Inner Tie Rod End: OEM Vs Sankei 555

[extrmsob293]

My 4runner has 235k miles and I think it is time to replace the front suspension components. I'm still debating between OEM vs Sankei 555 ITRE, for the OEM ITRE this is alot of dough ($135 each) and I don't know how long it will lasts. For the Sankei 555 is about ($30 each) and it comes with life time warranty, so I can always switch it out when it goes bad. Instead of paying for $270 for every time the ITRE goes bad and bigger tires and lift will wear the ITRE out even faster. Also someone mentions about aftermarket ITRE doesn't give full droop as the OEM ITRE, can someone clarify this???

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I wouldn't sweat the after market ITRE's too much. Not quite as critical as the OTRE's or LBJ's. That my $0.02 anyway.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I agree with PBR. Use the 555.

I have zero input though on the whole droop thing.

 

[extrmsob293]

I agree with PBR. Use the 555.

I have zero input though on the whole droop thing.

Here is the post

Here is something to consider about the ITRE's.

I just replaced my steering rack with a remanned one which included new ITRE's. The ones that were installed on the new rack were a aftermarket brand.

When it came time to reattach the tie rods to the spindle, I could not get the TRE's to drop far enough to get the outer to bolt into the spindle. I took the ITRE's off and discovered that where it necks down was a lot thicker which means the joint itself had less range of motion than the stock one. My guess is that they made that part thicker because the material they used is not a strong as the OE material and they made up for it but thickening that part of the joint.

Now my truck is lifted and has a longer travel shocks up front with more droop. If your truck is stock, you may not have that problem. I ended up switching out the new ITRE's on the rack for my used OEM ones since they actually worked in my situation and were still tight.

Not saying this will happen to everyone but it definitely seems like the aftermarket manufacturer cut a corner while producing those. Just another reason to go OEM in my opinion.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

If that's the case, but the 555's. Compare them to the ones you're replacing and see if it's an issue. (Doubt it will be)

 

[Neil_R]

I bought NAPA Premium w/lifetime warranty ITREs. Seem to be working quite well so far. Everything else is OEM.

-NR

 

[TheeMikeB]

Another vote for the aftermarket ITRE... that was the only part I didn't use that was OEM on my front end rebuild. I used the NAPA ones also. I have pics of both side by side in my build if you want to check them out.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Another vote for the aftermarket ITRE... that was the only part I didn't use that was OEM on my front end rebuild. I used the NAPA ones also. I have pics of both side by side in my build if you want to check them out.

Same here, I used cheap Duralast ones. They have been fine so far.

OP, you can take a look at your ITRE's and estimate if you think you are reaching full droop at all. Really unless you are rock crawling, you probably aren't going to reach full droop anyway, so I think this is a pretty minor concern.

The ITRE's are ridiculously overpriced, I don't know why.

 

[extrmsob293]

I will give sankei 555 a try to see how it goes, but oem LBJ and OTR is a must !!!

 

[nissanh]

I'll avoid 555. These won't last.
Remember one member went an extra mile to compare OEM and 555 ball joints. He reported the 555 ball has some scratch marks when turned multiple times by hand while no scratch marks on the OEM ball.

That's my advice.

 

[Gerdo]

Personally, Spend the extra money on all OE parts for steering and balljoints.
The factory parts last 200k. Do you want to find out that you should have bought OE while driving down the road? Go OE and don't worry for another 200k.

 

[extrmsob293]

I'll avoid 555. These won't last.
Remember one member went an extra mile to compare OEM and 555 ball joints. He reported the 555 ball has some scratch marks when turned multiple times by hand while no scratch marks on the OEM ball.

That's my advice.

I saw that post as well I went to compare the OEM vs Napa, Autozone, Kragen LBJ and they dont articulate very well, it takes alot of force just to move the ball around

 

[extrmsob293]

Personally, Spend the extra money on all OE parts for steering and balljoints.
The factory parts last 200k. Do you want to find out that you should have bought OE while driving down the road? Go OE and don't worry for another 200k.

