Inheritance Build
- Thread starter wslytoy
- Start date
They're 3.5" BS. I'm really glad I went w/ those... I've always been a big fan of wider stance. Keep a close eye on eBay for tires. Summit & Discount have had some really good prices lately, plus free shipping. If your local tire stores are anything like mine, buying them online & getting them mounted still saves me $150-200. There's plenty of siping in the lugs, so I suspect they'll ride & shed water fairly well.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Sure hope you give us review on those tires Look bad azz. I've been running STT's 285's for a while 8yrs two sets second set will last this year. Are D.C's full
33" ? For sure want to know how they sound.
33" ? For sure want to know how they sound.
These are the specs according to DC's website on the 285's & the 305's.
285's:
O.D. IN.: 32.8
SEC. WIDTH IN.: 11.3
TREAD WIDTH IN.: 8.6
TREAD DEPTH 32NDS: 18.5
APX. WT. LBS.: 55
MAX INFL / LOAD: 3,750 lbs @
80 psi.
MEAS RIM / APRV RIM: ( 8.0 )
7.5-9.0
305's:
O.D. IN.: 33.0
SEC. WIDTH IN.: 12.0
TREAD WIDTH IN.: 9.7
TREAD DEPTH 32NDS: 19.0
APX. WT. LBS.: 56
MAX INFL / LOAD: 3,525 lbs @
65 psi.
MEAS RIM / APRV RIM: ( 9.0 )
8.0-9.5
Per DC, they're just 0.2" shy of a true 33" tire. But so many are in 285's. Cooper shows their STT Pro's as 32.99" for a 285, but their 305's for 17's are only 32.68". Funny how many different sizes "33's" actually come in.
285's:
O.D. IN.: 32.8
SEC. WIDTH IN.: 11.3
TREAD WIDTH IN.: 8.6
TREAD DEPTH 32NDS: 18.5
APX. WT. LBS.: 55
MAX INFL / LOAD: 3,750 lbs @
80 psi.
MEAS RIM / APRV RIM: ( 8.0 )
7.5-9.0
305's:
O.D. IN.: 33.0
SEC. WIDTH IN.: 12.0
TREAD WIDTH IN.: 9.7
TREAD DEPTH 32NDS: 19.0
APX. WT. LBS.: 56
MAX INFL / LOAD: 3,525 lbs @
65 psi.
MEAS RIM / APRV RIM: ( 9.0 )
8.0-9.5
Per DC, they're just 0.2" shy of a true 33" tire. But so many are in 285's. Cooper shows their STT Pro's as 32.99" for a 285, but their 305's for 17's are only 32.68". Funny how many different sizes "33's" actually come in.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Wes, got those tires mounted yet?
Not yet... They're loaded up in the back right now. I've got whitelines & cam bolts headed to me in the next 2 days. Hopefully I'll have the new bushings installed by Sunday & I can get the tires mounted up next wk. It's killing me not having them mounted. But the truck interior smells like new tires. And that's like my 3rd favorite smell.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Bottle that smell make a million. Don't Know who you would market for tho.
Guy's Gal's or Air freshener.
Guy's Gal's or Air freshener.
Welp, Brown Santa delivered the goods...
I find it telling that these come in a Ziploc bag... Almost like they're expecting you to get pissed after doing 1 side & you do the other side 6 months later when you're no longer disgusted by the process. In the mean time, they stay fresh.
Tis' just the beginning...
Just to preface the remainder of this post, Timmy did an absolutely outstanding walk through on this video. If you're going to do this job, watch this video at least twice.
https://youtu.be/kmaZNBp1gZM
Now, their method of simply unbolting the rack & pinion & supporting it w/ a block & floor jack did not work for me. Once unbolted, the rack did not have enough lateral movement to allow the driver side rear cam bolt to pass under the inner TRE like Tim shows in the video. This was the result
The middle mounting bracket on my 3rd gen has a side vertical support that wouldn't allow lateral movement of the rack.
This part was extremely frustrating & mildly defeating. I'm not sure that sub 2000 model 3rd gens have that vertical support. I'm not sure that they don't. Either way, there was no way to avoid rack removal in my case. Yayyyyy! Now I get to bleed the power steering after this. However, the bright side is that my rack bushings need to be replaced something fierce. Removal of the rack solidified this. This will hold up the process, but I'd rather put things back together full ass & not ½ ass. No comments necessary on the amount of caked oil on the undercarriage. It disgusts me. ½ moons & cam plugs are clearly leaking & will be replaced as soon as she's off jackstands. A good degreasing & pressure washing will be done as well. Yuck.
