Hellamatic
New member
Sh!t McGit, buddy, you guys definitely got hammered. I went for a brief run on Sunday, and there's a few of our local spots in rough shape too. Not too terrible as long as you stay away from the larger watercourses tho
Intruder's build and off road pics thread
- Thread starter Intruder
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Intruder
New member
Love em. Way better traction off road and about the same on road. There are certain spots where I used to have to turn on ATRAC or the locker when I had the Duratracs but with the MTRs I just crawl through them. Way better in any kind of mud since the tread voids are larger so they self clean better. The only downside is that the MTRs will definitely not do well in winter up here so I'll have to get a set of dedicated winter tires, probably Geolanders or something.
omaguz
New member
Cool looking 4th Gen!!!
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Intruder
New member
Well, it was a truck day today. Replaced my hawse with a roller fairlead, put the sunroof insert back on my rack in prep for the tent going back on tomorrow, then finally put this thing on a year after I got it.
While it was on the rack we discovered a rip in my driver's side steering rack boot along with a missing clip, a missing clip from my driver's side cv boot, and that the tie rod on the passenger's side was loose. Tie rod was tightened but of course the clips Toyota puts on the boots are single use only so I have to get three clips and one boot now.
While it was on the rack we discovered a rip in my driver's side steering rack boot along with a missing clip, a missing clip from my driver's side cv boot, and that the tie rod on the passenger's side was loose. Tie rod was tightened but of course the clips Toyota puts on the boots are single use only so I have to get three clips and one boot now.
eddiebx
New member
Well, it was a truck day today. Replaced my hawse with a roller fairlead, put the sunroof insert back on my rack in prep for the tent going back on tomorrow, then finally put this thing on a year after I got it.
While it was on the rack we discovered a rip in my driver's side steering rack boot along with a missing clip, a missing clip from my driver's side cv boot, and that the tie rod on the passenger's side was loose. Tie rod was tightened but of course the clips Toyota puts on the boots are single use only so I have to get three clips and one boot now.
What do you think caused all that havoc on the boots and claimps, trail debris hitting it?
Stupid question but, can you still jack it up from the differential once you install the BB skid on it? Or does that need to come off before doing so?
453030
New member
I can answer the second part, yes, no problem to jack right under the BB diff skid.
Intruder
New member
Yeah, I suspect a rock or branches from a fallen tree.
The skid sits very flush to the diff so I don't see that it would be a problem. It's the same 3/16ths steel as Bud's other skids so it has some beef to it.
eddiebx
New member
I was hoping this would be the case, thanks very much for the clarification guys!
Intruder
New member
One thing I forgot to mention. When I took the factory skids off last year they were severely dented and even broken in spots from a year of off roading. Now granted, that was my first year of off roading so there was inexperience involved, but now I just tackle tougher obstacles so my skids still see the same amount of abuse. When the truck was on the rack yesterday I ran my hands down all the BudBuilt skids to see how they were. No dents or gouges in them at all, just a lot of missing paint and very fine surface grooves that you couldn't measure the width or depth of with a ruler. The 3/16ths steel that Bud makes his skids out of may be a little heavy and reduce the fuel economy a bit, but I'm positive I'd be paying a lot more than that in repairs without them. Last year on Whipsaw I hit a rock that was hidden in a muddy puddle with the front skid that stopped the truck dead in its tracks from about 10 km/h. There's not a single mark in the skid from that, but I'll bet the factory skid would've completely collapsed and possibly sheared off entirely.
Here's a couple crappy out of focus cell phone pics of the factory ones just before and right after they came off to give you an idea (I'm not posting one of the BudBuilts right now because they need paint badly).
Here's a couple crappy out of focus cell phone pics of the factory ones just before and right after they came off to give you an idea (I'm not posting one of the BudBuilts right now because they need paint badly).
jangoforhire
New member
Intruder
New member
I am. The design of the ARB bumper makes it so that if you're doing an angle pull with the hawse the rope can rub the edges of the bumper. If you go to Viking's website they say they tried to pinch a synthetic rope with a roller and they couldn't do it. As long as the roller was never used for steel it's fine to use for synthetic.
Check out number 4.
Frequently Asked Questions
Intruder
New member
Headed back to Whipsaw.
I'm running a Northstar deep cycle so I'm not worried that way. What's this Powerlet? I've got the fridge plugged into the 120V outlet right now, which I realize means I have to leave the keys in for the fridge to run. Does the Powerlet bypass needing the keys in Acc or On position?
Jeremy556
New member
Whichever one you plug into requires ignition on in factory configuration, and the 12v outlet can't supply the amperage needed to start the compressor reliably. You are going to need to run a lead from the battery to power the fridge.
The standard cigarette plug outlet, basically sucks. The Powerlet Outlet is a better version of it, which has a locking connection which will prevent the compressor from short cycling over bumps. If you pull the red plastic pieces off the ARB cord, you will see the Powerlet connector. IIRC, they call it a DIN connector in most parts of the world, but the easiest and fastest way to get it in NA is to order from Powerlet.
Also, keep in mind the ARB fridge is designed to run on 12v, so running it on the inverter is extra inefficient.
The standard cigarette plug outlet, basically sucks. The Powerlet Outlet is a better version of it, which has a locking connection which will prevent the compressor from short cycling over bumps. If you pull the red plastic pieces off the ARB cord, you will see the Powerlet connector. IIRC, they call it a DIN connector in most parts of the world, but the easiest and fastest way to get it in NA is to order from Powerlet.
Also, keep in mind the ARB fridge is designed to run on 12v, so running it on the inverter is extra inefficient.
Intruder
New member
Interesting. I'm really loathe to run wire all the way from the battery (front driver's side) to the outlet (rear passenger side). Did you run it where the factory wiring already goes? Unfortunately I'm leaving early Friday morning and there don't seem to be any Powerlet dealers around here, though I could call a couple of the bike shops to see if they carry them. Otherwise I'll set the fridge to the low battery voltage setting and hope for the best.
Jeremy556
New member
Yea, it'll run OK if you set the battery protection to low - the other settings will trip when the compressor starts because of the voltage drop.
I ran 4 wires to the back for future projects. Went from my fuse block on the driver's side, across to the passenger side, through an existing grommet, then under the door sills with the factory wiring.
Titanpat57
Senior Member
I would definitely run a dedicated line (at least #10...#8 would be better) right through the firewall, down the sills, and to the b ack. Do the Antman "hidden" tray mod, to gain access to the wheel well. If you find a good quality, 15-20 amp rated 12v plug (Blue Sea from West Marine) and wire it direct.
If you want to run an in line ATC fuse that be better. Piece of cake..
If you want to run an in line ATC fuse that be better. Piece of cake..
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