Intrested in a Sub
- Thread starter A10MileHusker
- Start date
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Thanks for the reply. $425 is a little too steep for me.
Here is some additional info:
P/N: 6471435904B1
Price: $373.16
I'm pretty sure that this is the exterior panel in grey
P/N: 861500W040
Price: $330.91
This is listed as speaker assy w/box, which I interpret to be the box that holds the sub, along with a subwoofer
Now it's getting expensive....
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r3dh3ad84
New member
So nightshade I have a few questions: You said you have the stock amp supplying power to all other speakers EXCEPT the new sub you installed correct? Did you have to hook all these speakers up to it- or am I right in assuming it is done from the factory? Next- for your new amp- how did you get an RCA feed from the stock radio? I have seen these "splice in kits" that will take your reg speaker wire and tap into it to create RCA wires for you- is this what you used? Because other than that all you have to run is your power wire...Thanks man- I dig your setup and I would like to do the same thing.
SilverBullet01
Senior Member
its a little more, but this thing is amazing
Toyota 4Runner Stealthbox by JL Audio
jl audio is my favorite company by far, and they make quality stuff. but it will cost you more.
in contrast, if you want, you are able to hook up a jl amp to a factory stereo no problems, so you would be able to keep it looking stock.
the amps they have don't need a remote power switch, they sense when power is coming in from the audio cables and turn themselves on. here is a wiring diagram from jl to help explain http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_11.pdf
Toyota 4Runner Stealthbox by JL Audio
jl audio is my favorite company by far, and they make quality stuff. but it will cost you more.
in contrast, if you want, you are able to hook up a jl amp to a factory stereo no problems, so you would be able to keep it looking stock.
the amps they have don't need a remote power switch, they sense when power is coming in from the audio cables and turn themselves on. here is a wiring diagram from jl to help explain http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_11.pdf
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
You can use the Pioneer, may just not push the sub as well as the higher watt JL. The auto on feature isn't a huge deal, it means running one extra wire (the turn-on wire). You'll need to tap into something that has power when the vehicle is on. I'm about to do an amp install and will use either the turn on wire going into the stock JBL amp or maybe the power wire for the DC outlet. Either way, not a huge deal. Also, I have a JL J2 250 watt amp and it doesn't have the auto sensing turn on (so I've been told, just got it in today).
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
For those interested, I'll be doing something similar to nightshade. I'm putting in a JL amp (under front passenger seat) and 8w1v2 sub (in stock sub location). I plan to do a full write up with tons of pics/info. If you guys want anything in particular (pics, measurements, etc), PM me what you'd like and I'll try to get it. I wish I would've saw this before ordering my stuff. Everywhere I've read had said 4" is the max depth for the sub, and that made me lean away from the CVR (4 1/4" mounting depth). Looks like it may be just over 4", which could have opened up more options. Anyhow, all my stuff is sitting at home awaiting install, which hopefully will be done this weekend.
r3dh3ad84
New member
Where does everyone tap into a turn on wire? I have some aux offroad lights that I have connected directly into the battery- which allows me to leave them on when the ignition is off (not what I want- could result in leaving them on and coming out to a dead battery).. Any input or photos will help.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Probably the best and easiest for that would be the fuse panel below the steering wheel. There should be an ACC fuse, this will work with the ignition. There should be a diagram on the fuse box or if nothing else owner's manual so you can find the location of it. Get a fuse tap, find that fuse, run the wires and you're good to go.
