Is There a Master Fuse for Stereo, Clock, Cig, Etc?

[GVL]

I just installed some flood lights and all was working fine until I tried to swap the supplied switch with a different one. I hooked it all up and reconnected the battery but no floods working and now my clock, stereo and cigarette lighter are not working. I tapped into the cigarette lighter wire for the switch power so thinking I screwed that up somehow, but it was working so im not sure.

This flood light project has been a major PITA and almost ready to bail out on it, but I need the other stuff to work. Is there a master fuse somewhere that could blow the clock, stereo and cigarette lighter all at once or should I be looking for individual fuses for each of these? Sorry, I know this description is bad, but if anyone knows what I'm talking about I would love some advice - very frustrated, thanks.

 

[A.Wilson013]

See TheDurk's post. I was wrong.

 

[TheDurk]

15A fuse labeled "DOME" should be the one you're looking for. It's under the hood.

Nope. It's your ACC fuse by driver's knee. The radio and the clock both need both the ACC circuit AND the DOME circuit to function. The DOME circuit runs the clock, but the ACC circuit is what lights up the numbers. Similar for the radio. But the cigarette lighter runs only on the ACC circuit.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/047clc.pdf

 

[A.Wilson013]

Nope. It's your ACC fuse by driver's knee. The radio and the clock both need both the ACC circuit AND the DOME circuit to function. The DOME circuit runs the clock, but the ACC circuit is what lights up the numbers. Similar for the radio. But the cigarette lighter runs only on the ACC circuit.

That's good info. FWIW, my FSM shows
"15A ACC
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Multiplex Communication System
Power Outlet
Power Window (Rear), Rear Wiper and Washer
Radio and Player
Rear Window Defogger and Mirror Heater
Remote Control Mirror
Shift Lock
Theft Deterrent
Wireless Door Lock Control"

and ...

"15A DOME
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player"

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[TheDurk]

That's good info. FWIW, my FSM shows
"15A ACC
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Multiplex Communication System
Power Outlet
Power Window (Rear), Rear Wiper and Washer
Radio and Player
Rear Window Defogger and Mirror Heater
Remote Control Mirror
Shift Lock
Theft Deterrent
Wireless Door Lock Control"

and ...

"15A DOME
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player"

Thanks for clearing that up!

No problem. I linked the factory EWD. For electrical EWD>>>FSM.

 

[nc-grayson]

I wish I knew how to read my EWD

I wish I had paid attention in physics

 

[IBallEngineer]

I wish I knew how to read my EWD

I wish I had paid attention in physics

https://www.google.com/search?q=eas...MvMDMAhVG8WMKHbL6DHwQsAQIggE&biw=1920&bih=949

My first year in trade school my first instructor recommended a basic physics book. It was the size of your Galaxy note, and was at most 100 pages. Very easy to read, and reference. This was 1981 and it was an old book then, probably written in the 40's or 50's. Wish I still had it. But you can buy a book and read up, no you won't be a quantum physics guru in 2 weeks, but you can learn a lot. I'm still learning 35 years on... Of course it helps to have old guys like [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] around to teach me some things.

 

[nc-grayson]

https://www.google.com/search?q=eas...MvMDMAhVG8WMKHbL6DHwQsAQIggE&biw=1920&bih=949

My first year in trade school my first instructor recommended a basic physics book. It was the size of your Galaxy note, and was at most 100 pages. Very easy to read, and reference. This was 1981 and it was an old book then, probably written in the 40's or 50's. Wish I still had it. But you can buy a book and read up, no you won't be a quantum physics guru in 2 weeks, but you can learn a lot. I'm still learning 35 years on... Of course it helps to have old guys like [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] around to teach me some things.

I'm a hoarder so I still have all of my college textbooks, physics 101 being one of them. I took the class, I just didn't take advantage of it. I'll have to pull it out of the storage unit and keep it around. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[TheDurk]

I'm a hoarder so I still have all of my college textbooks, physics 101 being one of them. I took the class, I just didn't take advantage of it. I'll have to pull it out of the storage unit and keep it around. Thanks for the reminder!

