Ironman 4x4 Nitro Stage 2 Lift

Run Forrest Run

New member
I spent months reading and learning lift options & variables for my new 5th gen. This is a daily driver that will be on road 95% of the time. I knew I wanted a suspension vs spacer lift. On the short list was Wheelers 5100/T1/T13, Bilstein w/ OME 885/895E and Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro. I planned on SPC UCAs Budget for parts was @ $1800.

After a ton of research, I was ready to jump on the Ironman. I called to ask a few questions about spring options and Luke was quick to suggest I save my money and go with the Nitro kit. This was based solely on how little I will be off road and the conditions I am in on logging roads in the Northwest. Foam Cell Pro would have been overkill.
Luke suggested Performance springs & told me to expect 2.5” lift front and rear. At $1299 on sale with UCA and assembly, price was great.

Here’s The specs on my kit:

Front Coil Springs - TOYO55B, 0-110 lbs, 380mm, 669 lb/in, 17 mm
Rear Coil Springs - TOYO56B, 0-660 lbs, 395mm, 280 lb/in, 17 mm
12710GR Front Struts, Nitro Gas -
12682GRC Rear Shock Absorber - Nitro Gas -
UCA001FA - Front Pro Forge Upper Control Arms

Before measurements center hub to fender with a full tank:
DF 19.5”
PF 19.875”
DR 21.5”
PR 21.75”

I did have them add a 5mm (.2”) spacer beneath the DF coil seat for a .4” compensation for lean.

Kit came today and it took me 6 hours for a solo install. Ironman GX460 Facebook video was a great help. Everything went smooth and I’m extremely satisfied with the result. Here are my new measurements after a test drive and @ .5” settling up front:

DF 22.5” +3”
PF 22.75” +2.875”
DR 24” +2.5”
PR 24” +2.25”

Will be letting it settle, then plan on an alignment and some new shoes. At the moment Im very happy with the results & recommend it highly.

Update: Added images of before lift with Bridgestone 265’s and after with BFG KO2 285’s
 

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DAY 3 Update and Alignment:
I have about 50 road miles on the lift.
No additional settling noted after the first day measurements.

My opinion: The ride feels tight in a good way. Braking feels better, probably because of the reduced dive. Cornering feels sportier and more planted. Nice difference felt going over speed bumps- no second bounce like I felt with OEM.

Went to local shop assuming it should be simple with the new UCA‘a. I requested caster between 3.8-4.2. Tech worked diligently for 2.5 hours but it was obvious didn’t have experience with lifted Toyota’s. I should have asked about this before taking it in. Great guys and they were honest. End result is that all is in spec, but they couldn’t get Caster above 3.0 on drivers side and 2.8 on passenger. It drives great though. Think I will drive it for a few thousand miles then align again elsewhere when I get new shoes....if I can hold out that long.
 
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I ordered a stage 3 for our 2019 4runner. Really looking forward to it arriving.

Nice, looks like a few of us on here will be running these kits. So far all good reviews. Did you order the foam cells or nitro? I went with nitro because mine is a daily driver and I dont need a full offroad set up. Hope you used the code.
 
Nice, looks like a few of us on here will be running these kits. So far all good reviews. Did you order the foam cells or nitro? I went with nitro because mine is a daily driver and I dont need a full offroad set up. Hope you used the code.

Chris @ Ironman actually recommended the Nitros after we talked about how we use the 4Runner. So that is what I ordered!
 
Day Four update:
Went back and got a refund on yesterday’s alignment- Going to make some calls and find a pro to do it right this week.
Washed and detailed today, so it will definitely rain tonight in Eugene...
Took some measurements- no setting since day one. Also took frame to ground measurements. Very interesting to see that a 1.25”-1.5” rake measured from center hub to fender visually looks like a good rake. Measuring from ground to bottom of frame, I only have a .375” rake. So glad I didn’t go with a shorter spring/smaller lift in the rear.
Full Tank of gas, center hub to fender:
DF 22.5” +3”
PF 22.75” +2.875”
DR 24” +2.5”
PR 24” +2.25”

Frame to ground:
DF 16”
PF 16”
DR 16.375”
PR 16.375”

Center Skid Protector- 12.375”
 

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Found a local off road shop that dialed in my alignment this week- Caster is now at 4* and all else is in spec.

Installed BFG KO2 285/70R17 in load range C. Had some rubbing at full lock on incline, so removed front mud flap, pushed front fender liner forward and trimmed the bumper. Was a little nervous to do this...after some reading, was a simple job. Well worth the work to fit these tires. Clearance looks good now and the stance is exactly what I was wanting. Will report back after some more miles.
 