Once the rack was outta the way, I was off to the races on the drivers side. I got my A-arm in the vice & placed my bottle jack accordingly w/ pressure applied to the bushing. Aaaaaand my torch was outta gas.
Right or wrong, I went forward w/o heat. Bruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhh. Those bushings shot out like a hot round of 338 Lapua.
Prior to their removal, I ran a flathead through the center hole. To say that there was a lot of play is a gross understatement.
The Whitelines press in very easily w/ a decent vice & a pair of channel locks. Just make sure you wait to put the inner sleeves in after you press in the bushings. The washers can be a little troublesome to get in, but the bushings are pliable so they can be tapped in w/ a brass hammer w/o too much trouble. I used a flathead to help w/ alignment so I could get the cams threaded through.
Now, I'm reusing my stock cams & bolts... They're in pretty good shape. However, I ordered some SPC replacements from Toytec. I simply don't feel that these are of sound quality. A plastic center sleeve? No thanks. These will be going back.
Maybe I'm wrong, but these just don't seem like they'd have a very long lifespan. The "instructions" show the cams being installed the opposite of what the stock cams would be.
Driver side is back together, but awaiting proper torquing. Hopefully I can knock out the passenger side this evening & I pray that rack doesn't make me drop multiple F bombs when I try to get that helical gear shaft lined up & back in place.
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I find it telling that these come in a Ziploc bag... Almost like they're expecting you to get pissed after doing 1 side & you do the other side 6 months later when you're no longer disgusted by the process. In the mean time, they stay fresh.
Tis' just the beginning...
Just to preface the remainder of this post, Timmy did an absolutely outstanding walk through on this video. If you're going to do this job, watch this video at least twice.
https://youtu.be/kmaZNBp1gZM
Now, their method of simply unbolting the rack & pinion & supporting it w/ a block & floor jack did not work for me. Once unbolted, the rack did not have enough lateral movement to allow the driver side rear cam bolt to pass under the inner TRE like Tim shows in the video. This was the result
The middle mounting bracket on my 3rd gen has a side vertical support that wouldn't allow lateral movement of the rack.
This part was extremely frustrating & mildly defeating. I'm not sure that sub 2000 model 3rd gens have that vertical support. I'm not sure that they don't. Either way, there was no way to avoid rack removal in my case. Yayyyyy! Now I get to bleed the power steering after this. However, the bright side is that my rack bushings need to be replaced something fierce. Removal of the rack solidified this. This will hold up the process, but I'd rather put things back together full ass & not ½ ass. No comments necessary on the amount of caked oil on the undercarriage. It disgusts me. ½ moons & cam plugs are clearly leaking & will be replaced as soon as she's off jackstands. A good degreasing & pressure washing will be done as well. Yuck.
Once the rack was outta the way, I was off to the races on the drivers side. I got my A-arm in the vice & placed my bottle jack accordingly w/ pressure applied to the bushing. Aaaaaand my torch was outta gas.
Right or wrong, I went forward w/o heat. Bruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhh. Those bushings shot out like a hot round of 338 Lapua.
Prior to their removal, I ran a flathead through the center hole. To say that there was a lot of play is a gross understatement.
The Whitelines press in very easily w/ a decent vice & a pair of channel locks. Just make sure you wait to put the inner sleeves in after you press in the bushings. The washers can be a little troublesome to get in, but the bushings are pliable so they can be tapped in w/ a brass hammer w/o too much trouble. I used a flathead to help w/ alignment so I could get the cams threaded through.
Now, I'm reusing my stock cams & bolts... They're in pretty good shape. However, I ordered some SPC replacements from Toytec. I simply don't feel that these are of sound quality. A plastic center sleeve? No thanks. These will be going back.
Maybe I'm wrong, but these just don't seem like they'd have a very long lifespan. The "instructions" show the cams being installed the opposite of what the stock cams would be.
Driver side is back together, but awaiting proper torquing. Hopefully I can knock out the passenger side this evening & I pray that rack doesn't make me drop multiple F bombs when I try to get that helical gear shaft lined up & back in place.
