ICON Lift thoughts

[deekoi]

Just an observation on the Icon uppers that grant posted.

These are also uniball arms so you can expect all the same maintenance issues as the billets or any other uniball based arms. Not saying they aren't good arms, they are very good but considering cost and maintenance required I think the LR is the best choice. My opinion or course.

Thanks Qjake and everyone! This helps a bunch!
:thanks:

Also don't forget he has wheels spacers as well. Adding wheel spacers (pushing the tire/wheel outwards) in addition to a more aggressive tire makes the stock tire size appear significantly bigger than they are, and gives it an overall better look.

I looked around for spacers and saw a couple of different options.
Spidertrax & Nitro Gear

Any recommendations? Are they all the same?

 

[FERAL 4R]

I looked around for spacers and saw a couple of different options.
Spidertrax & Nitro Gear

Any recommendations? Are they all the same?

Spidertrax are good to go. Never heard of the Nitro Gear ones, but they're sold through Metal Tech so they must be ok as well. I ran All Pro Off Road spacers on my FJC and never had an issue. Key is to use red loctite on the lug nuts that attach the spacer and torque according to spec, then re-check torque after roughly 50 miles of driving.

 

[deekoi]

Thanks again everyone for the input.

One last question, Stage-1-lift-w-metal-tech-links.aspx Any one have experience with the Offset Lower Links?
Worth it to have?? Main reason I ask is because they have a sale on them right now for stage 1 package. Regular price is $1918.16 - sale price is $1700.

I read about it from their website but still don't know enough about it. Anyone know if there is additional maintenance with these too? Aside from the greasing like the UCA. Of course their website makes it a little more compelling with providing additional travel and articulation.

:ybrick:

 

[Qjake]

I would go for the other kit that has the LR uca's as they will allow for better alignment specs.

Those links are nice but IMO they aren't needed as the limiting factor for rear travel will be the sway bar. Unless of course you opt for metaltech's new extended travel rear springs but now you're adding another $500 I believe.

 

[Qjake]

Here is an extended travel kit for both front and rear but it doesn't include the UCA's which you would definitely need for the fronts.

 

[deekoi]

Here is an extended travel kit for both front and rear but it doesn't include the UCA's which you would definitely need for the fronts.

Thanks!

There wasn't any savings for the stage 2 vs stage 1 + UCA on the side so since they have this deal going on, I'm adding it to consideration/confusion :dammit:

Anyone have this? this make a big difference?

 

[Qjake]

So you're adding the Extended travel kit to the mix?? Ooh now you've piqued my interest:boink: You'll need uca's not sure why they don't include them but probably cuz you have a few to choose from. You'll also have to inquire about the rear sway bar, not sure if they offer longer links or if removal is the way to go.

 

[deekoi]

I've been researching on long travel vs lift kit and how this package would help or not help me.

I found some of this information helpful:
"A typical lift kits main goal is to get the truck raised higher off the ground and to allow the clearance of larger tires. Some, but not all lift kits are made tougher than the original suspension and are made for off-roading... typically slower speed off roading. The lift gives you the ability to run larger tires and gives you better departure and approach angles on obstacles because your bumpers are higher. There is a happy medium when it comes to lifts for off-road purposes though... once you go more than 6" or 8" inches max you're center of gravity gets too high which can make the truck un-stable on off camber terrain.

Long travel suspension is made for high speed desert runs and jumping. Typically a long travel truck wont even be that much higher from the ground then a stock truck... normally somewhere between 4 to 6 inches of lift... but the new suspension is able to cycle more inches of travel when hitting bumps and what not. Most trucks (not all) with long travel run bulged and raised fiberglass fenders and bedsides to allow bigger tires to fit and also so the suspension can cycle up further. If you can afford doing a long travel kit, go for it!... mine will someday. But unless you plan on hauling ass through the desert or hitting jumps, you most likely dont need it."

So with my setup, sticking with the stock size and Firestone AT, the Stage 1 - rear-long-travel-kiticon-coilovers kit.aspx raises the rear by 3" which would be too high. So for now the rear long travel kit wouldn't be one of my options.

Question: Is there any benefit to getting only the Stage-1-lift-w-metal-tech-links.aspx without the rear?

 

[Intruder]

Long travel suspension is made for high speed desert runs and jumping. Typically a long travel truck wont even be that much higher from the ground then a stock truck... normally somewhere between 4 to 6 inches of lift... but the new suspension is able to cycle more inches of travel when hitting bumps and what not. Most trucks (not all) with long travel run bulged and raised fiberglass fenders and bedsides to allow bigger tires to fit and also so the suspension can cycle up further. If you can afford doing a long travel kit, go for it!... mine will someday. But unless you plan on hauling ass through the desert or hitting jumps, you most likely dont need it."

I disagree with most of this. I've seen plenty of long travel trucks that only sit maybe 3" higher than stock - long travel is about droop, not height. Also, long travel is great for rock crawling since it keeps your tires touching the ground in situations where you'd be three wheeling otherwise.

 

[Qjake]

Just FYI, There is a definite difference between long travel and extended travel.

While Metal-Tech is calling their rear lift "long travel" it's more of an extended travel and not a true long travel set-up. If you decide to go with the long travel rear then yes the lower links are recommended as the oem links will bind. You will also need to remove the rear sway bar to enjoy the full benefit of this set-up.

If you go with the 2" lift coils then there is no need for the rear links as the oem links will allow enough travel without binding and you will keep your sway bar.

I'm also interested in this rear set-up and spoke with Brandon at Metal-Tech yesterday. He was very helpful explaining all aspects of the kit and patiently answered all my questions. You should give them a call as they can certainly answer your question better than us and they're super helpful and good guys to bs with.

 

[deekoi]

Purchased! Got the deal they had on Stage 1 w/ Offset Lower Links & LR UCA

Decided not to go with the extended travel. I may consider it down the line but for now and the stuff I do, I'll be more than happy with it.

Thanks for everyone's help! :cheers:

 

[FactoryRide]

That's awesome man! Congrats! I'll be looking forward to seeing it installed!

 

[Keemonrunnin]

Purchased! Got the deal they had on Stage 1 w/ Offset Lower Links & LR UCA

Decided not to go with the extended travel. I may consider it down the line but for now and the stuff I do, I'll be more than happy with it.

Thanks for everyone's help! :cheers:

Yahhhhh! as soon as its installed, when do you wanna go test it?