Intruder's build and off road pics thread

It's the wire that connects to the speed sensor. Skid control sensor wire is just Toyota's name for the part. Gives all the info that controls VSC, TRAC, and ABS plus you can't get into 4wd without it.
 
It's the wire that connects to the speed sensor. Skid control sensor wire is just Toyota's name for the part. Gives all the info that controls VSC, TRAC, and ABS plus you can't get into 4wd without it.

When you get it all done, get back out in the snow and take some awesome pictures like you do....Thanks, carry on
 
Hey Intruder, sorry to keep being paranoid and :deadhorse:, but may I ask you, do you recall where the tear in the boot was on the ball joint?

I just installed my LR UCAs and noticed that the bottom lip of the ball joint seals against the flat part of the spindle, and I was wondering if I am to put any kind of lube or grease on that sealing surface? (I think it rotates along that surface when you turn the wheel left and right???) Before installing the new ball joint, I just cleaned off the spindle surface and that was it.

I am wondering this because I noticed that when I pulled off my old factory UCAs, there was some kind of greasy film all over that area, but I am not sure if that was just the factory balljoint lube leaking out, lol. It seemed more like a clear oily film as opposed to a thick ball joint grease, so that kind of made me wonder if maybe Toyota applied something else to that area from the factory?
 
Hey Intruder, sorry to keep being paranoid and :deadhorse:, but may I ask you, do you recall where the tear in the boot was on the ball joint?

Can't say for sure where it was on the ball joint that failed since the boot could've been torn when it separated, but on the other boot it was torn right below the top ring that holds the boot on.

I just installed my LR UCAs and noticed that the bottom lip of the ball joint seals against the flat part of the spindle, and I was wondering if I am to put any kind of lube or grease on that sealing surface? (I think it rotates along that surface when you turn the wheel left and right???) Before installing the new ball joint, I just cleaned off the spindle surface and that was it.

I'm not aware of any sort of grease that you're supposed to put on that and I don't recall there being any mention of it in the installation instructions. Best I could suggest is to contact SPC directly. They seem to respond within 24 hours, which is pretty decent.
 
Winter wheeling is here.


DSC_2126.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2135.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2150.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2165.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2166.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2191.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2216.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2236.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2290.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2295.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2305.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_2312.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr
 
How did the Nokians handle compared to all of the MTs in the group? They are on my short list (w/ the DuraTracs) and I need to pull the trigger shorty.

By the way, great photos.
 
How did the Nokians handle compared to all of the MTs in the group? They are on my short list (w/ the DuraTracs) and I need to pull the trigger shorty.

By the way, great photos.

Totally depends on what you're going to do with them. On winter roads, the Nokians ate the others for breakfast. I was in 2Hi the whole way to the trailhead while they were in 4Hi. On the trail in hard packed snow and ice the Rotiivas were a lot better than the MT/Rs and MTZs and slightly better than the Duratracs. In deep snow the MT/Rs and MTZs did better though I never got stuck or had to be recovered.

I run MT/Rs in the summer and the Nokians for winter, which for me is the better combination. I had Duratracs and I'll probably never buy them again for my purposes. They were great the first winter and terrible the second, and on the trail they don't self-clean in mud or deep snow well enough.
 
Totally depends on what you're going to do with them. On winter roads, the Nokians ate the others for breakfast. I was in 2Hi the whole way to the trailhead while they were in 4Hi. On the trail in hard packed snow and ice the Rotiivas were a lot better than the MT/Rs and MTZs and slightly better than the Duratracs. In deep snow the MT/Rs and MTZs did better though I never got stuck or had to be recovered.

I run MT/Rs in the summer and the Nokians for winter, which for me is the better combination. I had Duratracs and I'll probably never buy them again for my purposes. They were great the first winter and terrible the second, and on the trail they don't self-clean in mud or deep snow well enough.

At this point I'm looking for the best all-around bang for my buck. I traded in a 2012 Rubicon for the 4runner that the wife just loves. I've always run MTs in the past but this time around I want a tire that can handle the on and off road duties here in the Northwest and still be safe for her and the baby when she is driving in inclement weather. I can't afford two sets of tires at this point and thus far the Nokians, Duratracs, and Cooper ST Maxx are looking like my best options.
 
The Nokians are great in snow and ice and don't make anywhere near as much noise as the Duratracs or a true MT. I doubt they'd work well for the rock crawling I do in the summer, but for light off roading they'd probably be fine.
 
The winter trails around here open on December 1st so a group of us went out to do an inventory - check out what changed since last year, take pictures and gps coordinates of all obstacles, etc.

The day started out well enough with the only event being an FJ on KM2s couldn't make it up an icy hill so he had to be towed up.


DSC_2390.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_0092.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

I really do get to wheel with some pretty cool Toyotas.


DSC_2404.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

Then later on when we split up into pairs the real fun started. I was straddling a deep rut when one of my wheels slipped into it. So I went from being completely level to very off camber in two seconds.


DSC_0093.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr


DSC_0094.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

Now that doesn't look too bad but I couldn't climb back out of the rut and when I tried going forward in it I got high centered. So out comes the winch and tried to pull myself out of the rut that way. After I was told to stop winching because two of my wheels were in the air I snapped this from the driver's seat.


DSC_0096.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

We finally got my driver's side out of the rut and I decided to put my passenger side in and drive out that way. So now I'm at this angle.


DSC_0097.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

Got out of it but not before scraping all the paint off the sides of the bump outs on my sliders. Also managed to whack my front bumper in another rut later on. After these pics we ran out of light so I didn't stop to take any more.
 

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