Ideal Caster?

[Streams]

Hi all,

I searched around a bit, but couldn't find a definitive thread. I know it'll depend on the vehicle, along with size & type of lift, tires, etc, but I was wondering if anyone could advise the ideal Caster degree for say a 3/2 bilstein/toytec, with 265/70/17.
I've read everything from "as positive as you can get" to zero. FWIW, I'm mostly concerned with tracking straight on the highway, and I'm at -1.7 & experiencing some moderate float on the highway.

Also, I imagine that it's been discussed in length, I just couldn't find it. Any steering in the right direction (see what I did there) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[badattitude]

can you post your current complete specs? Camber, Caster and Toe?

 

[Streams]

 

[Inv4drZm]

The alignment sheet says where it is at and which numbers it should be between.

For Caster it says between 2.5 and 4 and the black arrow pointing down shows where you are currently at in comparison to those numbers. You are actually at positive 1.7 degrees.

So ideally you should be at 2.5-3 degrees caster but if you are trying to stuff a large set of tires (35s) for instance, you would want a higher number (around 5.5-6) to push the tire away from your firewall but that has the effect of wearing the outsides of your tires when you turn.

 

[Cisco Kid]

Assuming you don't have a seized cam bolt on the lower control arm, 2.3 to 2.7 degrees is pretty much the max you are going to see with factory upper control arms and a 3 inch lift. Currently I am running JBA upper control arms on my truck and both sides are right at 4 degrees.

 

[Streams]

Thanks guys, and good eye. For some reason, I thought that I was at a negative caster. I'm going to have them max it out & if it's still floaty, I'll look into some ucas.

 

[Streams]

The alignment sheet says where it is at and which numbers it should be between.

For Caster it says between 2.5 and 4 and the black arrow pointing down shows where you are currently at in comparison to those numbers. You are actually at positive 1.7 degrees.

So ideally you should be at 2.5-3 degrees caster but if you are trying to stuff a large set of tires (35s) for instance, you would want a higher number (around 5.5-6) to push the tire away from your firewall but that has the effect of wearing the outsides of your tires when you turn.

Thanks man. So I'm guessing that it's between negative 4 and positive 2.5, because if the arrow shows where I'm at, it doesn't make sense if both outer parameters are positive. I guess I had that backwards. Also, if the arrow shows where I'm at, it doesn't make sense if both outer parameters are positive.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Thanks man. So I'm guessing that it's between negative 4 and positive 2.5, because if the arrow shows where I'm at, it doesn't make sense if both outer parameters are positive. I guess I had that backwards. Also, if the arrow shows where I'm at, it doesn't make sense if both outer parameters are positive.

I thought the same thing for a little while too. The min and max are not at the far sides of the bar (where the numbers seem to indicate). They are actually located at the little steps inside: where the green zone is inside the red Caster bar for example.

 

[Streams]

I thought the same thing for a little while too. The min and max are not at the far sides of the bar (where the numbers seem to indicate). They are actually located at the little steps inside: where the green zone is inside the red Caster bar for example.

Ah, now it makes total sense. Thanks!

 

[alia176]

I systematically lifted and checked alignment during each suspension iteration, that's the beauty of having a lifetime alignment from Firestone. Somewhere in this board, I have some alignment printout shots with each suspension iteration. Now, I'm at 1.5" of lift up front and the caster is prolly around 1.5deg and I find it a bit "floaty" or "wandering" so a set of UCAs are in my future as well. Sure, I'm used to it but it's nothing like what 2.5deg felt like.

Although the eBay arms are hotly contested due to the lack of quality on some, lots of folks have had good luck with them so I may go that route strictly for the "bang for the buck" factor.

 

[Runn4est]

Although the eBay arms are hotly contested due to the lack of quality on some, lots of folks have had good luck with them so I may go that route strictly for the "bang for the buck" factor.

Group buy on SPC Uppers going on right now. Great pricing for a known name brand product with support for their products. Without publicly disclosing price, they really aren't much more expensive than the ebay uppers shipped to your door.

 

[alia176]

Group buy on SPC Uppers going on right now. Great pricing for a known name brand product with support for their products. Without publicly disclosing price, they really aren't much more expensive than the ebay uppers shipped to your door.

Oh SNAP, where? In this website? Let me go see.

 

[having fun]

Thanks guys, and good eye. For some reason, I thought that I was at a negative caster. I'm going to have them max it out & if it's still floaty, I'll look into some ucas.

They pretty much maxed you out already.
When caster numbers go up, camber numbers go up at the same time and visa versa.

If you look at your camber numbers, your pretty much at max ( factory spects), so if they raise your caster anymore you go out of camber spects.

The higher your camber goes from what you have, creates more tire wear on the outside. "0" camber is ideal for tire wear, wears flat.

 

[Runn4est]

Oh SNAP, where? In this website? Let me go see.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group...uy-all-gen-4runners-tacomas-fj-cruiser-3.html

 

[alia176]

gracias, I"m on it.