Is anyone using a "Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader" for the front brake job?

Is anyone using a "Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader" for the front brake job?

I did a front brake job for my friend's 4Runner but it was a bit of pain without the proper piston spreading tool like the Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader. I used C-clamp but it was more challenging than necessary. I am thinking about buying a spreader like the one shown below:
lisn29100.jpg

Any experiences with this tool?
 

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I've always used a c-clamp and the old pad to push against the piston. It's much easier if you take the top off the master cylinder. You have to go slowly or you will squirt brake fluid out of the reservoir and make a mess.
 
I've always used a c-clamp and the old pad to push against the piston. It's much easier if you take the top off the master cylinder. You have to go slowly or you will squirt brake fluid out of the reservoir and make a mess.

Same here. But that is a nice looking tool.
 
I've always used Vise-Grip 11" Locking C-Clamps..........................
 

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i've also use c clamps. what i do is use the c-clamp to compress the piston while the caliper is bolted in instead of trying to handle it while its just loose.
 
I did a front brake job for my friend's 4Runner but it was a bit of pain without the proper piston spreading tool like the Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader. I used C-clamp but it was more challenging than necessary. I am thinking about buying a spreader like the one shown below:
View attachment 232827

Any experiences with this tool?
we use one like this,


https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-279-Brake-Caliper/dp/B0079GQKDE
works good.

though, the one you linked looks like it would be fine also.




I've always used a c-clamp and the old pad to push against the piston. It's much easier if you take the top off the master cylinder. You have to go slowly or you will squirt brake fluid out of the reservoir and make a mess.
taking the cap off wont make it any easier. but it will allow your brake fluid to absorb more water. leave the cap in place as much as possible.


the truly correct way to do it, is to open the bleeder, and force the excess fluid out there. I like to put a tube on it, and direct the old fluid into a container of some sort. we used a gallon jug with a hole drilled into the lid. the hose goes from the caliper bleeder, right into the cap, so there is never a mess.

pushing the fluid it back into the MC is bad. it forces any crud that may be in the system, back up through the ABS and master cylinder. I have seen many failures because of this.
 
I always used big channel lock pliers. No fancy tool is needed for our Toyota's or most Japanese manufacturers. Plus pliers you can use for other things if needed.

Some vehicle you have to screw the pistons back in, and in some other vehicles you have to have a OBD scanner to do it properly or else you will be buying new calipers.
 
we use one like this,


https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-279-Brake-Caliper/dp/B0079GQKDE
works good.

though, the one you linked looks like it would be fine also.





taking the cap off wont make it any easier. but it will allow your brake fluid to absorb more water. leave the cap in place as much as possible.


the truly correct way to do it, is to open the bleeder, and force the excess fluid out there. I like to put a tube on it, and direct the old fluid into a container of some sort. we used a gallon jug with a hole drilled into the lid. the hose goes from the caliper bleeder, right into the cap, so there is never a mess.

pushing the fluid it back into the MC is bad. it forces any crud that may be in the system, back up through the ABS and master cylinder. I have seen many failures because of this.

Agreed..

I always used a simple C Clamp (pre ABS) until a friend told me that forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS control module could have bad effects on it. Now I open the bleeder while clamping.

That Lisle does look like a high quality tool though..
 
I always used a simple C Clamp (pre ABS) until a friend told me that forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS control module could have bad effects on it. Now I open the bleeder while clamping.

Thank you! I did not know about this until your post. I guess I have been doing this incorrectly but have not encountered any issue thus far. But I will now open up the bleeder while pushing back the piston(s). I am planning to buy this tool since it is about $50 including shipping.
 

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