Is ravenol 5w-30 safe in my 09 4Runner

[AuSeeker]

And the amazing Toyota elixir...68th

68. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Spring 2016.

The weight recommended in my owner's manual for my V8 is 5w30 and is way down the list for Toyota oil, but it is conventional, no listing for synthetic.

227. 5W30 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN conventional = 68,069 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

 

[Bleu62]

Flesheater, that was one thorough breakdown of the oil w the least breakdown. IÂ’ve been wanting to try AMSoil for a while and now I will, after my Ravenol supply runs dry. Thanks again. IÂ’m glad I have this stuff now. And to think I was worried haha

 

[Flesh Eater]

Flesheater, that was one thorough breakdown of the oil w the least breakdown. IÂ’ve been wanting to try AMSoil for a while and now I will, after my Ravenol supply runs dry. Thanks again. IÂ’m glad I have this stuff now. And to think I was worried haha

I am sorry, but I just realized I posted the 0w-30 specs. Here are the 5w-30 specs:

55. 5W30 Ravenol “FO”, API SN, synthetic = 105,606 psi
This oil was made in Germany, and it was tested late 2019.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
molt = TBD

Still “decent” but not as amazing.

I run Signature series Amsoil in my Toyota because when it runs, it runs. Like 12 hours a day for 2-3 days in a row, and then a full week of non-stop running as it’s a trip vehicle. Last one we did 4,250 miles in a week and some where over 10,000’ elevation up to around 13,500’ in 4lo.

I also replace the oil once a year as this 4Runner sits A LOT. Now, I know firebirdguy says I don’t have to, but I’m going with Amsoil recommendation on that one. It will take me quite a while to put 25,000 miles on a single oil change in it.

If you have a lot of vehicles, Amsoil can end up being cheaper as they offer preferred customer benefits to anyone who spends $500+ a year for free. I think my quarts of Signature are around $13 a qt. which isn’t bad considering the intervals.

 

[djpope09]

Thanks for the link to 540 Rat's blog!!

I looked high and low for the ranking for the motor oil I use to no avail, so I then went back to the top because I skipped the first few knowing full well the oil I use wouldn't be in the top 10, imagine my surprise that the oil I use was NUMBER 1 !!!!!!

I never would have thought that the new Quakerstate Full Synthetic would be rank close to the top, much less number 1 .

I buy Quakerstate when I buy oil from Walmart because it's almost always the cheapest full synthetic. It's kind of funny to see it ranked as the best oil when others like Amsoil and Mobil 1 are so expensive. I suppose Amsoil makes up for the price with super long oil change intervals though.

 

[firebirdguy]

I gave enough reasons above. Get over it.

Amsoil offers more protection than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 religious change intervals and engine trouble that Amsoil fixed. Why do you think I don’t like Mobil 1?

Signature is ranked #2 in protection, Mobil1 is #17. So I will probably just stick with Signature and do the 25,000 mile intervals.

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

get over it? LOL! sorry for asking a simple question & mentioning some facts regarding oil & change intervals. youre free to use & do what you want, sounds like you put on a lot of miles in a short time. i prefer to follow the manufacturers fluid change intervals since, they made the vehicle & all.

never had a single issue using mobil1 & neither have millions of other users.

ive seen that oil wear test many times, but theres a lot more to oil than just one guys controlled wear test. but reading some of his intro & his response to a guy asking about breaking in a flat tappet cam is kinda comical & rather narcissistic, funny how he insults other people that he doesnt agree with & claims they dont know what they are talking about... the engineers that designed & built these engines specifically state the proper cam/lifter break in procedure as well as all the machine shops, professional engine builders & the companies who make aftermarket cams & engine parts that all follow the same basic steps, but mr 540rat says all that is nonsense. i quite reading after that...

 

[AuSeeker]

I buy Quakerstate when I buy oil from Walmart because it's almost always the cheapest full synthetic. It's kind of funny to see it ranked as the best oil when others like Amsoil and Mobil 1 are so expensive. I suppose Amsoil makes up for the price with super long oil change intervals though.

The new Quakerstate Full Synthetic replaced their Ultimate Durability Synthetic which is what I used to buy and I was upset because that's what I wanted, but I begrudgingly started using the new synthetic thinking it probably wasn't as good and Quakerstate was just trying to make more money on a lesser oil, but I have been happy with it, it's cleaner when I do an oil change than the old synthetic was and now I as happy as pig in mud knowing it way surpasses not only the old synthetic but it seems all other brands as well!!!

 

[Flyer]

Group IV and V like Amsoil Signature and Redline are what I consider full synthetic. Mobil-1 has base stocks (at least a total of 4 base stocks and 10-20 additives) that are group III and while it is good oil, it is not full synthetic to me. Maybe it is outside of Germany...not sure. Some group III base stock oils can be better than the higher syn oils but I am not yet sure if M1 is one of them. Maybe group III is now considered full synthetic, in which case the definition appears to have changed, unless I misunderstood the definition years ago.

 

[firebirdguy]

i was replying to the "not real synthetic" but that is different than full synthetic...

from what ive read over the years mobil1 is a combination of group 3 & group 4 base stocks, & so are many other name brands. most all oils have 10-20 additives to make up their additive packs, look at UOA's of any brand including amsoil, they all have a bunch of the same additives just in different PPM.

the definition of synthetic did change back in the 90's due to the group 3 oils being considered synthetic since they are "synthesized" & more refined in a lab to create cleaner & uniform molecules vs standard crude oil group 1 & 2. while technically they are not a true group 4 or 5, by todays standards group 3 is called synthetic & many of the group 3 oils are excellent quality but priced a lot cheaper than the 4 & 5 groups. & lots of conventional brands are actually blends now using some percentage of group 3 base. as long as its API rated it meets the basic requirements & is a quality oil, if someone wants to pay more for certain brands or change it way before needed, thats totally their choice.

Base Oil Groups Explained

 

[Bleu62]

Hey, OP here, Since I have seen some awesome replies from some oil gurus here I have to ask. Has anyone looked at Kirklands oil (Costco). There Kirkland products are typically incredible. The cheapo golfballs are preferred over the ProV1 and their “bourbon” is always sold out. I put quotes on that since I’m from TN and know that Kentuckians will throw a fit if anyone outside of Bourbon county mentions that word.
Back to my point. Is this stuff legit or stay away?
https://youtu.be/l9il_piyuT8

 

[T4R2014]

German oil? In a Japanese engine? Are you trying to start a world war? No way dude. Totally unsafe.