Installed a ProCharger

N

NorthPark

New member
So I installed a ProCharger over the past two weekends and started it up last night for the first time

It's not nearly as loud at idle as everyone makes it seem. The kit install is relatively easy except for it being very cramped around the head unit.

I still have a few issues to sort out, mainly the inlet is touching the radiator no matter what I do. There is also a bit of a crimp in the outlet elbow that I need to sort out.

Just to make it clear - the ProCharger WILL NOT work with a CSF radiator. This sent me scrambling in the middle of the install to try and source an oem radiator. The pics of the ProCharger setup always show this area covered by the radiator cover, it's not very obvious how close the inlet is to the radiator. I spoke to ProCharger but couldn't get any answers as to how much clearance there should be with the radiator or how well this has fit in other vehicles. This CSF issue would have been a deal breaker for me had I known ahead of time. The whole point of this setup was to keep the temps as low as possible as I live in AZ - another reason why I skipped the mag.

This pic is before I shaved about 8mm off of the face of the inlet (it still touches)

qpPNYBo.jpg


As this is an off-road desert vehicle, I'm not very comfortable with things rubbing up against the radiator

Anyway it's hot as hell outside and it was just started up late last night, it'll be a few days before I can answer on the power delivery
 
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The head unit will need to be removed to access the front drivers area of the engine bay, but this takes about 20 minutes and is relatively easy as it's a self contained unit. I installed a power steering cooler as well and now have to remove the head unit to fix something with the new drivers side hard line.

IbXUtzY.jpg
 
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nice. thats annoying it rubs the radiator. stock radiator is fine, did you also add an external trans cooler? thatd be on my list before a radiator simply for the cruises up the 87.
 
honda250xtitan said:
nice. thats annoying it rubs the radiator. stock radiator is fine, did you also add an external trans cooler? thatd be on my list before a radiator simply for the cruises up the 87.
Click to expand...

I have a b&m w/ fan and also a radiator style going in with a thermostat bypass. I'll most likely install them on the passenger side from the way it's looking. I bought some aluminum flat bar that I'm hoping to use for brackets
 
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Is this a kit or something you fabbed up ? A centrifugal blower wouldn't be my first choice unless you put a very small pulley to bring boost on low. Also how are you handling tune ? I see race truck and just curious if this is steetable or some one off you did and have a aftermarket PCM.

Thanks
 
TurboX said:
Is this a kit or something you fabbed up ? A centrifugal blower wouldn't be my first choice unless you put a very small pulley to bring boost on low. Also how are you handling tune ? I see race truck and just curious if this is steetable or some one off you did and have a aftermarket PCM.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Procharger sells a bolt on kit for these. Tuning is probably done with a reflash like vftuner.
 
Bmnorm2 said:
Any updates [MENTION=146154]NorthPark[/MENTION]?
Click to expand...

The inlet and the oem radiator are still rubbing, but I started it up over the weekend. The idle sound is interesting but it's not all that bad.

Right now it's throwing rich codes (p0172/p0175).

Since I did have issues with the CSF radiator, I decided to follow the book 100% and in doing so I tossed in the fresh k&n filter.

I'm hoping just the maf is dirty or gunked up by the filter. I double checked the vacuum lines but I'll run a smoke machine to verify.

short term fuel trim on both banks is -20%. This was the first start up and I had vcf scanner going, it didn't seem to let me verify the fuel pressure (no fp sensors?) so I'll get my electric fuel pressure gauge setup asap.

Progress is slow as it was 110f in my garage over the weekend, so I can only spent an hour or two at a time in there.
 
Okay so new update.

I cleaned my MAF last night due to the odd idling and now it won't start at all. It cranks but that's about it. No fuses blown under the dash or engine bay that I can find. No difference with the maf disconnected.

ODBii is no longer readable by any of my scanners so I can't pull any codes. This is new along with the no starting.

Nothing changed other than just cleaning the maf with crc cleaner.

I did find that my (ProCharger provided) positive battery terminal cracked in half and was loose on the battery. It was probably loose when I had started it up, hopefully this didn't fry something. I want to run higher quality cables anyway so these were only there just to get this running.

my odyssey 34r was sitting on a trickle charger this entire time and is fully charged.
 
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1: Odd hum coming from the engine bay, looks like rear of the engine. I can't figure out where the sound is coming from, but removing fuse 14 ECU-IG NO.2 silences it. I'm not sure when this started.

Here's a vid:

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

2: Still cannot communicate with the ECU via ODB. It suddenly stopped working after a scan. My scanners can pull codes from other devices, just not the main ECU.

3: Got my fuel pressure gauge hooked up. It hits 35 PSI when cranking. Doesn't seem to drain all that fast.

This happened over night, it was starting yesterday and throwing P0172/P0175 codes. I cleaned the MAF and then this all happened. I'm going to find a MM and check the voltages on the ODB port, otherwise thinking about maybe pulling a spark plug just to take a look.
 
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Odb port voltages


Pins
4-16 12.07
4-7 11.30

Same results when using pin 5 as ground.

I’m starting to suspect a battery issue. It tests ok but rapidly loses voltage. The battery charger says it needs a full charge after it had a full charge yesterday
 
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