Installing an aftermarket FUEL GAUGE

Im getting it right now, to stop breaking my head with this oem krap...

Tks for your info man very helpfull ill spread the info, there are so many people with same problem.

Cheers!

Nice thing about the UG is that you can calibrate it and you can check the calibration as you drive to refine it. IMO it is as accurate as it needs to be - my current "rule of thumb" is that if I am on the highway, I start looking for a gas station when I get to 100 miles DTE. If I'm in town or someplace where there are lots of gas stations, I might let it get to 25 miles, but any less than that and I get nervous.

FYI, if you don't like suction cups (I don't) an inverted T mount for a satellite radio receiver will work, too. My DD Mazda has the sat mount stuck to the dash and it's much cleaner looking than the suction cup.

The included UG suction cup is pretty good but sometimes it can be difficult to get it to "stick." And if you have a drastic change in the weather (gets extremely cold or hot or humid) it will fall off.
Ask me how I know that. ;):
 
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Nice thing about the UG is that you can calibrate it and you can check the calibration as you drive to refine it. IMO it is as accurate as it needs to be - my current "rule of thumb" is that if I am on the highway, I start looking for a gas station when I get to 100 miles DTE. If I'm in town or someplace where there are lots of gas stations, I might let it get to 25 miles, but any less than that and I get nervous.

FYI, if you don't like suction cups (I don't) an inverted T mount for a satellite radio receiver will work, too. My DD Mazda has the sat mount stuck to the dash and it's much cleaner looking than the suction cup.

The included UG suction cup is pretty good but sometimes it can be difficult to get it to "stick." And if you have a drastic change in the weather (gets extremely cold or hot or humid) it will fall off.
Ask me how I know that. ;):

I just ordered yesterday, i tried the key trick but didnt workd. So im going with the gauge for sure. Will be posting pictures and comments. tks again!
 
I just ordered yesterday, i tried the key trick but didnt workd. So im going with the gauge for sure. Will be posting pictures and comments. tks again!

Glad to help. It's definitely the most cost-effective solution to the 3rd gen 4runner's most annoying weakness.

You'll need a GPS with a trip meter to calibrate it. You have to calibrate the distance setting first, and then calibrate the MPG settings.

It's also nice when your 4runner throws the occasional CEL as you can find out what the code is and then reset it right then and there.
 
Glad to help. It's definitely the most cost-effective solution to the 3rd gen 4runner's most annoying weakness.

You'll need a GPS with a trip meter to calibrate it. You have to calibrate the distance setting first, and then calibrate the MPG settings.

It's also nice when your 4runner throws the occasional CEL as you can find out what the code is and then reset it right then and there.

Im trying to setup this thing not lucky yet lol
 
Has anyone tried replacing the #3 dash panel printed circuit board?

Does anyone know whereI can buy the PCB for less than $200?
Original price was $22--then $55 and then ooops--Toy USA no longer carries it but for 220USD you can get one from the manufacturer.

I have replaced the sender and suction tube--problem has changed but is not fixed.
 
Grenvilleter----I am willing to try that---buuuttt! Is that a visible crack in the joint? Can conductive tape similar to what is used on some alarms work? I have an electronics soldering pen (low temp) and irritated enough to try it. Like, what can go wrong.

edited for typo
 
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A cold solder joint is not always visible. Forgive me as I have never seen the said cct. board , but general rules apply. a fine gauge rosin core solder and ideally, a professional grade soldering iron with a fine tip.
The most likely culprits will be anything that may draw a little more current. A larger terminal in the pcb.

The PCB's were 'solder bathed' when they were assembled but sometimes where a higher current item makes connection on the cct board, the thin solder connection from the bath cannot handle the current and gets warm and repeated cycles causes the junction to crack.

Short answer, sometimes you can see the crack and sometimes not. If you can see the crack, chances are it will have complete failure and not be intermittent or act strangely.
Big blobs of solder on each terminal is not good and if there are active components on the board ( diodes, transistors, IC ccts), they should be protected from too much heat via heat sinks etc. SOP for older electronics boards.

But... with nothing to lose, a careful hand and proper tools, I think it could be worth the try.
Make sure you use a well 'tinned' low watt iron and be careful not to hold the heat on too long or you could lift traces.
 
I use an ultragauge also to make up for my intermittent fuel gauge. Im not crazy about it. I have it setup and calibrated great, but you have to remember to reset to full every time you fill up. I have forgotten to reset my fuel level when I leave the gas station, and it's too inconvenient once you realize a half hour down the road that you don't actual know precisely how much fuel you have. I get weary about partial fill ups too. I cant justify topping off the tank when I'm here at school, so I have to take the time to set it up for a partial fill up.

Its a valid and super accurate way to gauge your fuel, but it wont work for the forgetful person.
 

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