Ignition key does not turn

Traveler74

New member
The ignition key will SOMETIMES turn and SOMETIMES not. 1996 T4R, SR-5, V-6 automatic tranny. Shift lever in park. 195 K miles on vehicle. I assume that the key is worn down ? Amazon has cylinder and key for only $25, but is this one of those things that it is better to buy a new ignition lock from the stealer ?
How difficult is it to replace ? Special tools needed?

Also, I think I have a "dead short" in the tail light wiring system. The tail lights did not come on and I found a blown 10 amp fuse. I replaced that fuse and when I turned on the lights, it blew another fuse. "Dead short" somewhere ?
Thanks guys
 
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The ignition key will SOMETIMES turn and SOMETIMES not. 1996 T4R, SR-5, V-6 automatic tranny. Shift lever in park. 195 K miles on vehicle. I assume that the key is worn down ? Amazon has cylinder and key for only $25, but is this one of those things that it is better to buy a new ignition lock from the stealer ?
How difficult is it to replace ? Special tools needed?
Thanks guys
At the risk of sounding rude, have you tried searching on here about ignition cylinder replacement? https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&rlz=1C1QJDB_enUS784US793&sxsrf=ALeKk00swFKa08XMUYm5s8IDkGEcQ2IEKQ%3A1597163212442&ei=zMYyX6vXGsG8sAWU15TYDA&q=site%3Atoyota-4Runner.org%2F3rd-gen-t4rs%2F+ignition&oq=site%3Atoyota-4Runner.org%2F3rd-gen-t4rs%2F+ignition&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQA1DgClj2GmCHHmgAcAB4AIABOIgBhQSSAQIxMJgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrAAQE&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwir7bPPyJPrAhVBHqwKHZQrBcsQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
 
Also, I think I have a "dead short" in the tail light wiring system. The tail lights did not come on and I found a blown 10 amp fuse. I replaced that fuse and when I turned on the lights, it blew another fuse. "Dead short" somewhere ?
Thanks guys
Start with removing/inspecting your trailer light wiring conveter. It should be found behind one of the rear interior quarter panels in the hatch area. (even OEM changed sides over the years - you'll just have to check both sides)

Replacements are cheap on etrailer.com if that is your problem.

-Charlie
 
I had the same issue over the past year and a half. Randomly, I could not get the key to work in the cylinder, leaving me sitting in the car, trying to jiggle the key for a hour to get it started. I used some triflow lube as recommended by numerous online searches and at first it literally made things worse and I thought I had made the wrong decision. After some time of putting the key in, jiggling and removing, I ended up having a huge amount of metal shavings pull out into the the grooves of the key. At one point the entire length of the key was filled with these shavings and from there I kept cleaning it and reinserting. Since spending around an hour that day as stated above, I am issue free since and it is noticeably more smooth starting the vehicle. I know someone recently posted about this issue as well and how they used compressed air, wd40 and gun oil to solve their issue. When researching this issue, the main fix seemed to be getting a new key from the dealer but since mine was chipped and the dealer wanted something like $160 for a new key. It seems rare to need to replace the cylinder itself but I did encounter that on a few post when looking into this.
 
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Like phattyduck said it could be a bad trailer harness or trailer light converter.
Simple check I did when I went through that was, unplug the converter and harness. Then change the fuse. One by one plug the unplugged back and check the fuse. When the fuse blows you found your issue.
My issue was smashed and grounded trailer light harness which blew the trailer light converter. I had to replace both.
 
I cleaned mine with WD-40 and an Compress Airblower with a Basketball inflation Needle. Just spray some WD-40 with the straw, insert the key a few times, blow it out, repeat a few times. Now do the same thing with the key inserted and turned.

Finally lube with some Tri-Flo or Gun Lube and call it good.
 

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