:iagree:

 

[kolelt]

Like i said, i ordered new OEM studs and bolts and washers for the 3rd member. Mine weren't beat up just some had a lot of rust. I know if i put new OEM ones ill sleep better lol. I'm not going to use the gasket, but actually use Toyota red silicone to seal it back up. I got my OME 861 in, waiting on 5mm OME spacers so i can eliminate the OEM cones. Waiting on Elocker carrier bearing. Waiting on lower shock bolt, 3rd member studs, and waiting on lower shock spacer that comes with ICON shocks!

Here are some photos of it apart, turns out the bearing kit did not have elocker side carrier bearing. But toyota has it for $30.













This is how i fixed the locker motor. just JB weld!

[MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] thanks for your input on the shocks. I know me and you have talked about it alot together. And I agree with you. But if a company like ICON test their products on stock rig, then they deserve to be punched in the throat lol.

Now you said you run spacers? 1.25" ? and you think because of that you never touched the resi ? And the spacers have been holding up good when off roading and stuff?

 

[kolelt]

Damn, I'd pay $2 a stud but not a washer! LOL Grade 8 Bolts would have been cheaper.

Can you remove the carrier without removing the axles? I want to redo my gasket. Thanks

I've read where people somehow don't disconnect anything and only slide the axle shaft out like 4-6" and leave it there. But for me, it was a lot easier to just disconnect the brakes and simply slide the whole axle shaft out. Not big deal, in theory you only need to slide them out just little. But some say its not a good idea to leave them in the housing because it can mess up the axle seal.