I really can't do anything right....

Got an axle on order from yukon gear and axle. Should be here wednesday. I plan on sending the new axle to the machine shop with the old axle to have them pull of the drums and stuff and press on the new bearing.

Here's the parts list that I found that I need:

90310-50006 x 1 - Rear Axle Oil Seal
42423-20010 x 1 - Axle Bearing Retainer
90363-40020-77 x 1 - Radial Ball Bearing
43517-35010 x 1 - Skid Control Rotor

I'm not sure about the transfer of the brake drums. I'm not good with that. I was thinking the machine shop could handle that. Will they need any parts? I do not wish to replace pads. Please let me know if you guys see anything that I might be missing.

Thanks!

EDIT: The machine shop wants $155 for the labor. Does that sound right?
 
Last edited:
a216vcti said:
Got an axle on order from yukon gear and axle. Should be here wednesday. I plan on sending the new axle to the machine shop with the old axle to have them pull of the drums and stuff and press on the new bearing.

Here's the parts list that I found that I need:

90310-50006 x 1 - Rear Axle Oil Seal
42423-20010 x 1 - Axle Bearing Retainer
90363-40020-77 x 1 - Radial Ball Bearing
43517-35010 x 1 - Skid Control Rotor

I'm not sure about the transfer of the brake drums. I'm not good with that. I was thinking the machine shop could handle that. Will they need any parts? I do not wish to replace pads. Please let me know if you guys see anything that I might be missing.

Thanks!

EDIT: The machine shop wants $155 for the labor. Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

That sounds high to me, I was thinking more in the $75 range, worth checking around.
 
IBallEngineer said:
That sounds high to me, I was thinking more in the $75 range, worth checking around.
Click to expand...

So, the price was $155. I figured out why it was so high, they pulled off all of the old parts instead of cutting through them. Since I can't do anything right, I asked after I paid and picked up. I would have told them just cut through the parts because I'll be replacing everything with new. Also, I had him check the old axle and he said that it was definitely bent. The axle is reinstalled and and the wheel is spinning without and wobble. Special thanks to you IBallEngineer for all of your help throughout this ordeal.

Cost Breakdown:

$177 - Axle
$165 - Bearing, ABS Ring, 2 Collars, Snap Ring, Outer Gasket
$155 - Machine Shop
$20 - 75w-90 Gear Oil
$3 - Brake Fluid
-----------------------------------
$520 - No wheel wobble
 
I hope you folks didn't think I was done with you! So now my issue is that there aren't enough threads on the wheel studs with the spacers on there. I can't really return the wheels, was thinking about replacing the studs with a set of studs that were longer. I was also told that there are lugs called tuner lugs that would fit. Anyone have a recommendation?
 
a216vcti said:
I hope you folks didn't think I was done with you! So now my issue is that there aren't enough threads on the wheel studs with the spacers on there. I can't really return the wheels, was thinking about replacing the studs with a set of studs that were longer. I was also told that there are lugs called tuner lugs that would fit. Anyone have a recommendation?
Click to expand...

How thick are the wheel spacers? Never heard of tuner lugs, but if you ain't got threads that's a NO GOOD. If we are talking 1/4" I'd say longer studs would be no problem. Much more than that and I'd look into bolt on spacers like this.

Toyota Hub Centric Wheel Spacer Kit

:humble:
 
The spacers a 1/2", i think the spidertracks would push the tires out too much. They're already about 2" out of the fender.
 
HELP! What's the proper procedure to reinstall the studs? I can get them out fine, I just can't get them to seat correctly. There's still a little gap on a few of the studs. I installed them by putting a bolt and washer on the stud then popping the lug nut on and torquing it down however the lug nut starts to grind down. I've destroyed about 4 lug nuts installing these studs in this manner.

Should I pull off the hub and have the studs pressed in? Anyone have a right up on that? Or an easier way? I tried finding a bolt that was 12 x 1.25 to use to torque the studs on but they are apparently hard to find.
 
a216vcti said:
HELP! What's the proper procedure to reinstall the studs? I can get them out fine, I just can't get them to seat correctly. There's still a little gap on a few of the studs. I installed them by putting a bolt and washer on the stud then popping the lug nut on and torquing it down however the lug nut starts to grind down. I've destroyed about 4 lug nuts installing these studs in this manner.

Should I pull off the hub and have the studs pressed in? Anyone have a right up on that? Or an easier way? I tried finding a bolt that was 12 x 1.25 to use to torque the studs on but they are apparently hard to find.
Click to expand...

Yes pressing or hammering from the back side is preferred. But you can also try the method you are using, only take a propane torch and heat the flange a little, or take some freon and "freeze" the stud. We used to put bearing races in the freezer prior to installing to make them go in easier. I can tell you that I once had a stubborn hole that wouldn't let the stud seat completely. I had 5 in and this one ate up 3 studs. So I put it in that way and forgot about it. Never gave me a problem but everytime I removed that wheel I would notice the "short" stud and remember. I don't have the axle anymore, but I'm sure it's still on that axle!
 
Why won't this thing just be done with!?!? I need your help again guys! So I called up motorsport-tech.com to have some custom spacers made for the 4runner. They are 1/4 Inch thick and have a mounting ring for a 106.1mm hub. They are installed on all 4 corners. All of the tires are new, less than 400 miles on the BFG A/T KO2 285/75/16 on 16x8 pro-comp steel wheels.

Does anyone know where to start checking if my car is vibrating like crazy at higher speed? Also, my steering wheel is slightly moving back and forth as it drives down the road.

I tried to find something that was loose by jacking it up and wiggling everything around but I couldn't find anything. The LBJs were replaced with OEM balljoints within the past 10k miles.
 
a216vcti said:
Why won't this thing just be done with!?!? I need your help again guys! So I called up motorsport-tech.com to have some custom spacers made for the 4runner. They are 1/4 Inch thick and have a mounting ring for a 106.1mm hub. They are installed on all 4 corners. All of the tires are new, less than 400 miles on the BFG A/T KO2 285/75/16 on 16x8 pro-comp steel wheels.

Does anyone know where to start checking if my car is vibrating like crazy at higher speed? Also, my steering wheel is slightly moving back and forth as it drives down the road.

I tried to find something that was loose by jacking it up and wiggling everything around but I couldn't find anything. The LBJs were replaced with OEM balljoints within the past 10k miles.
Click to expand...
initially, I would be suspect of the spacers. do whatever you need to, to rule those out.


did you ever get the studs fully seated? that could cause issues....

next, would be a bad tire. rotate them back to front, and see if the steering wheel wobble goes away. if yes, you have a bad(separating) tire.
 
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