Definitely replace the rubber line at this age, hard lines you can inspect and see if those need replacement also. If you are lifted, you can use the rear rubber line part # off an older 1st gen 4Runner which is 3-4" longer. Might as well replace the front rubber lines as well since you'll be bleeding the system anyways.
With this job, the only part that is necessary to go OEM are the axle seals. Everything else, a quality aftermarket brand is just as good if you are doing a bulk order off RockAuto. If you buy a Timken axle bearing it's just a rebranded Nachi anyways. The drum I would argue you can get better than OEM by going with a coated unit to protect against rust.
Seals will def be OEM. Will eyeball the lines beforehand to see how they look.
Stick with oem kit for the pins/springs/cups. I had to do my brakes twice because a cup failed due to the shorter length of the pins.
Yes I think I may go OEM on the hardware kits as I friggin hate shit that doesn't fit properly.
I would say in your case with your higher milage I would just replace the shoes themselves and spend your time cleaning and adjusting. With no guarantee that your new axle seal will hold (good chance its the bearing causing the problem) you might end up having to redo one side anyways. The rear brakes suck on these vehicles and the best way to get them to work well is to make sure the adjusters are clean and smooth and it is adjusted to fsm spec. This is one of those jobs where you could ask the dealer to replace every thing with new parts and 1k$ later you would go I guess its better but its hard to tell.
You make a good point, but I'm going to inspect the axle for leaks by looking inside the ABS port sensor hole. First sign of gear oil and I'll pull it and replace the bearing — worst case I figure I'll have to replace the shoes again.
I will thoroughly inspect, clean and lube the adjusters though!
I was in the same situation a few years ago with leaking axle oil on the shoes. I just replaced the seals, shoes, and took the opportunity to extend the diff breather to the fuel fill area. Drained and filled the diff with fresh amsoil (what I had on the shelf).
Cleaned everything else up while it was apart. No problems since.
Oh, having the right tool for the drum brake springs is mighty helpful - "drum brake spring pliers". Mine are so old that they look like none of the google image results, or, they are technically for something else and just happen to work great on those springs.
Thanks for the reminder to do the extended breather mod! Forgot to add that to my list.
X2 on the pins. I cleaned mine and reused them. Some kits will have two different lengths, mine didnt. It had only the short ones, which I wasn't going to trust.
I just did mine last week (first time myself ). Besides the very first spring, everything else was a snap.
Edit: I'm sure you know. .. do only one at a time! So you can look at one while you rebuild the other.
2. I've read one post somewhere some over the counter shoes are missing a hole or slot or something that's needed (don't remember the details, sorry). So if you go that route, inspect and compare before ripping it all apart.
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Yeah will def be doing one side at a time. As for OEM components, my main concern I want shit to work and work the first time. I've spent way too much time screwing with aftermarket junk on various projects – nothing irritates me more than being forced to work with subpar crap that you only realize is subpar when you're right in the middle of a repair.
Get this tool for the washers. It will reduce your swearing by at least 50% money back guaranteed.
Lisle Corporation
I used dorman wheel cylinders, dorman hardware kit, Wagner drums with a black coating, and Wagner shoes and everything seems to work fine. I had this local company make a new stainless steel flex line to replace the rubber line(it's the same stainless lines that wheeler's sells). Then I replaced the hard lines with some NiCopp lines I got from work. The NiCopp comes in a 25 foot roll so you have to bend it and flare it which wasn't too hard(I used most of the roll because I replaced almost every brake line on my 99). Took me a little more than half a day to do the rear and I took my time.
That's dedication to replace all the brake lines! I'll check that tool out too – always more room for tools!
Get a new breather for the axle housing. This is mandatory. I'd also try and go OEM as much as possible. No rust, so just keep all the hardware and if the cylinders aren't leaking, don't touch them.
Since you don't have to worry about rust, just clean everything with brake cleaner.
Get yourself one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11260-...rd_wg=4OCJs&psc=1&refRID=6VHRFE92NBYM4QHMQZNY
Click to open the PDF. It is for a Tundra, but is the same for the 3rd gen. Make sure to grab some 3M brake paste but wear gloves.
1st Gen Toyota Tundra Rear Brake Replacement PDF
Definitely doing the breather mod and most likely OEM for the rest, though I'm still undecided if I want to try to salvage the hardware and drums or just replace.
Hey WeedSmoker..I mean StreetCreaper,
What write up from here or video are you using for this? I want to check & replace the drums on my new axle.
Thanks,
Hahaha – I answer to both!
imp: as for the video I watched, it was this one. It has obnoxious background music but the video seems straight forward. I'm sure I'll watch a few more before I do the work though.
https://youtu.be/r82BLijWuNQ
Looks like [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] needs some Creeper product.
IF the right rear has been leaking for some time, get the old bearing replaced if you plan not to move Jimmy from his present abode for some time. Speaking from experience here.
I personally would not replace the drums. Just take some brake clean and clean them. IF they have grooves in them, get them turned for $30 to $40.
I'm still considering doing the bearing just for good measure – don't really feel like buying a press right now or messing with some shop to do the press work. We'll see I guess, my plate is full with other projects right now so squeezing 4Runner stuff in can be tough.
Everyone complains about how difficult and bad drum brakes are to work on, but I don't think they're that bad. Only take one side apart at a time so you can look back at the other one if needed to know where the springs go. I used a pair of vise grips, I didn't have any fancy brake spring pliers. I also went OEM on the shoes and reused all the hardware. I know with OEM I won't run into any stupid fitment issues.
Make sure to adjust them when you are done. The backing up and slamming on the brakes trick doesn't work on these. (I remember the police being called on my dad and I when I was a child for him doing this late at night after we finished changing the shoes on his Tahoe at the time...)
I think the FSM says it has something to do with pulling the handbrake up and down to adjust the stars back there. This didn't work great for me so I had to manually adjust with a screwdriver. Parking with your handbrake on will keep everything loose and properly adjusted back there too.
Yeah I'd always heard they were a royal pain in the ass, so I never gave them much attention. I was pretty surprised when I saw that video and realized that if one is patient and methodical (I am) – then the drum brakes don't look bad at all.
I hear you on the OEM stuff too. I'm sure there are other quality components I could use – but the big unknown is always 'will they fit?'...
Will def be adjusting everything per spec when finishing up too!
