ISSUE: Constant Power to Outlets

Kilo_

New member
Hello friends,

Yesterday I completed the full-time 115v/12v mod after following the guide found on Toyota 4Runner Constant Full Time 115V Power Outlet Mod

The issue I am having is the guide requires you to cut the Yellow-Red stripe wire that goes to pin #6 on the 115v switch. After cutting the wire and connecting the jumpers according to the instructions, I now have an issue of other functions not working when the ignition is on.

Currently "Off" when engine is running: Turn signals don't function, climate control doesn't power on, Climate control display doesn't turn on, rear view mirror doesn't power on.

It's as if all the accessories no longer function properly but the outlets function with ignition on/off and the radio turns on when ignition is on.

Any thoughts/Suggestions?


Thanks in advance,

Kris
 
Register to hide this ad
Did you confirm all the fuses for the associated items are still intact? Perhaps you shorted some fuses in your pursuit?
 
Did you confirm all the fuses for the associated items are still intact? Perhaps you shorted some fuses in your pursuit?

That was my first thought but all fuses checked out fine. Really curious if anyone else has down the full-time power modification and the steps they took to accomplish it... I'll have to revert back to the original setup until I can figure this out.
 
You have a lot of important things not working… any chance you damaged anything in the fuse block / power distributions areas? Many seem unrelated to this circuit.

This modification has you doing some sketchy things in a very sensitive area of the car… I have my own methodology when doing work to OEM electrical system, and I generally try and avoided making changes at or upstream of factory circuit protection.
 
Yeah it seemed pretty sketch considering the outcome but the source seemed credible. Was definitely user error on my part.

I took some time last night to put everything back to stock. Once back to stock configuration I checked everything that hadn't been working... it still wasn't working. After going back through the fuses, for the second time, I found that my IG1 15A fuse was blown. Don't know how the hell I missed it.

I re-did the modification with the fuse replaced, everything works perfectly now.
 
Last edited:
Yeah it seemed pretty sketch considering the outcome but the source seemed credible. Was definitely user error on my part.

I took some time last night to put everything back to stock. Once back to stock configuration I checked everything that hadn't been working... it still wasn't working. After going back through the fuses, for the second time, I found that my IG1 15A fuse was blown. Don't know how the hell I missed it.

I re-did the modification with the fuse replaced, everything works perfectly now.

So I'm guessing you originally did the modification without disconnecting the battery?

The battery should always be disconnected when doing most all electrical work that involves wire cutting/splicing/disconnecting, etc., failure to do so risk frying ECUs and other very expensive components.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top