Idle RPMs?
- Thread starter majbjb
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bytemaster0
New member
High RPM on first (cold) start is normal, as it heats up the catalytic converter to keep emissions under control. The fan clutch should also engage, as it is filling with the fluid from the clutch's internal reservoir. After about 15-30 seconds, fan should spin down. The engine RPMs will likely remain high for up to 5 minutes. If you go drive somewhere for 3-5 minutes, then come to a stop and put it in neutral or park, what are your RPMs then? In gear, it should be about 650ish.
majbjb
New member
Thanks all, something isn't right I do believe, as even after a 10 minute drive to work, idle is still hovering at or just above 1000 rpms. Just purchased this and it's my first gas powered 4 Runner, so was hoping this was maybe a normal idiosynchrosy of the breed. Sigh,,,may need a trip to the local Toyota dealer who everyone says has a great service department...
bytemaster0
New member
Though specifically for the V8 that has a timing belt, rather than the timing chain in the V6, this thread may have something relevant to your issue (seems it resolves itself after a few days once the ECM learns cam positions properly.)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/114572-high-idle-after-timing-belt-water-pump.html
Atlanta_man
New member
I had a problem somewhat like this on a 96 Pontiac. Turned out to be a poor connection, corroded main ground wire from the ecm at the bolt connecting it to the car metal. Took a long time for the dealer to find this.
So the last few days I've been researching jumpy idling. 2007 4.0L v6 Limited. When I was in park my idle would jump between 500 to 900 every 10-20 seconds then go back down to 500. It was like it was searching for idle. I just bought this used with 158,000 miles on it 2 weeks ago. I read a bunch of threads about cleaning the throttle body and mass airflow sensor.
So that's what I did. I got some CRC MAF and Throttle Body cleaner, disconnected the negative battery terminal to start the process of resetting the ECU, took both of them completely out and cleaned them. The back plated of the throttle body was gunked up with black gum pretty well on the edges and the walls. I suggest taking the whole throttle body off detaching the coolant lines. You lose only a few drops of coolant and it's way easier to clean in the nooks and crannies versus leaning over constantly straining your back to clean it. I also used a brass wire brush on the throttle body since brass is a soft metal and that worked well.
I buttoned everything back up, reconnected the battery (took me about an hour to do everything, wanted to make sure I reconnected everything correctly), started the engine and I let the truck set there for 30 minutes without touching anything. I wanted to see if the computer could relearn everything. Came back, sat in the drivers seat and watched the idle, the truck idled at about 700 without the needle moving a millimeter. It was nice and steady.
After watching it idle for a few minutes after it had sat for 30 minutes idling, I took it out for a drive. Acceleration was noticeably smoother. With it in drive waiting at a stop-light it would idle at 550-600 steady, A lot of times before it would search for idle even then and jump between 600-800 before the cleaning.
I don't know if this is related or not, but before the cleaning when I would accelerate mildly (ie: getting off a ramp onto the interstate), I could feel the vibration of the engine through the pedaling noticeably on hard acceleration...now when I do that the vibration is almost gone and I don't feel it. It just feels like it runs much smoother now.
In October I'm going to do some big fluid changes. Oil, all the differentials/transfer case and grease the drive shaft zerk fittings. I plan on using a fuel additive to hopefully clean up the fuel injectors. I was going to use Amsoil P.I., but read a lot of good things about GB 44K. Any recommendations?
So that's what I did. I got some CRC MAF and Throttle Body cleaner, disconnected the negative battery terminal to start the process of resetting the ECU, took both of them completely out and cleaned them. The back plated of the throttle body was gunked up with black gum pretty well on the edges and the walls. I suggest taking the whole throttle body off detaching the coolant lines. You lose only a few drops of coolant and it's way easier to clean in the nooks and crannies versus leaning over constantly straining your back to clean it. I also used a brass wire brush on the throttle body since brass is a soft metal and that worked well.
I buttoned everything back up, reconnected the battery (took me about an hour to do everything, wanted to make sure I reconnected everything correctly), started the engine and I let the truck set there for 30 minutes without touching anything. I wanted to see if the computer could relearn everything. Came back, sat in the drivers seat and watched the idle, the truck idled at about 700 without the needle moving a millimeter. It was nice and steady.
After watching it idle for a few minutes after it had sat for 30 minutes idling, I took it out for a drive. Acceleration was noticeably smoother. With it in drive waiting at a stop-light it would idle at 550-600 steady, A lot of times before it would search for idle even then and jump between 600-800 before the cleaning.
I don't know if this is related or not, but before the cleaning when I would accelerate mildly (ie: getting off a ramp onto the interstate), I could feel the vibration of the engine through the pedaling noticeably on hard acceleration...now when I do that the vibration is almost gone and I don't feel it. It just feels like it runs much smoother now.
In October I'm going to do some big fluid changes. Oil, all the differentials/transfer case and grease the drive shaft zerk fittings. I plan on using a fuel additive to hopefully clean up the fuel injectors. I was going to use Amsoil P.I., but read a lot of good things about GB 44K. Any recommendations?