If you want to understand enough to work on cars, a little time spent on this website pays huge rewards:

Basic Car Audio Electronics

Then this explains the arcane symbols on the Toyota EWD's:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/howtouse/howtouse.pdf

It's really not all that hard to learn.

Old guys like me had an advantage growing up a nerd/geek with only five channels on the TV and no video games. We worked on our go-carts and mini-bikes in the warm weather and took apart TV's and radios in the winter to build electronic stuff using diagrams in magazines. The physics courses came later but by then we knew all that stuff. I have to keep learning, though, to try and keep up with youngin's like [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]. MAF sensors, A/F sensors, computer-controlled timing--they keep inventing new stuff.

Sometimes I miss mechanical dizzies and carburetors. At least I have my 1966 Farmall tractor (still has the carb and dizzie but I put in retrofit electronic ignition. No effin' points. I don't miss those.)

 

[infamousRNR]

If you want to understand enough to work on cars, a little time spent on this website pays huge rewards:

Basic Car Audio Electronics

Then this explains the arcane symbols on the Toyota EWD's:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/howtouse/howtouse.pdf

It's really not all that hard to learn.

Ol.)

^^^^^^^

Love this guy:cheer2:

 

[IBallEngineer]

IBallEngineer[/MENTION]. MAF sensors, A/F sensors, computer-controlled timing--they keep inventing new stuff.

Sometimes I miss mechanical dizzies and carburetors. At least I have my 1966 Farmall tractor (still has the carb and dizzie but I put in retrofit electronic ignition. No effin' points. I don't miss those.)

Yeah, yaw sensors, torque sensors in the steering column, 360 degree camera views for lane departure and collision avoidance. It's enough to make me feel like a dumbass. And... I was filing points in 1981, yes I was.

 

[GVL]

Nope. It's your ACC fuse by driver's knee. The radio and the clock both need both the ACC circuit AND the DOME circuit to function. The DOME circuit runs the clock, but the ACC circuit is what lights up the numbers. Similar for the radio. But the cigarette lighter runs only on the ACC circuit.

You were right of course, the 5-pole switch I was trying to use just kept blowing that ACC fuse so had to go back to the cheap supplied switch, but I'll look for that same switch in a 3-pole version. Thank you guys again for the input - I can now get the rig back up on the mountain where it belongs.

 

[TheDurk]

Nope. It's your ACC fuse by driver's knee. The radio and the clock both need both the ACC circuit AND the DOME circuit to function. The DOME circuit runs the clock, but the ACC circuit is what lights up the numbers. Similar for the radio. But the cigarette lighter runs only on the ACC circuit.

You were right of course, the 5-pole switch I was trying to use just kept blowing that ACC fuse so had to go back to the cheap supplied switch, but I'll look for that same switch in a 3-pole version. Thank you guys again for the input - I can now get the rig back up on the mountain where it belongs.

OK, but it's not blowing the fuse because it's 5-pole. Either it's defective, or you're wiring it wrong. If it will work on a 3-pole, it will work on a 5-pole.

Are you sure you mean 5-pole and not 5-throw? (Comment above still applies.)

 

[GVL]

OK, but it's not blowing the fuse because it's 5-pole. Either it's defective, or you're wiring it wrong. If it will work on a 3-pole, it will work on a 5-pole.

Are you sure you mean 5-pole and not 5-throw? (Comment above still applies.)

I had some help and it probably wasn't explained very well, but by 5-pole I meant the toggle I wanted to use had 5 tabs coming out the back. I don't think the switch was blowing the fuse now that you say that, I think the way I tapped into the cig lighter was blowing it so we cut out the part that would kill the lights without the key in and kept the flood lights independent of the vehicles electrical system - just have to be careful not to leave the lights on.

For some reason the switch (5 tab/pole?) would not work with the way we set it up (could just be a bad switch) so had to go back to the supplied switch which just has tabs for the 3 harness wires (blue, black red) and it works, but it's just a cheap looking switch so I'll still change it.

 

[TheDurk]

I had some help and it probably wasn't explained very well, but by 5-pole I meant the toggle I wanted to use had 5 tabs coming out the back. I don't think the switch was blowing the fuse now that you say that, I think the way I tapped into the cig lighter was blowing it so we cut out the part that would kill the lights without the key in and kept the flood lights independent of the vehicles electrical system - just have to be careful not to leave the lights on.

