it was done at the dealership, had service up till 55k miles . I was checking how easy it would be to do oil changes and if it could be done without ramps and notice the bolt. Still debating if I'll do the service , shop prices range from $59 to $110, dealer is at $89 (probably cheaper with specials). My cost is probably $50-60 for parts.
If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!
- Thread starter Cymon
- Start date
it was done at the dealership, had service up till 55k miles . I was checking how easy it would be to do oil changes and if it could be done without ramps and notice the bolt. Still debating if I'll do the service , shop prices range from $59 to $110, dealer is at $89 (probably cheaper with specials). My cost is probably $50-60 for parts.
Saker
Senior Member
I would be sure to point the issue out to the Serviice Shop Foreman, not the service writer.
Inform him/her to your findings (make sure they understand the issue) and the dangers it could have caused if it would have come off. Also explain the locking pliers that were left on your vehicle.
This may help or it may not, but if they are informed & you have an issue in the future, they have it noted. (Make sure they write it in your records!)
BTW, you may want to look into doing this:
TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021
Last edited:
thatoneguy
New member
Good thread. Just got the TRD skid plate on my '23 ORP (non-KDSS). I offroad occasionally and have had it for two years, so there's probably gunk in those holes.
The skid comes with new long rear bolts. Some people on this thread have just opted to re-use the short original bolts, but it's noted/warned that those only grip a few threads. In installing the new rear bolts, mine stick out this far in the photo.
I presume they should be able to fit flush? Would chasing the threads to get the gunk out likely solve it? Can I leave it like this for now, or am I taking a risk by doing so?
The front bolts are on, and flush, with those metal cylinder spacers they came with.
The skid comes with new long rear bolts. Some people on this thread have just opted to re-use the short original bolts, but it's noted/warned that those only grip a few threads. In installing the new rear bolts, mine stick out this far in the photo.
I presume they should be able to fit flush? Would chasing the threads to get the gunk out likely solve it? Can I leave it like this for now, or am I taking a risk by doing so?
The front bolts are on, and flush, with those metal cylinder spacers they came with.
Saker
Senior Member
Good thread. Just got the TRD skid plate on my '23 ORP (non-KDSS). I offroad occasionally and have had it for two years, so there's probably gunk in those holes.
The skid comes with new long rear bolts. Some people on this thread have just opted to re-use the short original bolts, but it's noted/warned that those only grip a few threads. In installing the new rear bolts, mine stick out this far in the photo.
I presume they should be able to fit flush? Would chasing the threads to get the gunk out likely solve it? Can I leave it like this for now, or am I taking a risk by doing so?
The front bolts are on, and flush, with those metal cylinder spacers they came with.
If the .38 bore brush won’t clean the threads where the bolts go in without force, you should chase the threads so you do not create a worse condition.
Amazon has thread chasers.
Don’t take shortcuts.