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Dope, glad u got ur tires to fit. I have ko2's too, same size. Hope I dont have to do more trimming when my kit gets here
 
Found a local off road shop that dialed in my alignment this week- Caster is now at 4* and all else is in spec.

Installed BFG KO2 285/70R17 in load range C. Had some rubbing at full lock on incline, so removed front mud flap, pushed front fender liner forward and trimmed the bumper. Was a little nervous to do this...after some reading, was a simple job. Well worth the work to fit these tires. Clearance looks good now and the stance is exactly what I was wanting. Will report back after some more miles.

Looks good.
Congrats.
 
Found a local off road shop that dialed in my alignment this week- Caster is now at 4* and all else is in spec.

Installed BFG KO2 285/70R17 in load range C. Had some rubbing at full lock on incline, [...]

So you still had back rubbing with a 4* Caster on 285s? I have Falken AT3W on 285s E with OEM UCAs and it makes me thinking if indeed the Ironman UCAs will perform... hmmm
 
So you still had back rubbing with a 4* Caster on 285s? I have Falken AT3W on 285s E with OEM UCAs and it makes me thinking if indeed the Ironman UCAs will perform... hmmm

There does seem to be different experiences about which tires require trimming, etc. I don’t know the UCA plays much of a role there though. I could have had caster increased beyond 4*, but wanted to stay closer to Toyota spec. Mud flaps were removed before installing tires because I have sliders with top plate to protect the body sides...and like the look without them.
Note that rubbing was on the drivers side front inside fender liner, not passenger. It did appear that my passenger fender liner was pushed back further from the factory. Perhaps there is an OEM range they come with?
I pushed back the drivers side about 1.25” and passenger about 1” to be safe. While the tires were off I went ahead and used the Dremel to take 3/4” off the lower bumper....to be safe and to avoid rubbing when off road and tire pushed up further into the wheel well.
Perhaps my fix was over the top, but I would rather fix it for good once than run the risk of destroying fender or bumper while off road when the wheel is stuffed up in the well.
 
Glad to hear that everything worked out for you in the end. Good to see some others getting the Ironman suspensions. Hands down I like these the best of all others I've had.

From now on when I modify / do suspension work, I think my new plan of attack will be to max the cams out for caster prior to getting my trucks aligned. All too often I feel like I have to over explain what I'm trying to accomplish with the techs (when I used to have SPC's they were a damn nightmare!) - OR I've had issues that a cam is a bit stuck and just takes some elbow grease to get in shape (which they won't take the extra time to do). My last experience was my wife's truck (the Ironman install) had a slightly frozen rear passenger side cam that was stuck and the techs were telling me I was out of adjust-ability (by two different national chain shops!). I had to crank it myself and take back to have the toe fixed... :uzi::flame:
 
There does seem to be different experiences about which tires require trimming, etc. I don’t know the UCA plays much of a role there though. I could have had caster increased beyond 4*, but wanted to stay closer to Toyota spec. Mud flaps were removed before installing tires because I have sliders with top plate to protect the body sides...and like the look without them.
Note that rubbing was on the drivers side front inside fender liner, not passenger. It did appear that my passenger fender liner was pushed back further from the factory. Perhaps there is an OEM range they come with?
I pushed back the drivers side about 1.25” and passenger about 1” to be safe. While the tires were off I went ahead and used the Dremel to take 3/4” off the lower bumper....to be safe and to avoid rubbing when off road and tire pushed up further into the wheel well.
Perhaps my fix was over the top, but I would rather fix it for good once than run the risk of destroying fender or bumper while off road when the wheel is stuffed up in the well.


Thanks
 
Have you noticed how the lift and larger tires effected your fuel mileage? I ask because this is the same setup we will be using

I haven’t driven enough yet to give an educated answer. 265 OEM Bridgestone were only 39 Lbs, the 285 BFG C loads are 51 Lbs, an inch larger and AT tread. I was close to going with Nitto Ridge Grapplers, but couldn't pass up KO2’s with white letters out at the same price. All I read from others on the forum tells me to expect a hit of 1-2 mpg on any 285- my gauge tells me I’m @ .5 lower so far. I’m very happy with the ride and they are much quieter than expected. Bottom line- They look so good, I’m willing to pay a little more at the pump. Best of luck with your build!
 
I just installed this kit but with the foam cells as Nitro we’re out of stock as were the top plates so I had to build the CO myself. Did you adjust the coilover at all or go with the 8.5” they come with pre-assembled. Mine is tall, which I like, but has a lot of bounce. I’m thinking I adjusted too high and will need to back them down.
 

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