For some reason the switch (5 tab/pole?) would not work with the way we set it up (could just be a bad switch) so had to go back to the supplied switch which just has tabs for the 3 harness wires (blue, black red) and it works, but it's just a cheap looking switch so I'll still change it.

Yeah, you had me confused. Pole is a technical term meaning the number of single switches operating together by the same toggle in the switch assembly. Not what you have. Probably two tabs are for the indicator light and three for the switch. I was going to say we could probably figure out how to make it work, but if you don't like it, it's not worth it.

 

[GVL]

Yeah, you had me confused. Pole is a technical term meaning the number of single switches operating together by the same toggle in the switch assembly. Not what you have. Probably two tabs are for the indicator light and three for the switch. I was going to say we could probably figure out how to make it work, but if you don't like it, it's not worth it.

Actually I love the switch and the lights (the Rigids are way better than the lights I got on Amazon) and I painstakingly cut a rectangle in the dash plate cover and it fits perfect, but no matter how I seem to attach the 3 wires to this switch switch light stays bright on (only supposed to light when toggle is on) or no power at all. From what I read I should only need the 3 tabs on the left?

My optimistic side is saying just buy the same switch in a 3 tab version but something is telling me that might not make a difference, although it is working fine with the little 3 tabs switch that came with the harness.

 

[TheDurk]

Gotchya. That should wire up like this:

I'd try using JUST the 2 and 3 terminals which are all you need to make the lights work. All the rest is for the internal switch illumination--one soft to come on with dash lights and a stronger one for when the switch is engaged. There is no possible way you can blow a fuse with just 2 and 3 if you attach the wires correctly, even if the switch is defective.

One wire is a 12V source and goes to the #2 Terminal and the light relay coil goes to #3. Don't get it backwards or you could blow fuses when you wire up the illumination. My bet is this is what happened.

Get that to work, and then the illumination should be easy, if it's not backwards.

By the way, that switch is a single-throw, single-pole.

 

[GVL]

Gotchya. That should wire up like this:


I'd try using JUST the 2 and 3 terminals which are all you need to make the lights work. All the rest is for the internal switch illumination--one soft to come on with dash lights and a stronger one for when the switch is engaged. There is no possible way you can blow a fuse with just 2 and 3 if you attach the wires correctly, even if the switch is defective.

One wire is a 12V source and goes to the #2 Terminal and the light relay coil goes to #3. Don't get it backwards or you could blow fuses when you wire up the illumination. My bet is this is what happened.

Get that to work, and then the illumination should be easy, if it's not backwards.

By the way, that switch is a single-throw, single-pole.

Alright, I finally got back and gave it a try with just the 2 wires and it worked!!! Thank You. So the switch does not need to be grounded since it doesn't light at all? If not, should I cap the ground wire or is it OK to just tuck it away as is?

Appreciate the help.

 

[TheDurk]

Alright, I finally got back and gave it a try with just the 2 wires and it worked!!! Thank You. So the switch does not need to be grounded since it doesn't light at all? If not, should I cap the ground wire or is it OK to just tuck it away as is?

Appreciate the help.

As it's a ground wire, it really doesn't matter what you do with it. I'd just cut it back enough to remove the exposed copper, which makes people nervous.

Do you want the switch to light up? I'm sure we can make it do that. Then we'd need the ground wire. Otherwise it doesn't do anything.

 

[GVL]

As it's a ground wire, it really doesn't matter what you do with it. I'd just cut it back enough to remove the exposed copper, which makes people nervous.

Do you want the switch to light up? I'm sure we can make it do that. Then we'd need the ground wire. Otherwise it doesn't do anything.

Since it's working I'm hesitant to mess with it, but without any light at all I'm going to be constantly checking it since I tend to knock those switches getting in and out and don't want to accidentally have those left on when I leave the vehicle so I would really like to get the switch to illuminate when they are on at least. I can live without them turning off when the key is removed if that's what is creating problems. I'll grab some spare fuses today just in case ....