Installing a new fuel line on 95 SR5 V6

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1. How do you incert into place the new OEM metal fuel line that runs from the tank to the filter?

The parking brake cable has been moved out of the way.
The fuel filter and casing is still on the truck.
The gas tank has been removed, sending unit and pump replaced.
The fuel line from the tank to the filter has been removed. ( it broke on the way out)



Coming out didn't work too well, so I was hoping there was a trick to get this thing in place so we can start putting it all bad together.
 
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scratch that

Well I waited a week for the new fuel line....its not the right one. wrong in very way. I can see that this fuel issue is one of those problem areas that is taboo.

I'm now on step 58, considering just running a flex fuel line from the tank to wherever I can hook it to, preferably before the engine....but as this whole operation seems to be cursed, I'll take anything that will get the truck back on the road.

:redbrick::redbrick::redbrick::redbrick::redbrick::redbrick::redbrick::redbrick:
 
If it's the one I'm thinking of, much easier with the tank down and out. Getting it up and around the drive train is challenging. I was told by the guy at the dealer, that some of those pieces have been discontinued, and you need to modify truck units to fit(ie a couple different bends in places, get pipe bender). Finding people at dealers who know these old trucks is becoming tough as well. Best of luck with it.
regards
 
Totally!

I am going to run rubber fuel line, my biggest problem now is the AN to metric cluster F&$#k.

It has been the most frustrating automotive operation i have ever been around. All the parts stores, local, and online only talk British standard, even though you would think that after 30 years of Toyota being in the US market and making cars that last 300,000 miles, that you could get a 14mm fuel connector without spending 12 hours on the Google looking for a part that likely will not fit when it arrives.
All the info about fuel line sizes and the conversions are under a "fog of war" cloak for toyota. The filter itself requires two sizes of fittings, but I can't get any info on them. I know i need about 8 ft of 14mm male to 14mm male hose to get from the top of the tank fitting to the filter, then i need whatever comes out of the filter to pair up with a male male fitting that is some american size.
 
fuel hose

Scratch all that poop........rubber high pressure hose ans hose clamps will work and the pressure isnt that high anyway. might need to get some fittings that are threaded on each end to clamp hoses too.

good luck
JOE:hiding:
 
got it running, backtogether....dead. :(

I replaced the fuel pump, and the line got the tank hooked up, and the truck turned over and ran. One minor leak at the old fitting past the filter, but I tightened it up.

I raised the tank up, bolted it on and the gaurd, put everything back together, and nothing....... truck will not start.

This morning I went from under the back seat, and hooked up current to the fuel pump. It works. but when I plug in the trucks electric connector, and turn the key, no pump. no sound.

What would make the truck not send current to the fuel pump?after all of this?:hello:
 
Check for current in the circuit, maybe a broken wire from the process. You might check the EFI relay(common failure item).
regards
 
checking pump

I lowered the tank to check the wires. The pump works, but not when plugged in and the ignition is turned on. I did some reading, I opened the test terminal and tried jumping the FP to the B+ I didn't get anything. then I connected the FP terminal straight to the battery. The pump started and the truck turned over, ran for a bit and then cut out. I repeated this step three times with the same results.

Now, I have noticed that i'm leaking a small drop amount a fuel where the new injector hose is paired back to the metal line between the fuel filter and the canister in the engine compartment.

My main questions:
1. is the wiring from the tank and fuel pump in the rear end ok? Can I put that mess back together?
2. since the FP to battery worked but not the FP jump to B+, what did I prove there?
3. Are there other relays or components that need to be checked besides the EFI relay? Ones inside the 4runner near fuse boxes?

Since this all started with a broken fuel sending line, and now is about keeping the current going to the fuel pump, am I missing something that needs to be reset?
 
yes.... wonderful

And....

PS, homedepo and Lowes will be huge let downs for any of this projects as they do not carry any metric or any brass that is flared..
 

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