IPF 968 wiring help

[narwhal]

So, I'm finally getting around to wiring up my IPF 968s and I want to make sure I'm doing this right. A few questions:

1. Can I share the ground for the battery terminal (green circle) with the relay mount? Can I use that same ground for the lights and/or relay? Is the red circled screw an acceptable ground location?





2. This set of wires connects the relay to the switch using the two black wires. The yellow wire is supposed to be used to connect the IPFs to the high beams. I want to use a Toyota fog light switch to control the IPFs. What do I do with the yellow wire?




3. To connect the switch harness to the the Toyota switch, I need to cut off the IPF switch, crimp the wires into disconnects, and connect to the switch, correct? I have red, black, and white wires. Which prong goes with which color?





4. What's the best way to run the wires through the firewall?

Thanks in advance. Wiring is clearly not my forte.

P.S. Here are a couple pages I've been referencing so far for anyone who uses this post in the future with their own wiring needs.
Toyota OEM Fog Light Switch
TTORA - ...ving/Fog Lamps - Faq

 

[attitudeofgratitud]

Why not wire them to the OE plugs that your original lights used. The IPF 55w bulbs only draw about about 5 amps. Your factory wiring and fuse is sufficient for that.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Read this post... I just got done installing my 968's, it should help you out.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/68346-i-found-one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd-8.html#post727688

To answer your questions...

1. see the link, there's pictures..

2. If you want the lights to come on via the factory foglight switch, you'll need to tap that yellow wire into the (+) wire feeding one of the foglights...

3. See my link again... lots of info on the switch. DONT bypass the switch, things won't work so well if you do. I ended up installing mine in the engine bay near the relay. Click it into the ON position and leave it that way... the foglight switch will then control your IPF's. As an extra measure of control, you can always pop the hood and click the IPF switch OFF and that will give you independent control to disable the IPF's, but leave the foglights active.

4. If you do what I advised in #3, you don't have to run wires through the firewall.

PS> Remember that the foglights only work with the lowbeams, so if you wire it this way, you will not be able to use your IPF's in conjunction with your high beams, they will only turn on when you have your lowbeams on. This is because the relay will only recieve power when the foglights are recieving power and that can only occur with your lowbeams on.

EDIT: After looking at the links you posted, I realized you want to use A Toyota Foglight switch, not THE foglight switch on the steering column stalk. In that case, that yellow wire would go to an ignition switched (+) source, then through the foglight switch you intend to use. Since you would be going thru the firewall in this case, the best spot is on the driver's side, inside the engine bay, to the right of the brake booster in the lower driver's side corner of the firewall.

 

[narwhal]

Thanks for the link Big Fish. On the relay mount, is that the screw that came with it? Did you just drill a hole there?

As for the wiring, I may not have been clear about the fog switch. I don't have factory fog lights. I would like to use a factory toyota switch mounted in the slots to the left of the steering column instead of using the IPF mouse style switch. I would prefer to only have the IPFs come on when I use the switch, and not have them tied in to the high beams.

It is interesting that you left the IPF switch in the engine bay though and simply use the IPFs in conjuction with the high beams.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

RE the relay mount, that is the screw that came with it, and yes, I had to drill a hole for the screw.

RE only having the IPF's come on with the high beams... If you think about it, what other time would you want them to come on? If you have the IPF's on, that means you want as much light as possible, so you'll probably have your high beams on too, rather than the lows. And following that same logic, why would you want the IPF's on without the headlights? Also, why would you want your brights on without the IPF's?

Having them setup that way will definitely ensure that you'll never go around driving with your high beams blinding oncoming traffic... and if someone comes along with their high beams on, it'll sure get their attention when you flash them!

 

[narwhal]

Do you have any pics of how the yellow wire taps into the high beam wire?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Sorry, I didn't take any photos of that part... You can use one of these...

Or you can strip some sheathing off the high beam wire and solder in the yellow wire. I used the wire tap at first, but ended up taking it out and soldering it for a more reliable connection.

 

[narwhal]

I found this installation on an FJ:

IPF 968 Full install guide - Page 2 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

One difference between the FJ and the 3rd gen Runner is the ignition fuse is 10A on the FJ and 7.5A on the 4Runner.

If I used one of these to connect to the IGN fuse like he did, would I re-use the 7.5A ignition fuse in the first slot and a 10A fuse in the slot with the wire (which would connect to the yellow wire from the IPF harness)?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I used one of those to draw power for my gauges... If I remember right, the old fuse goes in the slot that is in line with the blades (going into the factory fuse box), and the new fuse goes in the expansion slot.

Read the instructions man, that's why they include them.

 

[msoverland]

Hey BigFish,
Im getting ready to install some IPF 900 Dual beams on my 2000 limited and i have the factory fog switch. So i can tap that yellow wire feeding the fog lights and use the factory switch on the turn signal knob? so just mount the IPF switch under the hood and leave it in the ON position? will weather effect that switch at all?

thanks man

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

I tried wiring up my 968s today and ran into the same question about running the wires through the firewall. I read a few posts suggesting a coat hanger through the grommet on the drivers side and got nowhere with getting the plugs through there.

