Is it OK to arc weld on the 07 T4R w/o disconnecting the Battery

jow

New member
Is it OK to arc weld on the 07 T4R w/o disconnecting the Battery and loose all my settings? I want to tack a front Grill Guard while it’s setup on the truck’s lower plate area and remove it for final welding, grinding and painting.

Gas welding/brazing tacks will be the next option, slower but possibly safer (except the slow heating danger). I have tacked on other older models trucks/etc but I doubt any had the electronics the 07 T4R SR5 has
 
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Why would u NOT want to disconnect the battery?
Was wondering the same thing then I saw this -
w/o disconnecting the Battery and loose all my settings?

I'm not sure how many things (zero point calibration for windows, radio station presets, and...?) get changed when you disconnect the battery but for me it's not enough to risk it as all the things that get reset with my battery can be reprogrammed in about 20 seconds at the first red light I come to.
 
Regardless of what you did on previous vehicles, the proper way to weld on a vehicle that is not stripped down is to disconnect the battery (this elminates the ground path for many circuits and also prevents the power possibly damaging the battery in some fashion if it was part of the circuit. The other thing would be to use a welding blanket or shield to protect components such as EVAP, Fuel Lines, Fuel Tanks, Air Lines, Rubber Components, Radiators, ect. when welding in their vicinity.

I would make sure to cover all the components such as the radiator, condensor, ect when welding in that area. I have seen an errant spark burn a hole in a radiator on a guy who was welding a baja bumper on his old Tacoma and he barely made it home.
 
Thanks! My peace of mind plan is to see if I can setup the Guard with extra time marks strong tacks off the T4R. Work until I get a fit with cardboard holes pattern since holes were drilled vs pre drilled (plus slots or larger holes vs exact w/n hurt). This will be more of a challenge but safer. The good part is only 6 tacks before the final welding. Setting the guard up in space w/o bolted support and seeing it in place is the real challenge. I need a dead 07 T4R as my friend. LOL
 
Always disconnect the battery first, especially with a arc welder. 220v. and unlimited amps being delivered, can send a surge through your electrical system.

It's not cheap to replace electrical components.
 
Fill your gas tank all the way up so it doesn't explode. There won't be enough oxygen in the tank for it to ignite. I would do that before I even consider the battery.
 
Fill your gas tank all the way up so it doesn't explode. There won't be enough oxygen in the tank for it to ignite. I would do that before I even consider the battery.

You know that's so funny you say that because so many people will be like, "OMG! Won't that make you're car go Kablooey like in Call of Duty!?"

Its not the gas that kills you... its the fumes sonny boy... hehe
 
I was able to get my Bumper guard setup and welded with wiggle room for finer adjustments later. I’ll take a break before grinding welds and adding flat black Rust Oleum paint.

1. It was slow going due to using up scraps vs purchasing the best metal for the design.

2. Tack welding off the T4R took more time but was worth “The Peace Of Mind”.

3. I discovered the plastic had been damaged and repaired with Etc that cracked before my purchase. The crack came from touching a padded post with added tire rubber.

4. I was able to hide most of the crack and it will be there until some major work is needed.

5. Do you feel the finished guard will take away from the T4R general appearance?

See the attachments:
 

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So, is this the "finished guard"?

preacher35-albums-parts-picture19520-t4rs-bumper-guard-5.jpg


IMHO, it looks like something out of Mad Max. So, yes, it does detract from the "general appearance" of your T4R. Maybe after a lift, wheels, tires as well as some finishing work (grinding/sanding/powder-coating) on the guard itself, it will blend better. OK, so I know you're going to think I'm a douche (but I would want someone to be honest with me) it actually looks like it was stolen from a soccer mom by a couple of backwoods Arkansas rednecks who have dreams of push-starting their 1954 Ford tractor. But to make you feel better, I do not even know how to weld, so there.
 
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I am going to assume that it will be sanded and powder-coated later, so I'll leave the Mad Max/Redneck reviews to the poster above. :fish:

But I don't understand how it is going to protect anything? It looks like a very thin version of a bullbar... I am going to assume you've cut the bumper at the top edge and built a support bracket/system on the other side to support the top side? Also if the intention was to make a very close fitting, but sturdy gaurd; why not use something like thick walled rectangular tubing and/or oval/squashed tubing as that would provide some more "beef" visually and rigidity wise?

Just over all curious in the direction you're going with this and your design intentions. :)
 
You can tell he didn't cut into the body and continue the top support.

But, he at least tried to follow the body lines for shaping that FINE PIECE OF WORK.
 
Thanks for your honest reviews! After hauling a load of firewood this evening, I'm double tired.

1. Dense foam rubber will be bonded between the flat ends but only flat black paint will coat the metal that will give a cushion between bumpers.

2. I will check into the certified T4R being sold with this Patch Job vs being brought up to standards as the new tires, brakes, plugs and other items at 43,00 mi needed to certify the truck (probably a non mechanical clause).


3. The truck is a good fit for all around use which is fishing, firewood, handyman work, conctruction work volunteering and taking trips, As Is!

4. I understand and respect it is more than a truck to many. I needed toughness vs looks.
 
Hey, Jow, for the record, I was only joking around with you regarding rednecks. My wife sometimes reminds me that my "humor" can be distasteful to others. Havingfun was correct when he said it's a FINE PIECE OF WORK. Like I stated before, I couldn't weld my way out of a paper bag. You value utility above anything else and I get that. But I also agree with BlackWorksInc in that when you have the coin, you should build a much beefier one from scratch that replaces the plastic facade.
 
If you're planning on running over saplings, the lower bar might prevent some scratches to your cladding, but it won't prevent all of them. And the upper bar isn't going to do anything. And those skinny bars and straps aren't going to accomplish anything when confronted with rocks or various hoofed hoofed and furry mammals.

I love DIY, but I don't think this piece is going to accomplish what you want, which I assume is to combine protection and a stock look. I'd build a beefy bumper that closely matches the lines of the cladding, and then I'd color match it.
 
If you're planning on running over saplings, the lower bar might prevent some scratches to your cladding, but it won't prevent all of them. And the upper bar isn't going to do anything. And those skinny bars and straps aren't going to accomplish anything when confronted with rocks or various hoofed hoofed and furry mammals.

I love DIY, but I don't think this piece is going to accomplish what you want, which I assume is to combine protection and a stock look. I'd build a beefy bumper that closely matches the lines of the cladding, and then I'd color match it.

I agree with KidVernicious, What exactly are you trying to accomplish with this project? If its just a sort of reinforced front bumper skin/protector then it should be pretty okay (I would add supports for the top that tie to the frame though.)

If you want to make a reinforcement for your bumper that retains the stock bumper cladding, close to stock look, and is far more durable; then you should consider redesigning what you have. Not trying to shoot you down, just unsure of what direction you're going in.
 
Here is that clause I predicted. If you know different, please let me know. As of now I will live with the light guard. I just want to feel my stop in my car-port and keep my garage functional as a shop with the truck inside with not an inch to spare (due to the work bench and passage). I could also beat that body work or build a guard to push a tank but need some peace of mind and rest now. Age is catching up with my projects that started about 1960. LOL.

Per the Service Managers: “Being a plastic bumper that repair was done instead of a complete replacement which is allowed for a certified vehicle. Unfortunately the certified warranty only covers mechanical parts not cosmetic, so it would not be covered under the certified warranty.”
 

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