Thats why I got the OEM LBJ and OTR but for ITR they don't last that long since my vehicle is lifted and has bigger tires. I don't want to pay $250 every year for ITRE ound:ound:

 

[txbonds]

I've got some brand new 3rd gen Proforged inner tie rods I'm not using since I ended up replacing the whole rack. I'll let them go cheap if your interested. Figured I would toss it out there as I don't know what to do with them.

Info:

Proforged - 2001 Toyota 4Runner

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-104-10495/overview/make/toyota/model/4runner

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/148965-anyone-hear-proforged-parts.html



.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I'll avoid 555. These won't last.
Remember one member went an extra mile to compare OEM and 555 ball joints. He reported the 555 ball has some scratch marks when turned multiple times by hand while no scratch marks on the OEM ball.

That's my advice.

Yeah, this is the thread, right? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...tos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings.html

I wouldn't call that "going the extra mile to compare to OEM", he took it out of the box and moved it by hand, not much to it. I don't think that was very valid testing. The reality is that 555/Sankei appears to be a higher quality aftermarket product when compared to most of the US aftermarket stuff. Not OEM quality most likely, but overall good. I think they have gotten some bad press here because some crappier companies have used 555 castings in rebuild parts that failed. Don't just say that they won't last though.

I saw that post as well I went to compare the OEM vs Napa, Autozone, Kragen LBJ and they dont articulate very well, it takes alot of force just to move the ball around

As above, don't judge the part by how smoothly it moves in your hand. For stuff like this, tighter is probably better. If it moves smoothly and easily in your hand, then when it gets a few thousand pounds loaded on it by the car, it will probably be a bit loose. Don't worry, your steering rack and suspension will have NO problem moving the joint.

Also, they probably need some breaking in time to get the grease spread around properly and for everything to lube up right.

Thats why I got the OEM LBJ and OTR but for ITR they don't last that long since my vehicle is lifted and has bigger tires. I don't want to pay $250 every year for ITRE ound:ound:

I don't think you should be replacing these every year anyway. Lots of guys here have the maximum lift (around 3") and larger tires, and I don't remember hearing them say they break ITRE's all the time. In fact, I don't really remember anyone breaking ITRE's prematurely.

 

[JayRolla]

Just wanted too add to this for future referense. I installed a new rack. It had aftermarket ITRE's. They failed in a month and where super loose. So I went to Napa and bought one of the cheapos. I installed a cheap Napa $40 on one side of the rack and my old 240k mileage OEM on the other side. After a few months the aftermarket ITRE is shot. Im sure its from droop when offroading. Before I took her to the trails it was solid. Noticed it loosened up after a few trips. Also the less droop of the ITRE seems to have broken the seal on the new rack. The side with the OEM ITRE is dry but the side with the non oem is leaking fluid.

The old OEM ITRE is still doing good. If it was me and you use your rig a lot of trail always go OEM.

 

[KidVermicious]

This is interesting, because the last time I followed a similar conversation on IH8MUD they were all about the Sankei/555 steering parts.

 

[JayRolla]

This is interesting, because the last time I followed a similar conversation on IH8MUD they were all about the Sankei/555 steering parts.

Well when I went to get the Sankei/555 it was $95 from Napa. I just looked on there website and same thing. So I went with the cheap brand, cant remember what it was but it was not Sankei/555. At $95 I would just get the $135 oem.

Looks like you can get the 555 for around $75 online or other places. But then again the Moog is cheaper and some say its just a 555. All I know is 3 non OEMs have failed on me and my tires where not happy. My 240k mileage OEM is still solid. Just saying for some it may not be worth the risk. But I also didnt get the 555.

 

[snivilous]

That's good to know, I've gone through 3 sets of inners in a year, presumably from going fast. I don't know if I want to go to a full heim setup though since I think the inner tie rods damp some of the energy going into the rack since they are packed with grease but I don't know.

 

[KidVermicious]

I bought Moogs for my 86, one had a 555 casting. They were theoretically new not rebuilt, so maybe the same supplier to each? I dunno.