I like what BFAD did with his, but I have already mounted the IPF switch on my dash above the dimmer knob, so I don't think I can go that route now.

All that to ask, is there another grommet I can go through with the wires or do I need to enlarge the hole and then reseal it?

 

[blcktpgsr]

I tried wiring up my 968s today and ran into the same question about running the wires through the firewall. I read a few posts suggesting a coat hanger through the grommet on the drivers side and got nowhere with getting the plugs through there.

I like what BFAD did with his, but I have already mounted the IPF switch on my dash above the dimmer knob, so I don't think I can go that route now.

All that to ask, is there another grommet I can go through with the wires or do I need to enlarge the hole and then reseal it?

I must have poked thru that rubber grommet and fish my wirings thru it a million times and still have room for some. Depending on the size of wiring you use, stab thru the grommet and enlarge it enough for your wires to get thru it. Caution not to nip or damage the surrounding wires as you start poking.

I always pull all my wirings in the engine bay coming from under the dash. And yes coat hanger is your best buddy.

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

I must have poked thru that rubber grommet and fish my wirings thru it a million times and still have room for some. Depending on the size of wiring you use, stab thru the grommet and enlarge it enough for your wires to get thru it. Caution not to nip or damage the surrounding wires as you start poking.

I always pull all my wirings in the engine bay coming from under the dash. And yes coat hanger is your best buddy.

The other end of the wires is the plug for the relay, so I have to go from the engine bay side to the cab, unfortunately. The connectors on the wires weren't even close to making it through the hole made by the hanger. What do you recommend I use to enlarge the hole? Utility knife?

 

[blcktpgsr]

The other end of the wires is the plug for the relay, so I have to go from the engine bay side to the cab, unfortunately. The connectors on the wires weren't even close to making it through the hole made by the hanger. What do you recommend I use to enlarge the hole? Utility knife?

Ahh ok, is cutting and soldering the wires not an option since by the sounds of it, the length of the wires aren't long enough anyway? This way, you won't need to enlarge the hole any bigger than you need since there won't be any relay plugs to pass thru it, just the size of the wires.

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

Ahh ok, is cutting and soldering the wires not an option since by the sounds of it, the length of the wires aren't long enough anyway? This way, you won't need to enlarge the hole any bigger than you need since there won't be any relay plugs to pass thru it, just the size of the wires.

That may be the best option, actually. Hadn't thought about that, but the wire from the relay to the switch is waaaaaaaay too long, so cutting and soldering would remove some unnecessary length and allow me to get the wire through the coat hanger size hole.

I do have to wire my ditch lights and do my in cab winch control soon too, so do I poke new holes for those wires or enlarge the same hole this wire goes through?

 

[blcktpgsr]

That may be the best option, actually. Hadn't thought about that, but the wire from the relay to the switch is waaaaaaaay too long, so cutting and soldering would remove some unnecessary length and allow me to get the wire through the coat hanger size hole.

I do have to wire my ditch lights and do my in cab winch control soon too, so do I poke new holes for those wires or enlarge the same hole this wire goes through?

I've had to splice wires on numerous occassions and sometimes there's no way around it. Anytime an accessory comes pre-wired, often times you'll end up doing some splices because of the connectors, plugs, switch etc they come with.

Personally, if i had accessories coming from different locations like the ditch and winch controls you mentioned, i would bundle the wirings separate from each other just in the event you need to pull 'em out, you have the freedom to do so w/o touching what you don't need. The same goes when it comes to crossing those wires thru the firewall by way of the rubber grommet.

That's my 0.02 cents.

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

I've had to splice wires on numerous occassions and sometimes there's no way around it. Anytime an accessory comes pre-wired, often times you'll end up doing some splices because of the connectors, plugs, switch etc they come with.

Personally, if i had accessories coming from different locations like the ditch and winch controls you mentioned, i would bundle the wirings separate from each other just in the event you need to pull 'em out, you have the freedom to do so w/o touching what you don't need. The same goes when it comes to crossing those wires thru the firewall by way of the rubber grommet.

That's my 0.02 cents.

Thanks for all the help. You have an amazing 4Runner by the way.

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

I got everything wired up, but now I have a problem with the high beam wire I tapped into. When the headlights are on, everything is fine. When the headlights are off, the relay is rapidly being engaged/disengaged.

I'm guessing this is caused by the DRLs, but before I cut the black/yellow wire to disable them, I wanted to see if anybody else has run into this kind of problem.

 

[jeremyc74]

I got everything wired up, but now I have a problem with the high beam wire I tapped into. When the headlights are on, everything is fine. When the headlights are off, the relay is rapidly being engaged/disengaged.

I'm guessing this is caused by the DRLs, but before I cut the black/yellow wire to disable them, I wanted to see if anybody else has run into this kind of problem.

DRLs would be a logical guess. They operate at reduced voltage, so the relay coil flutters. If you're going to disable them anyway that should stop it.

 

[T4Rfirefighter]

DRLs would be a logical guess. They operate at reduced voltage, so the relay coil flutters. If you're going to disable them anyway that should stop it.

I'm not necessarily wanting to disable them, but to avoid running the lights on a constant 12V+ power source, I probably will disable them.