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Welp, while I was pulling the passenger side, the rear cam sub assembly wouldn't come out. So I whacked it a few times & it remained in place. After hitting it w/ some WD-40 & several more whacks w/ a mallet... The cam came off the splines & the tube remained. After about 20 minutes of working it back & forth, I was finally able to get the tube out. As you can tell, it was rusted up pretty good. I pressed the cam back on the splines of the tube... But I've got terrible luck. I purchased a new 1 so she'll be down til next weekend
And then there were 4... The unpleasant & hard part is done.
She looks kinda sad... Just sittin there in jackstands w/ the frontend all apart.
More to come this wk...
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And then there were 4... The unpleasant & hard part is done.
She looks kinda sad... Just sittin there in jackstands w/ the frontend all apart.
More to come this wk...
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Daaammmnn, you got lucky getting your old cam bolts out! Did my 01 bushings last month 3 of 4 required a sawzall. You made a smart decision to not use plastic sleave, I'm surprised they even sell something like that.
All Runners have the center mount for Rack, I don't recall if Tim's video mentions that the rack hoses have a clamp mounted inside of shock tower.
Follow hoses back from rack into engine bay you'll see it one bolt. By removing the hose clamp it gives you enough slack to move rack out of the way to get that left rear bolt out and in. If you haven't removed this clamp try it,
might help putting your rack back together and in place.
All Runners have the center mount for Rack, I don't recall if Tim's video mentions that the rack hoses have a clamp mounted inside of shock tower.
Follow hoses back from rack into engine bay you'll see it one bolt. By removing the hose clamp it gives you enough slack to move rack out of the way to get that left rear bolt out and in. If you haven't removed this clamp try it,
might help putting your rack back together and in place.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
LOL, you didn't wash your girls bottom, maybe that's why she looking sad.
Haaaa! No point in washing her until I get the oil leak fixed. In regards to the rack, I was watching another 1 of Tims videos about replacing the rack bushings & he mentions that bolt on the frame holding the hoses. Naturally, I swiftly regretted my decision to remove the rack after hearing that. Oh well... It gives me a chance to clean things up behind the diff a little. God that oily gunk drives me nuts.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
No Regrats - heard that before? Let us know how getting it back together turns out. May come in handy knowing it can be done that way.
I love it when parts show up 3 days than originally scheduled. We're about to be back in business.
Summit Racing has some really fast shipping. And a lot of box for very little product.
After getting this new cam sub assembly in, I'm really glad I decided to get a new 1. It would appear that Toyota applies some sort of adhesive to the splines of the tube. $19 is cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. I'm glad my others weren't seized up though.
I'm going to get this back together & possibly get my tires mounted & an alignment done on Friday.
Summit Racing has some really fast shipping. And a lot of box for very little product.
After getting this new cam sub assembly in, I'm really glad I decided to get a new 1. It would appear that Toyota applies some sort of adhesive to the splines of the tube. $19 is cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. I'm glad my others weren't seized up though.
I'm going to get this back together & possibly get my tires mounted & an alignment done on Friday.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
:reddance::reddance::reddance::reddance:
psraff
New member
Can I ask what part numbers those cam bolts are on Summit Racing? I need to replace one and was going to have it on hand. SPC appears to use plastic inserts and the other option I saw was Moog.I love it when parts show up 3 days than originally scheduled. We're about to be back in business.
Summit Racing has some really fast shipping. And a lot of box for very little product.
After getting this new cam sub assembly in, I'm really glad I decided to get a new 1. It would appear that Toyota applies some sort of adhesive to the splines of the tube. $19 is cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. I'm glad my others weren't seized up though.
I'm going to get this back together & possibly get my tires mounted & an alignment done on Friday.
Thanks in advance!
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Sorry for any confusion, but the cam sub assembly is a factory part. The Toyota part number is 48409-35050. I got this 1 off eBay, b/c my local dealerships will rape me. I'm sending my SPC's back to Toytec. I'm disappointed that they even sell that garbage.
psraff
New member
Ahhh. Gottcha. Yeah, I was typing that number in at Summit and not getting anything. Our NAPA store wanted $120 for one (not sure if one or set) and they claimed because it was greasable. I called BS.
Thanks for the info.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Why folks always throwing shade at Moog? I do on their LBJ's their cam bolts are heavier duty than OEM and greasable. Just installed on 01 runner alignment guy says they hold up well.
